Fractal Talk

The amount of tweaking time has dwindled considerably in the last 4 years, that can't be overstated, really.
Honestly, I don't think it can be overstated how much better the AxeIII is compared to AxeII. I had the AxeII a couple of times, and could never dial it in to where I was happy. AxeIII. It really is as simple as just using the authentic panel for amps, choosing an IR, and dialing in some effects.
 
Still not 100% :LOL:
I can compromise if needed. Even after buying the Axe-Fx 3 I kept the FM3 for a long time because it was such a convenient "throw it in a bag and go" rig.

For me the biggest failing of the FM3 is its mere 3 footswitches. A 4th footswitch would have made a big difference in how easy it is to use as that would be 8 actions total on one layout, which also pairs well with 4 channels in each block, 4 scenes often being enough for your common tones etc. Now you need to augment it with whatever or use hold functions to make up for the 4th switch.

Axe-Fx 3's failing is that the FC controllers are so expensive. MIDI of course works, but it's definitely a worse user experience compared to using the FC6 or 12.

FM9 is pretty much right. I have no interest in trading my Axe-Fx 3 rig for that, but FM9 definitely checks most boxes for me.
 
Honestly, I don't think it can be overstated how much better the AxeIII is compared to AxeII. I had the AxeII a couple of times, and could never dial it in to where I was happy. AxeIII. It really is as simple as just using the authentic panel for amps, choosing an IR, and dialing in some effects.
I was already happy with the tones I was getting out of the Axe-Fx 2 back in the day, but the Axe-Fx 3 is definitely easier to work with when Axe-Edit is not an option. I do miss the dedicated buttons for some of the setup menus though!

I think a lot of Fractal's effects have a good starting point sound where you might want to adjust mix etc a bit but not do any drastic changes to tailor them. I still hope they someday make a "simplified" view that has just the most important parameters because some of them require having the manual open to understand as there's a lot of stuff.

Most of my presets look something like this:

1688848474116.png


As Fractals modeling has improved, there's less and less need to do anything drastic to the sound so I rarely throw in e.g an EQ block.

The only advanced amp block feature I really use is the "Gain enhancer" in the output section. When using headphones it can help it respond a bit more like you are playing a loud amp. Just a bit goes a long way, Leon Todd has a good video on this feature somewhere.

The IR player is there for headphones correction but it's not really much better than just using the global EQ parametric or graphic EQ with Auto-EQ correction. I use it more as a "I have the spare CPU" thing.
 
For me the biggest failing of the FM3 is its mere 3 footswitches.
I don't understand what's so hard about using the layout FS at some point during a song to simply switch to a different layout, that gives you 3 other functions for those 3 switches.

I don't own an FM3, but I think from reading how the switches operate, you can set one switch on a hold function to toggle back and forth between 2 layouts, effectively giving you 6 switches total. Or, if you wanted to set that long-press to advance you through your layouts, each time would give you 3 more switches that you could assign to do whatever.

I think with being able to set it up however you want, if you're willing to switch layouts at some point during a song, you should be able to configure it in enough ways that the 3 switches wouldn't really limit you.

Maybe I'm missing something.
 
I can compromise if needed. Even after buying the Axe-Fx 3 I kept the FM3 for a long time because it was such a convenient "throw it in a bag and go" rig.

For me the biggest failing of the FM3 is its mere 3 footswitches. A 4th footswitch would have made a big difference in how easy it is to use as that would be 8 actions total on one layout, which also pairs well with 4 channels in each block, 4 scenes often being enough for your common tones etc. Now you need to augment it with whatever or use hold functions to make up for the 4th switch.

Axe-Fx 3's failing is that the FC controllers are so expensive. MIDI of course works, but it's definitely a worse user experience compared to using the FC6 or 12.

FM9 is pretty much right. I have no interest in trading my Axe-Fx 3 rig for that, but FM9 definitely checks most boxes for me.

Still, though, I get more easy and instant access from those 3 Footswitches than the Kemper Stage which has more than twice as many.

:idk

They design and implementation of those 3 is genius! I can get anywhere I want or need, and then you can customize them to your
own needs.
 
I don't understand what's so hard about using the layout FS at some point during a song to simply switch to a different layout, that gives you 3 other functions for those 3 switches.

I don't own an FM3, but I think from reading how the switches operate, you can set one switch on a hold function to toggle back and forth between 2 layouts, effectively giving you 6 switches total. Or, if you wanted to set that long-press to advance you through your layouts, each time would give you 3 more switches that you could assign to do whatever.

I think with being able to set it up however you want, if you're willing to switch layouts at some point during a song, you should be able to configure it in enough ways that the 3 switches wouldn't really limit you.

Maybe I'm missing something.
Personally I'm not a huge fan of hold functions. I find that I keep forgetting where what I want is, I end up either holding things by accident when anticipating a change etc. I even program my FC-12 to avoid those in most cases.

3 footswitches is a low enough number to mean plenty of compromises, that's why for me that 4th footswitch/display would have made all the difference. When I had the FM3 I just left the 3 footswitches for utility duties and used a MIDI controller for the real switching.

