SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

Of course The Swede prefers the DOD 250. :LOL:

Fucking Swedes. Nothing ever changes. Fucking DOD 250 preamps.
of course! and we're cheap motherfuckers to :knit you know, people spend idiotic money on hyped glorified "preamp" overdrives for subtleties very similar to the simple and cheap 250. Id say it's really not perfect or even that great. A pre bass cut, active mid and post treble eq would make it perfect.... but then... it's not the simple and cheap 250 anymore.
 
Haven't really been a pedalboard guy but...I have built two in the last year. First was my "praise & worshjp" or Strymon board to be able to noodle around with the ambient / shimmer kind of tones. The second board is all Andy Wood's fault for the EVH Wet/Dry/Wet board which I decided to build and follow through with the 3 Roland Micro Cube option for output (I don't play out and kinda tight for space).

Both boards have a signal chain of bottom row to top and from right to left (though the Nux Looper is at the end of the Strymon board). It's all fun but wanting to switch between the two was kind of a drag so I got creative. Both boards each have the same power supply (a Lekato) so I built a small switch box with a 3-way switch so I could easily power whichever board I wanted. I had to think out the next step but it wasn't too bad. I built another box that could handle power to the Micro Cubes. Obviously the EVH W/D/W board uses all three Cubes but the Strymon board only needs two of them.

I built a second box which I could chose between two sets of DC input and then route those DC outputs to the approriate Cube amps. Lastly, I needed a stereo A/B switch and for that, I ordered one from Saturnworks (last pedal on the bottom row of EVH board at far left). So, to use either board, I first select which amps I want to power (#1), power up that board (#2), and then make sure the audio switcher is on the appropriate outputs (#3). When the EVH board is on, all three Cubes are on, if the Strymon board is on, only the two red Cubes are on.

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Gahhh

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I had these pedals 3 years ago. I sold them one by one and I don't even really remember why. Need to get them alllllll againnnn!!!
 
Gahhh

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I had these pedals 3 years ago. I sold them one by one and I don't even really remember why. Need to get them alllllll againnnn!!!
I don't think you have enough delay pedals. In all seriousness, though, I am a delay fan (it is my second favorite effect aside from overdrive/distortion). I think I need to grab a delay pedal with midi so I can have the SDE-3000 algorithm on the GT1000 Core, as well as digital, analog, and tape to use instead or in addition to.
 
I don't think you have enough delay pedals. In all seriousness, though, I am a delay fan (it is my second favorite effect aside from overdrive/distortion). I think I need to grab a delay pedal with midi so I can have the SDE-3000 algorithm on the GT1000 Core, as well as digital, analog, and tape to use instead or in addition to.
I love delays and reverbs!!! Don't really give much of a toss about modulation. Like, I use them.... but I don't care if it is a phase 90, or just some bog standard digital phaser... flanger... tremolo, etc....

To me, those effects just have way less character, and aren't to be worried about.

But delay and verb...... oodles of character possibilities!
 
Just counted, and I have 6 delay pedals and 5 reverb pedals (not counting the Mood and Blooper which can do both and multifx) and still more delays and reverbs on my wishlist. I decided a while ago that I'm just going to hoard pedals that I buy (unless I don't like them right away) and just build the collection even if some get less use.
 
Stuff wants to be played, right?

Fuck it, I'll just put that cork-sniffer's treble boost on the board and have some fun...

PS: Works wonders making otherwise dull "cleans" (Humbuckers + Model T pre + C Standard) sound lively. Apparently they're made for Sound City/Fryette by none other than Chris Vincent of R2R Electric.

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Stuff wants to be played, right?

Fuck it, I'll just put that cork-sniffer's treble boost on the board and have some fun...

PS: Works wonders making otherwise dull "cleans" (Humbuckers + Model T pre + C Standard) sound lively. Apparently they're made for Sound City/Fryette by none other than Chris Vincent of R2R Electric.

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I always wondered about the Belle, kinda the same game era as the Carbon copy right? But the Belle has interesting options. I wonder how it would compare to my Obscura wich still waits in a drawer.
 
I always wondered about the Belle, kinda the same game era as the Carbon copy right? But the Belle has interesting options. I wonder how it would compare to my Obscura wich still waits in a drawer.

I'd pick the BE over a Carbon Copy any day, without thinking twice.

It sounds pretty good, very "organic". Seems they nailed the Echoplex vibe. Never played a Belle Epoch Deluxe (more options/tweaking, various voicings beyond the Echoplex one), but I'm sure it's legit too.

The wow/flutter mod is awesome for longer delays and feedback oscillations, and there's a hidden vibrato mode (?) when you power it up while the mod knob is cranked.

I'm using it in buffered bypass mode, where the boost is always on, regardless of the delay. It's that thick Echoplex base tone, very similar to the Secret Preamp, Clinch FX EP Pre, etc.

The boost adds quite a bit of low-end thump to my Model T preamp, slightly dull though - which is where the Rangemaster comes in.
 
Dismantled and reassembled to set up the cioks last night

Probably not by most people’s standards but for me this is probably the most clean and tidy any iteration of my board has ever looked :LOL:

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A small piece of electrical tape will cure that blinding light from the midi controller. That thing was insanely bright......now, not so much!


Nice looking board, bud!🤘
 
A small piece of electrical tape will cure that blinding light from the midi controller. That thing was insanely bright......now, not so much!


Nice looking board, bud!🤘

Thanks!


Haha yeah is pretty bright. It’s been working great, thanks for the tip!!!

The whole rechargeable be thing does make me slightly uneasy. The cioks has a usb port on it so I’m kind of tempted to just always have it plugged in, although I feel like that might be detrimental to the battery? Although I also don’t leave power running to the bird when it’s not in use
 
Thanks!


Haha yeah is pretty bright. It’s been working great, thanks for the tip!!!

The whole rechargeable be thing does make me slightly uneasy. The cioks has a usb port on it so I’m kind of tempted to just always have it plugged in, although I feel like that might be detrimental to the battery? Although I also don’t leave power running to the bird when it’s not in use
I've only charged mine twice this year ...but you probably use yours more often. How's it been working at gigs/practice?
 
I've only charged mine twice this year ...but you probably use yours more often. How's it been working at gigs/practice?

No problems in real world applications where it matters but it did die on me once at home already without much warning. But maybe I didn’t juice it up enough to begin with?

I guess I could always just have the usb plugged in and not connected but ready to in case I ever needed. And just periodically plug it in too to maintain charge
 
No problems in real world applications where it matters but it did die on me once at home already without much warning. But maybe I didn’t juice it up enough to begin with?

I guess I could always just have the usb plugged in and not connected but ready to in case I ever needed. And just periodically plug it in too to maintain charge
I have a cheap rechargeable battery pack that would probably do in a pinch as well.....got it for free awhile back ....so that's an option too!
 
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