SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

[Sascha Franck]

Boss pedals are good for this because their jack sockets tend to be higher than most other pedals, so the metal jack cases can overlap vertically.

Given that Boss very likely wants you to run them along with more Boss pedals, their design is utterly stupid. As is their big a$$ switch, the combination of both being that you can never place them close to each other.

IMO, I/O jacks on more or less standard sized pedals need to be on the top side rather than on the side. And switches need to be the typical ones used in each and every other pedal.

 

[Cirrus]

Well. I agree, really. I was purely talking about my experience since I usually only have one or two boss pedals in contention and I keep them apart to stop them messing about.

I do like the big footswitches though, they're more reliable that DPDT/3PDT and much more comfy when not wearing shoes.

I do agree about top mounted jacks.

My main thing is actually not having footswitches too close together (one of many reasons I was never interested in the Quad Cortina), so beyond them all fitting on my board I don't want them to be too close together.

 

[Sascha Franck]

My main thing is actually not having footswitches too close together (one of many reasons I was never interested in the Quad Cortina), so beyond them all fitting on my board I don't want them to be too close together.

Really pretty much the same here (I've gotten pretty big feet, plus they're quite wide), but that's something not in favour of boss style switches, either, simply because even if you place them fairly far away from each other, the edges are still a lot closer than the distance between whatever normal DPDT switches placed in the center of the pedal. I used to accidentally step onto the switch of my GE-7 (which was used as an always on pedal in a loop) countless times, so I had to deactivate the switch entirely. And it wasn't even *that* close to the other pedals around.
And fwiw, I also usually don't like switches without any haptical switching feedback. Sure, as someone often dealing with digital devices, I got used to them, but if I had the choice, for all plain on/off operations I'd go for a noticeable switching resistance and click.

 

[itchyfingers]

Joined a Grateful Dead tribute. While Jerry's tone is certainly unique, he wasn't much of an FX guy. The fact there are only 4 pedals and a tuner is kinda freakin me out.

 

[laxu]

I do like the big footswitches though, they're more reliable that DPDT/3PDT and much more comfy when not wearing shoes.

I do agree about top mounted jacks.

My main thing is actually not having footswitches too close together (one of many reasons I was never interested in the Quad Cortina), so beyond them all fitting on my board I don't want them to be too close together.

I use the Mooer footswitch toppers on pretty much everything so that the footswitches are more comfortable to press with hands or feet. The clear mushroom ones are excellent on anything that has displays or LEDs close by, like say Fractal or Helix.

I wish manufacturers made this part of their pedal design because there is nothing good about those tiny bare footswitches. Like include a footswitch topper that goes with the pedal design.

Also clicky switches suck. Momentary switches that work like latching ones are much more pleasant to press.

 

[Sascha Franck]

Also clicky switches suck.

Nah, love them!

 

[-BOOGIEMAN-]

Wanna send out some major props to @la szum for being a straight up man of his word Dave offered me one of his Bogner Red Mini pedals and we both agreed to a trade. We both received our pedals today and nothing gets my respect more than a man who keeps his word. Now my pedal board is a bit closer to completion…

 

[la szum]

You da man! I mean, you da @-BOOGIEMAN- !

 

[Cirrus]

I couldn't deal with the big board, it was too heavy to bother lugging about at home and too big to set up in my man cave without being annoyingly in the way on the floor. Also couldn't find any combination of power cable splitting that didn't induce annoying hum/ buzz from digital pedals somewhere in the chain (It was a Cioks with 7 outputs powering 14 effects).

So...

Frankly, I'm much happier with this. I can deal with the Wah being off board.

The MS-50 being pre-dirt gives me some tasty options for lo-fi/ nasty tones - reverb into distortion etc, and also puts modulation where it should be. And the SDD3000 + Ventris are wired up for stereo.

The only question mark is whether the MS50's tuner will stand up in practice. Seemed ok at home.

 

[-BOOGIEMAN-]

I couldn't deal with the big board, it was too heavy to bother lugging about at home and too big to set up in my man cave without being annoyingly in the way on the floor. Also couldn't find any combination of power cable splitting that didn't induce annoying hum/ buzz from digital pedals somewhere in the chain (It was a Cioks with 7 outputs powering 14 effects).

So...


View attachment 10194

Frankly, I'm much happier with this. I can deal with the Wah being off board.

The MS-50 being pre-dirt gives me some tasty options for lo-fi/ nasty tones - reverb into distortion etc, and also puts modulation where it should be. And the SDD3000 + Ventris are wired up for stereo.

The only question mark is whether the MS50's tuner will stand up in practice. Seemed ok at home.

Curious, were you using those pigtails that split into 2 connections?

 

[Cirrus]

Curious, were you using those pigtails that split into 2 connections?

A combination of Y cables and 3 socket daisy chains.

 

[TubeStack]

I've been using my FM9 in 4cm for the past several months as my whole board, but recently switched to this and am really loving it. I've had all the pedals for a long time, except the JHS and Stomp, which are new (but I've owned a Stomp before). Stomp is in my amp's loop and everything else is in front.


View attachment 6548

I was getting some nasty intermittent hum and have been unable to trace the connection/cause, so I pulled apart the whole board and rewired and reorganized. Also wanted to make things more straightforward for live use while singing. After briefly considering going full GT-1000 in 4cm, I decided just stick with this general board, but rework it a bit.

