SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

[SillyOctpuss]

That's a hipster board, for sure.

Lol go on then I'll bite. So why is it a hipster board?

 

[paisleywookiee]

2 klones. Compensating for something?

With a pedal? I’m not insecure, and if I were, I wouldn’t “compensate” with an additional pedal of a similar type. That’s some dumb shit.

 

[paisleywookiee]

That's what I said about your board!

Let’s see yours. Let’s see this amazing board.

 

[PLX]

I never said that my board was amazing, just that yours sucks.

 

[Alex Kenivel]

That's what I said about your board!

You get some kind of hardon from trolling people anonymously or are you always this pleasant?

 

[Sascha Franck]

How do your find the Mooer Switcher @MirrorProfiles? I've been looking at the mooer or a second hand gig rig quartermaster.

Can't say anything about the MK II model, I'm owning a Mk I. But from all I know, not much has been changed in terms of functionality (if anything at all, I'd bet that under the hood it's exactly the same hard- and firmware).
In general, it's a pretty solid unit and serving me well since quite some years already. If you can get away with zero gizmos, it's still a decent choice IMO. Here's my biggest issues:

- Live it's easy to accidentally step onto switches 1 + 2 or 3 +4 together, triggering bank up/down. Now, I have rather big/wide feet, yet, I don't think it'd be that much different with smaller feet. What I've done to avoid a part of the issue is to simply programm the banks above and below my main bank the same.

- No way to enter manual mode via footswitch. Not that I'd need it that much, but when you just jam around, it might be nice here and there. Actually thought about modifying the unit and routing the two contacts for the switch outside (possibly using the tuner out which I don't need anyway).

- The switches and sockets, while ok, aren't exactly military grade. Had to open the thing twice already, to clean the switches and bring those little springs below back into shape. Nothing too bad, but I had to take my board apart, which wasn't too much fun. Also, the sockets aren't holding plugs too tight. That might become more of an issue one day. In case you never change things, you should be fine, though, but IMO they won't take much of a plug-I/O beating.
Having said that, Mk II seems to be a step back in terms of quality. The sockets of the Mk I are secured on the metal housing by nuts whereas the Mk II sockets seem to only be held by their PCB soldering joints. Defenitely nothing I wanted in case I'd fool around with different setups a lot.

Bottomline: For me, it has been a nice choice when I bought it (very affordable, very light, very small) and it served me rather well, but on my next (sort of "final") board that I might be building next year, it's gonna be something else (likely one of the Moen offerings, quite some unknown gems).

 

[Sascha Franck]

And btw, WTF is going on here?

 

[Zodiac]

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Can't say anything about the MK II model, I'm owning a Mk I. But from all I know, not much has been changed in terms of functionality (if anything at all, I'd bet that under the hood it's exactly the same hard- and firmware).
In general, it's a pretty solid unit and serving me well since quite some years already. If you can get away with zero gizmos, it's still a decent choice IMO. Here's my biggest issues:

- Live it's easy to accidentally step onto switches 1 + 2 or 3 +4 together, triggering bank up/down. Now, I have rather big/wide feet, yet, I don't think it'd be that much different with smaller feet. What I've done to avoid a part of the issue is to simply programm the banks above and below my main bank the same.

- No way to enter manual mode via footswitch. Not that I'd need it that much, but when you just jam around, it might be nice here and there. Actually thought about modifying the unit and routing the two contacts for the switch outside (possibly using the tuner out which I don't need anyway).

- The switches and sockets, while ok, aren't exactly military grade. Had to open the thing twice already, to clean the switches and bring those little springs below back into shape. Nothing too bad, but I had to take my board apart, which wasn't too much fun. Also, the sockets aren't holding plugs too tight. That might become more of an issue one day. In case you never change things, you should be fine, though, but IMO they won't take much of a plug-I/O beating.
Having said that, Mk II seems to be a step back in terms of quality. The sockets of the Mk I are secured on the metal housing by nuts whereas the Mk II sockets seem to only be held by their PCB soldering joints. Defenitely nothing I wanted in case I'd fool around with different setups a lot.

Bottomline: For me, it has been a nice choice when I bought it (very affordable, very light, very small) and it served me rather well, but on my next (sort of "final") board that I might be building next year, it's gonna be something else (likely one of the Moen offerings, quite some unknown gems).

Thanks for that. The combo of you having to open it twice to get the springs back into shape and the closeness of the footswitches probably means I'll pass. I'm definitely thinking a gigrig quartermaster is the best choice for my budget at the mo.

