Eagle
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There are a lot worse guitars to string up. Rickenbacker 360 12 string is my pet hate. Fortunately I don’t get them too often.yeap... i love it but hate string change/tuning....
There are a lot worse guitars to string up. Rickenbacker 360 12 string is my pet hate. Fortunately I don’t get them too often.yeap... i love it but hate string change/tuning....
Never!Pretty much the same here. I do however explicitly grab a non-vibrato guitar every now and then, because I sometimes notice some vibrato overdose in my playing.
I sometimes have to force myself to just user finger vibrato.
I'm not typically doing squealing pull-ups or big dive bombs...
I never thought FR guitars were that tough to restring. It should however possibly be noted that I was fixing the system as the first thing (using a little woodblock in the spring cavity), then usually pushing the ballend side through the tuning pegs, then cut the strings accordingly at the bridge and be done with the initial setup in possibly even less than 5 minutes. I would then stretch the strings and usually play a some minutes without fixing the nut-locks, once I locked them, the tuning would pretty much never go off a lot, I never had to re-open the nut during the lifetime of one set of strings. Entire procedure takes like 10 minutes, but in case it was needed, I also managed in 5.
I never knew there would be something more harder to change string on Floyd and tune up.There are a lot worse guitars to string up. Rickenbacker 360 12 string is my pet hate. Fortunately I don’t get them too often.
I never knew there would be something more harder to change string on Floyd and tune up.
I shut my mouth then lol
I guess that never put too much pressure on the winding just before the ball? I was wondering if this is just a great substitute for locking tuners!
Yes, exactly this!And I like the fact that, unlike with finger vibrato, the vibrato movement is going down as well, which I often vastly prefer over "sharp by nature" (unless you bend up before) finger vibratos.
Well, you'd need a string locking block at the bridge then. An in case this is still about FR trems, why would you need locking tuners anyway? Or would you want to operate them without a locking nut? Not that it wouldn't work fine, but I always thought string balance when bending and whammy-ing was much better with a locked nut (after all, you don't need to bend the part of the string north of the nut, which defenitely helps).
It’s just the Schaller shift 2000 but with a needle baring instead of the usual knife edges. Even though it’s zinc with roller saddles it sounds good and it’s almost impossible to put out of tune. The strings don’t roll on the saddles though and they have deep drilled the block. Add all that to the stainless steel zero fret Teflon nut and locking tuners not to mention the rock solid neck and you have near Floyd stability.@Eagle What are your thoughts on the (non-Floyd) Vigier Trem ?
The only reason is quicker restringing. Then lock that nut!
You don't mean the ball end at the tuner do you because that is a terrible idea.Yeah, in that case the "ballend trick" is in fact saving you locking tuners (at least pretty much). You need to trim string lengths anyway at one point in time, so you can as well do it as the first thing.
You don't mean the ball end at the tuner do you because that is a terrible idea.
You don't mean the ball end at the tuner do you because that is a terrible idea.
It can depend on the tuners but the problem is the wrap can easily get stuck in the tuner while it's under tension and it massively adds to the stringing up and removal time if this happens. It brings nothing to the table.Why would it be a terrible idea? It worked just great for over a decade (and will continue to work once I slap the last FR guitar of mine back together).
It can depend on the tuners but the problem is the wrap can easily get stuck in the tuner while it's under tension and it massively adds to the stringing up and removal time if this happens. It brings nothing to the table.
I think he’s talking about loading them headstock-first and leaving the ball-ends on.