So, I switched out the huge EVH wah for a Crybaby Mini 535Q and brought out the Mesa footswitch for some old-school channel switching. Part of the latter is so I can try out using the Red/boosted channel on my Electra Dyne more, without having it tied to a Stomp preset for switching. Also, annoyingly, there isn't a way to switch between Blue and Red, crunch/lead, with a single switch on the Stomp (can do it with Fractal gear, however).

The MXR CBMOD is on a PT riser, so I can reach the switch easier while singing.

So far, I really like how this is all laid out.

 

[MirrorProfiles]

Bearing in mind I’m never playing live, so these boards aren’t designed for navigating particular set lists or recreating specific tones…

Decided to make the big board a little more “permanent” - before I had a shit load of boost pedals on there that I’d audition, but it was annoying to chop and change so much, and also a bit cumbersome if I wanted to use other types of pedals or 4CM.

So this board is hooked up to my Fryette Powerstation via 4CM. 3369 is before the looper, loop one is the drive pedals, 2 is the modulations, 3 is Helix (in its own 4cm), guitar amp is 4, 5 is TC flashback, 6 is Helix 2. I can just plug any amp into the Fryette and there’s no pissing around with hooking up FX loops. Behringer has horrible jacks and pots but I LOVE that pedal for DM-2 type tones.

I wanted to have a 2nd small board used for reamping and trying out boosts before amps. Figured a smaller board would be nice for this. Luckily I had a 2nd maxon and a 2nd Klon(e) so I could leave one each on the other board.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Bearing in mind I’m never playing live, so these boards aren’t designed for navigating particular set lists or recreating specific tones…

Decided to make the big board a little more “permanent” - before I had a shit load of boost pedals on there that I’d audition, but it was annoying to chop and change so much, and also a bit cumbersome if I wanted to use other types of pedals or 4CM.

So this board is hooked up to my Fryette Powerstation via 4CM. 3369 is before the looper, loop one is the drive pedals, 2 is the modulations, 3 is Helix (in its own 4cm), guitar amp is 4, 5 is TC flashback, 6 is Helix 2. I can just plug any amp into the Fryette and there’s no pissing around with hooking up FX loops.

View attachment 10236

I wanted to have a 2nd small board used for reamping and trying out boosts before amps. Figured a smaller board would be nice for this. Luckily I had a 2nd maxon and a 2nd Klon(e) so I could leave one each on the other board.

View attachment 10237

How do your find the Mooer Switcher @MirrorProfiles? I've been looking at the mooer or a second hand gig rig quartermaster.

 

[MirrorProfiles]

How do your find the Mooer Switcher @MirrorProfiles? I've been looking at the mooer or a second hand gig rig quartermaster.

I paid £60 for it on ebay, but even new I think it’s a great shout.

In an ideal world I’d have gone for an ES8 or a Gigrig G2 or G3, but they were really overkill for my needs. Having MIDI, channel switching and (especially) moveable loops would have been nice but they’d increase the cost and complexity considerably.

The mooer is cool, the changes aren’t totally instant, but definitely quick enough for me. Switches feel good, jacks feel OK and are nicely spread out. Feels like they made the right compromises to get the cost down. The Helix in 4CM means I can have fx pre or post the amp and it gives me enough flexibility to adjust if I want something in a different order to how I have them hooked up.

I like that you can switch off the in and out buffers and hear the difference. These buffers sound quite good to my ear, I’m not massively clued up on different ones but I know when I hear ones I don’t like.

Would definitely recommend as long as you don’t need any more advanced features.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I paid £60 for it on ebay, but even new I think it’s a great shout.

In an ideal world I’d have gone for an ES8 or a Gigrig G2 or G3, but they were really overkill for my needs. Having MIDI, channel switching and (especially) moveable loops would have been nice but they’d increase the cost and complexity considerably.

The mooer is cool, the changes aren’t totally instant, but definitely quick enough for me. Switches feel good, jacks feel OK and are nicely spread out. Feels like they made the right compromises to get the cost down. The Helix in 4CM means I can have fx pre or post the amp and it gives me enough flexibility to adjust if I want something in a different order to how I have them hooked up.

I like that you can switch off the in and out buffers and hear the difference. These buffers sound quite good to my ear, I’m not massively clued up on different ones but I know when I hear ones I don’t like.

Would definitely recommend as long as you don’t need any more advanced features.

Thanks for that. In an ideal world I'd be going for a G2 or G3 but it's not even close to my budget atm. Plus if I'm honest I'm not sure I really need most of the things it can do. A quartermaster is probably all I really need but moveable loops would be pretty handy.

I can pick up a used QMX 6 for about £150 these days but I've also been looking at those mooer switchers, the pre/post buffers and presets would be cool but switching lag could be a problem if it takes a while as I'll be using it live.

 

[Hawkmoon269]

I'm just about at the point where I am going to rip off the GR switches along the front row that never get used and put the Stomp in it's place. Or grab an XL which will fit like a glove in that spot and allow for more switches (provided I can get them to do what they want)

Where's the rest of it?

 

[PLX]

 

[PLX]

Did you leave this board on Mars for the weekend?

This was my board from gigging in the 90's.

Snapped this pic after I dragged it out of a storage locker.

 

[PLX]

Put it back in!

I think I threw it away.