I'm guessing the 6CA7 gave you basically more output and headroom over the 6V6
You'd think right? They are supposed to have more headroom than an EL34 and lean towards 6L6.
But that's not what's happend in this case - I'm getting earlier breakup
Which fortunately, is what I want at home volumes.
I have a theory.
The 3rd Power website states:
Plate Voltage, Rectification: | | 120V AC input yields ~360 V DC (5Y3 rectified), 380 V DC (GZ34 rectified) |
So if what we're getting is in that 380v ballpark and the spec sheet for the EH 6CA7 says that it can tolerate a whopping max plate voltage of 800v!
Now I've also read that nobody ever runs them anywhere near 800v (which sounds right), but perhaps I'm significantly slashing headroom at that plate voltage, regardless.
Anyway, that's what's I'm experiencing: I have EOB a little lower on the volume dial than I expected and it seems lower than with the 6V6. Weird eh? It's actually happening at the perfect room volume for me and the C1025 speaker.
Spanky Jr manual says: "Supported power tubes
including 6V6 (standard), EL34, 6L6, 5881, KT66. Supported rectifier tubes
include 5Y3(standard) and 5AR4/GZ34."
Well at least the operating values are similar to an EL34 (heater voltage, current draw, max plate voltage):
Also: I swear it broke up even earlier last night. This is what made me start to worry that I was damaging the tube and running it hot. Now I've checked the specs that seems fine though.
I just stuck my multimeter in an outlet and the wall voltage is fluctuating between 117v and 119v over several minutes. Who knows what the wall voltage was last night; could have been even lower. Ohhhh Canada!
Anyway, don't really know what's going on exactly, but as long as the amp keeps making pleasing tones and doesn't explode, I'm fine with that.