Floyd Rose -- returning flat or sharp

[Spaced Out Ace]

So I just got an Ltd M-1 Custom 87 Series with a Floyd Rose 1000. Seems decent enough, though I am experiencing one issue. When I dive, it returns flat, and vice versa when I pull the bar up to raise the pitch. It seems to do so by the same amount. I've eyeballed it, but it seems to be that the high E side of the bridge is slightly closer to the body (perhaps 1/32"). Reading online (mostly a few threads on Reddit), it seems like this might be the issue.

This is my second guitar with a Floyd Rose, though the one I had over 15 years ago doesn't really count as I didn't use it for divebombs, raising the pitch, etc. Can anyone here with Floyd Rose expertise let me know if this is possibly the issue?

Just to note, I haven't set it up properly yet, as I am getting some stuff from FU Tone to upgrade the block, etc.

Also, second note, I realize ethat you watn to adjust the height of the bridge with the tension from the springs/strings off so you don't wear out the knife edge or create an indentation in the post.

 

[Frodebro]

Usually this is caused by a string binding somewhere. I'm assuming this guitar has a locking nut and bridge?

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

Usually this is caused by a string binding somewhere. I'm assuming this guitar has a locking nut and bridge?

Floyd Rose, so yep, locking nut and bridge. I will check when I dismantle everything and put some new strings on (the fretboard is probably going to get two coats of oil) that the bar is bringing the strings down far enough on the back end of the nut.

 

[Warmart]

Being lower on the high E side is normal. Is the trem level from top to bottom?

 

[PLX]

The 1000 is made in South Korea with inferior steel, despite what they tell you. The metal at the fulcrum points cut into each other (posts/fulcrum) and that's what causes tuning instability.

Personally, I'll only use Schaller (German made) Floyds.

ymmv

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

Being lower on the high E side is normal. Is the trem level from top to bottom?

The bridge appears even/level from the post side to the fine tuner side of bridge. I plan to take things apart, but want to determine the cause so that when I set everything back up, the tuning issue is corrected.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

The 1000 is made in South Korea with inferior steel, despite what they tell you. The metal at the fulcrum points cut into each other (posts/fulcrum) and that's what causes tuning instability.

Personally, I'll only use Schaller (German made) Floyds.

ymmv

Fair. If I find that they aren't cutting it, I'll look at either an original or a Schaller. I do kind of wish I could find a Lockmeister in the USA (I don't think the stuff listed on Reverb is actually a Lockmeister). Mainly because the bridge and nuts have more radius options.

 

[Eagle]

The 1000 is made in South Korea with inferior steel, despite what they tell you. The metal at the fulcrum points cut into each other (posts/fulcrum) and that's what causes tuning instability.

Personally, I'll only use Schaller (German made) Floyds.

ymmv

The Gotoh 1996 is better.
But the newer 1000 is better than it was and can easily be made to work as well as the German version. First make sure it doesn’t foul on anything, even the slightest touch. Then lube the knife edges with chapstick or something that heavy. If you have the rest right and there is no damage to the contact points that will fix it.

 

[Eagle]

Fair. If I find that they aren't cutting it, I'll look at either an original or a Schaller. I do kind of wish I could find a Lockmeister in the USA (I don't think the stuff listed on Reverb is actually a Lockmeister). Mainly because the bridge and nuts have more radius options.

They are identical to the Floyd rose in everything but branding.. The nut is literally the same one.

 

[Warmart]

The bridge appears even/level from the post side to the fine tuner side of bridge. I plan to take things apart, but want to determine the cause so that when I set everything back up, the tuning issue is corrected.

Another thing I forgot is to ask if you changed the strings and stretched them well before locking down the nut?

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

I have not replaced anything since I got the guitar. I am waiting on stuff from FU Tone and Amazon so I can have the parts to set everything up (ie, shim nut and saddles if needed, replace the block, intonate, adjust the neck and bridge height string action, etc).

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

They are identical to the Floyd rose in everything but branding.. The nut is literally the same one.

The Lockmeister versus the regular bridge that Schaller offers has various radiuses for the bridge and nut, whereas the regular double locking bridge does not.

 

[Eagle]

The Lockmeister versus the regular bridge that Schaller offers has various radiuses for the bridge and nut, whereas the regular double locking bridge does not.

The Lockmiester is a Floyd Rose .