 

[-BOOGIEMAN-]

 

[DrewJD82]

I know after a full week of work the first thing I get excited to do on a Friday night is troll on the internet. Mawfuckas got some time on their hands!

 

[Sascha Franck]

The combo of you having to open it twice to get the springs back into shape and the closeness of the footswitches probably means I'll pass.

in fact, it's not all THAT bad - still using the thing, the footswitch distance is the same as on the HX Stomp and it actually did see some beating in the roughly 6 years that I'm using it, so cleaning things up inside is possibly a sort of at least not too unusual thing. But then, as said, my next loopswitcher will be something more "serious", too.

I'm definitely thinking a gigrig quartermaster is the best choice for my budget at the mo.

Hm, that's not programmable (apart from the flip-flop option which could perhaps be seen as a sort of analog programming...) - defenitely a no go for me as one of the most typical thing I'm doing all the time involves three switch actions (pre-boost, post-EQ, post-spatial-FX), mainly the reasone why I went for switchers decades ago already.
Fwiw, I'd defenitely check the Moen offerings. Unfortunately they're not doing their bigger version of the GEC8 anymore, but the others seem to be quite decent, too.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Hm, that's not programmable (apart from the flip-flop option which could perhaps be seen as a sort of analog programming...) - defenitely a no go for me as one of the most typical thing I'm doing all the time involves three switch actions (pre-boost, post-EQ, post-spatial-FX), mainly the reasone why I went for switchers decades ago already.
Fwiw, I'd defenitely check the Moen offerings. Unfortunately they're not doing their bigger version of the GEC8 anymore, but the others seem to be quite decent, too.

I primarily want a Switcher to sort some impedance problems with a few pedals by getting them out of the chain when I'm not using them. My favourite drive pedals are my lovepedal eternity and OCD clones, neither of those play particularly well with buffers but I love them too much to take them off my board. I've got some fuzzes which don't particularly like some buffered pedals either. The gigrig will let me do that. I'd prefer a g2/3 but the size and cost of those just makes them an instant no go for me.

 

[TubeStack]

I couldn't deal with the big board, it was too heavy to bother lugging about at home and too big to set up in my man cave without being annoyingly in the way on the floor. Also couldn't find any combination of power cable splitting that didn't induce annoying hum/ buzz from digital pedals somewhere in the chain (It was a Cioks with 7 outputs powering 14 effects).

So...


View attachment 10194

Frankly, I'm much happier with this. I can deal with the Wah being off board.

The MS-50 being pre-dirt gives me some tasty options for lo-fi/ nasty tones - reverb into distortion etc, and also puts modulation where it should be. And the SDD3000 + Ventris are wired up for stereo.

The only question mark is whether the MS50's tuner will stand up in practice. Seemed ok at home.

Whoa, that Korg SDD is a beast, super cool! In what ways do you use it? (Like, Edge-type delays, or is it for more out-there stuff?)

 

[SillyOctpuss]

That's a hipster board, for sure.

I'd still like to know why it's a hipster board?

 

[SillyOctpuss]

None of the pedals have labels.

1 pedal doesn't have any labels, all of the rest of my pedals do.

 

[Alex Kenivel]

My board as it sat, testing out the Brig. I aim to put it to the right of the KoD, but I'm gonna have to uproot the whole board, drill some more holes, and rewire after I wait for parts and make a few more patch cables. Gonna be super tight with the wide pancake connectors so I'll have to strategically place some of the low profile Rockboard cables in between.

Anyone know of some super slim pancake connectors?

Cable label and nakey time. Desk is my temporary pedalboard.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

Very jealous of the Brig @Alex Kenivel I've been gassing hard for a Brig since they were released

Also have you compared the KoD with the kot in the stomp?

 

[paisleywookiee]

Very jealous of the Brig @Alex Kenivel I've been gassing hard for a Brig since they were released

Also have you compared the KoD with the kot in the stomp?

The Brig is great. It’s more of an idealized analog-voiced delay, than a pure replication. I love it. I look forward to what else they do in this size.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

The Brig is great. It’s more of an idealized analog-voiced delay, than a pure replication. I love it. I look forward to what else they do in this size.

I love my stomp but I've never owned a strymon and I think a strymon delay needs to go on my board for a bit so I can see the hype for myself. I'm just trying to decide between an El Cap, Brig or just going the whole hog with a Timeline.