SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

Where do I go to pick up my 'Smallest Dick' award?

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bikescene said:
Here’s my modulation board of cheap noisemakers. I put it together and kind of stopped buying pedals. I built a bypass looper with an open loop to patch in an external distortion or fuzz.

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Click to expand...
Cool board!

I always wonder if those Ibanez boxes would have been more popular if they didn't look so drab and utilitarian. Just making the footswitch a different color would have helped. The "push the knobs in to lock them in place" was a good idea.
 
Pedalboard-3.jpg


Rebuilt on a Nux Bumblebee M.

Under the back row:
  • CIOKS DC7
  • Strymon Conduit MIDI hub
  • Temple Audio 4X MOD patchbay in the back
  • CME WIDI Jack for wireless MIDI
On the floor:
  • Luminite F6W wireless 6-button footswitch.
Signal chain:
  1. Guitar -> Turbo Tuner -> Boss FZ-1W -> Strymon Compadre -> Riverside -> Zelzah -> Deco -> 4X MOD
  2. 4X MOD out -> BluGuitar Amp 1 Mercury Edition input
  3. Amp 1 fx loop send -> 4X MOD -> Volante -> Flint V2
  4. Flint V2 -> Amp 1 fx loop return
MIDI wiring:
  • CME WIDI Jack MIDI out -> Strymon Conduit 5-pin MIDI In
  • Strymon Conduit 1/4" -> bottom row pedals + Flint V2. Since there's only 4 ports on the Conduit, Compadre and Riverside are split using a TRS Y cable for "MIDI in only" operation. Normally these use MIDI in/out over TRS.
  • Conduit 5-pin MIDI Out -> Volante MIDI In
  • Volante MIDI Out -> BluGuitar Amp 1 MIDI In
Luminite Graviton M1 can control all the pedals wirelessly, and is fully wireless itself by being connected to a small USB powerbank I got as a gift from a former client.

One drawback is that the tiny toggle switches on the back of the Strymons are very difficult to operate. Thankfully most are just stereo/mono input switches and the Riverside Presence and Compadre Drive switches can be operated via MIDI.

Another issue is that I can't utilize MIDI in back to the M1 because the Amp 1 hogs one of the MIDI out ports. Unfortunately the Amp 1 MIDI adapter cannot power a CME WIDI Master dongle or that would have worked great for leaving that connection wireless too. Best solution might be to buy a 5-pin MIDI splitter/merger box, if I can find one small enough to cram under the board there.

Finally it lacks a power switch so I have to plug in the cable to the CIOKS. I'm considering taking the IEC mod from my Temple Audio Trio 21 and seeing if that will fit somehow.

I like the Nux Bumblebee board but I wish it was just a few mm taller as that would allow e.g stacking the CIOKS and Conduit and leaving a lot more space. The L size model seems poor because it does not allow for an extra row of pedals on the riser, it's just a bit deeper probably so you can fit a compact loop switcher up front.
 
Also forgot to add that the Volante is an absolute bitch for pedalboard building. It's an oddball "1.75x small Strymon" size and as much as I love its sounds and how practical it is to use, it takes a lot of space and you have to work around it. It's especially tricky for any pedals with side jacks.

I wish they had crammed the Rec and Spring level controls under some secondary functions if that let them shave off a bit of width, maybe replacing the input with a TRS jack.
 
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