 

[Eagle]

I have not replaced anything since I got the guitar. I am waiting on stuff from FU Tone and Amazon so I can have the parts to set everything up (ie, shim nut and saddles if needed, replace the block, intonate, adjust the neck and bridge height string action, etc).

What do you think FU stuff is going to do?
A bigger block is not better just different. It reflects more of the energy back into the string at the expense of interaction with the body. This is only useful if you have dead spots caused by the resonant frequency of the body.. You don’t see high mass hardware to “ improve “ tone anymore because it doesn’t.

 

[Eagle]

Also having the bridge slightly lower on the treble side is necessary to set the action. It isn’t your problem. If you do what I suggested it will work. I have fitted hundreds of Floyd’s over the years and this is a common problem.
It is even mentioned on the Ibanez Rules website regarding the original Edge.
Schaller brought out the Lockmiester when the FR patents ran out. The other Schaller Floyd came out in 88 to get around the exclusive rights deal Kramer had with Floyd. It was designed to be used OEM by other companies for a licensing fee of $35 per bridge . It has a zinc baseplate that the company name could easily be applied to. It has the exact same saddles ,block , arm, and nut as the OFR. The new lockmiester is identical.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

The Lockmiester is a Floyd Rose .

I'm aware, but the Lockmeister is different from the other Floyd Rose they offer.

Schaller Tremolo | 1302

Schaller Tremolo – the classic with zinc cast baseplate Our long-term experience with the production of Double locking tremolos has gone into the development of this identical tremolo. Exchangeable knife edges made of hardened steel and cast steel saddle…

schaller.info

LockMeister® 6 | 1301

Schaller LockMeister® 6 Tremolo – beyond your expectations Since its debut in 2012, the Schaller LockMeister® became the most advanced locking tremolo: 100 % Made in Germany – designed, engineered, and manufactured.…

schaller.info

 

[Eagle]

I'm aware, but the Lockmeister is different from the other Floyd Rose they offer.

Schaller Tremolo | 1302

Schaller Tremolo – the classic with zinc cast baseplate Our long-term experience with the production of Double locking tremolos has gone into the development of this identical tremolo. Exchangeable knife edges made of hardened steel and cast steel saddle…

schaller.info

LockMeister® 6 | 1301

Schaller LockMeister® 6 Tremolo – beyond your expectations Since its debut in 2012, the Schaller LockMeister® became the most advanced locking tremolo: 100 % Made in Germany – designed, engineered, and manufactured.…

schaller.info

They make the original Floyd Rose as well and that is the one it is identical too. The old Schaller Floyd is the OEM one I mentioned above .

 

[Eagle]

The Schaller unit was made to fit brand names in the window of the die. This is an 88 OEM Schaller Floyd.

The Lockmiester/ Original Floyd is far better and the patent is up so don't get the old Schaller unless Your guitar is recess routed for a copy of it.
If you have the 1000 it can easily be made to perform and feel identical to the German one.
The other point is the Gotoh 1996 is now a direct swap on to the original Floyd studs and has one open knife edge which helps with uneven post hight and/or imperfect post width.

You don't need either though.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

I added some chapstick as best as I could for now and hopefully won't need to do that often. Kind of a pain to take it all down, pit it on, then set everything back up.

What I noticed were some fine lines (3-4) on the posts and this is likely some of the cause. I looked at the knife edges and they seemed fine, but what do I know.

I also evened out the height on both sides (this is generally what I prefer on all of my guitars anyways), and with the chapstick, seems to return to pitch better.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

They make the original Floyd Rose as well and that is the one it is identical too. The old Schaller Floyd is the OEM one I mentioned above .

The Schaller unit was made to fit brand names in the window of the die. This is an 88 OEM Schaller Floyd.
View attachment 19998

The Lockmiester/ Original Floyd is far better and the patent is up so don't get the old Schaller unless Your guitar is recess routed for a copy of it.
If you have the 1000 it can easily be made to perform and feel identical to the German one.
The other point is the Gotoh 1996 is now a direct swap on to the original Floyd studs and has one open knife edge which helps with uneven post hight and/or imperfect post width.
View attachment 19999
You don't need either though.

The Lockmeister seems to be different from the other Floyd bridge they offer. No plates to replace and they offer the Lockmeister in several nut and bridge radiuses to avoid needing shims.