With the Axe-Fx 3 my main FC-12 layout is this:

4 per-preset switches, a couple of layout change switches (e.g more scenes, presets).
4 scene switches, tuner (hold for master layout), tap tempo.

Simple stuff for a simple man who has enough trouble with the playing bit! The Fractal system is cool that you can program all this to your liking.
 
Yeah I agree. The FM9 was really the modeler I wanted all along. The ability to create a complete rig, with the per-preset switching turning off effects like a pedalboard, and then other switches changing channels, allows me to treat it like an amp and pedalboard for me.
I haven’t owned any of the current gen Fractal stuff as it doesn’t fit my workflow and I despise rack gear, but I’ve BARELY escaped grabbing the FM9 a couple times now. That form factor is really the Goldilocks zone for me in terms of practical live usability.

I remember getting nearly harassed out of the other place a couple years back for starting a thread pleading for almost exactly what Fractal delivered with the FM9. Go figure.
 
I’m perfectly happy with the 3 switches on the FM3. Song mode really helped out a lot. I have it set up so that I use Song mode with holds to get to other banks of songs. I only use song mode between songs, and section mode during the song. The footswtich layout is set up so that I can get to all 6 song sections in 1 or two single presses. I also have a two button external foot switch that I have configured as stand in switches. I use them to engage a boost, or increase the reverb mix, and have holds on them to get back to the main menu and engage the tuner.

I had a Morningstar MC8 midi controller for a while, but honestly found that the built in Fractal footswitch setup worked better live, despite me having 4 extra buttons on MC8 (12 buttons total). I’m sure that getting an FC6 would spoil the heck out of me, but I never find myself wishing I had one because I find the 3 buttons are too cumbersome.

-Aaron
 
Last edited:
I had a few breakthroughs which made Dyna Cab much better for me this morning, after watching @2112 videos last night:
  1. Drag the mic around until it gets in the ballpark tonally using the mouse, don't worry about the numbers and don't type things in. I think I was getting hung up spending too much time on the placement and trying to find some kind of formula.
  2. Using dual mics, get the dynamic to sound good on its own but a little too bright, and get the ribbon to sound good on its own but a little too dark and warm. I wasn't sure if it's best to get all the top end from the dynamic and the lows from the ribbon, or try to get both to sound balanced. But I think having the 57 a little bright and the 121 a little warm lets you blend them easier.
  3. Adjust the levels of the mics to dial in more or less highs/lows. Previously I was trying to move the dynamic too far to the edge to get rid of excess high end, but I lost the presence and sizzle that I liked and it sounded too muddy. This time I just lowered the volume of the dynamic, and that kept the high end tone but moved it in the background. Same thing if it's too dark, just lower the volume of the ribbon.
  4. Try smearing the tone a bit with the align page to make it sound a little smoother. Adding even 1-5 ms of delay on one mic seems to tame high end presence and let the mids come through a bit. This made it sound a little closer to a mixed IR. I think Cliff got the phase alignment engine so perfect it may be unrealistic, and this made it sound too crisp and scooped. This smear seemed like almost a magic touch. Never would have thought of that without Leon's video.
 
I had a few breakthroughs which made Dyna Cab much better for me this morning, after watching @2112 videos last night:
  1. Drag the mic around until it gets in the ballpark tonally using the mouse, don't worry about the numbers and don't type things in. I think I was getting hung up spending too much time on the placement and trying to find some kind of formula.
  2. Using dual mics, get the dynamic to sound good on its own but a little too bright, and get the ribbon to sound good on its own but a little too dark and warm. I wasn't sure if it's best to get all the top end from the dynamic and the lows from the ribbon, or try to get both to sound balanced. But I think having the 57 a little bright and the 121 a little warm lets you blend them easier.
  3. Adjust the levels of the mics to dial in more or less highs/lows. Previously I was trying to move the dynamic too far to the edge to get rid of excess high end, but I lost the presence and sizzle that I liked and it sounded too muddy. This time I just lowered the volume of the dynamic, and that kept the high end tone but moved it in the background. Same thing if it's too dark, just lower the volume of the ribbon.
  4. Try smearing the tone a bit with the align page to make it sound a little smoother. Adding even 1-5 ms of delay on one mic seems to tame high end presence and let the mids come through a bit. This made it sound a little closer to a mixed IR. I think Cliff got the phase alignment engine so perfect it may be unrealistic, and this made it sound too crisp and scooped. This smear seemed like almost a magic touch. Never would have thought of that without Leon's video.
Very Anxious to try Dynacabs when comes to FM9

200.gif
 
Try smearing the tone a bit with the align page to make it sound a little smoother. Adding even 1-5 ms of delay on one mic seems to tame high end presence and let the mids come through a bit. This made it sound a little closer to a mixed IR. I think Cliff got the phase alignment engine so perfect it may be unrealistic, and this made it sound too crisp and scooped. This smear seemed like almost a magic touch. Never would have thought of that without Leon's video.

Yeah I'm consistently doing this any time I use dynacabs now. Definitely adds some more vibe and mimics the "close enough is good enough" workflow with real mics.
 
Back
Top