Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

Hell @Eagle what are your thoughts and experience with this Bridge and Locking tuners
  • Babicz FCH 2-Point Z-Series C full contact tremolo
    Sung-Il ML-55 locking machine heads


    Again thank you for your valued Input

    Cheers

    Mike
Not a fan of the full contact stuff. It’s ok but the physics is borderline troll . If you distribute the same force over a larger contact area it is simply reduced at any given point. Getting the string vibration through is better if it is concentrated. Try it yourself tune a guitar to an open chord strum it once and lay it on an empty table. Now strum it again and press down the guitar edge only on the same table. The difference is huge.
 
Hi @Eagle,

I want to replace the stock Nashville tune-o-matic bridge and stoptail on my LP Studio. What would you recommend? Faber, ABM, TonePros, GraphTech or Gotoh?
 
Hi @Eagle,

I want to replace the stock Nashville tune-o-matic bridge and stoptail on my LP Studio. What would you recommend? Faber, ABM, TonePros, GraphTech or Gotoh?
Faber ABM and Gotoh all do great stuff the others less so. I recommend full vintage spec for classic tone. Steel inserts and studs will aluminium stop tail and a set of faber conversion pins for an ABR1. Locking parts don’t sound as good.
 
@Eagle got any recommendations for a saddle upgrade on the Player II strat bridge? I didn't love the way the screws on the rolled saddles dig into my picking hand.
You can order short screws from Monsterbolts.com if you don't want to cut down the stock screws.

 
Hey there Andy,

I have a problem with the high E on my Floyd. No matter where I am on the neck, including not fretted at all, that one string has this ice pick pinging sound to it. I have All Parts Floyd saddle shims, so I tried that, but it didn't really help. I even tried going from a .010 high E to a .011, but that didn't help either! I'm playing at standard tuning, by the way. Finally, I figured it's got to be the saddle itself that's acting so nastily, so I just grabbed the first thing I thought of that I already own to try to fix it, and I put a Big Bends String Sleeve on the part of the high E that goes over the saddle, and that did it! I cut down the String Sleeve pretty significantly to do that. Anyway, that confirms there's something in the saddle making my high E sound shitty and harsh, but the problem is it's causing a side effect, not suprisingly, a lack of sustain. Of course these String Savers aren't designed actually to sit on your saddle, but, like I said, that was just the first thing I thought of.

Is there a good effective way to get rid of the ice picky pick attack on that high E coming from the saddle? To give a good example, a test riff I like to play is the famous main riff from Long Train Runnin' by The Doobie Brothers, where you're just barring strings 1 through 5 on the 10th fret and hammering onto the 11th on the B and 12th on the D string; when I play that riff, where I like to strum aggressively, the high E pick attack will just take the back of your head off.

I'm considering maybe just trying to swap the low and high E saddles, since that would keep the right radius. I even looked to see if you could buy individual String Saver Floyd saddles by GraphTech, but it looks like they only sell them in the sets. But is there any other approach you'd take? Thanks in advance as always!
 
Try swapping that saddle with the low E saddle.

Much appreciated. I just went ahead and did that, and of course I got pulled away right before I could test! I think this seems right, because these sales are black I could see a groove in the finish in the area of the break angle, so I'm hopeful.
 
Okay, I just got to test the saddle swap, but that terrible ping is still there. It seems a tiny bit reduced, but that's almost imperceptible. I'm continuing to brainstorm. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Does it do it on every fret? Have you ruled out the trem springs or the strings behind the nut?
 
Does it do it on every fret? Have you ruled out the trem springs or the strings behind the nut?

It does do it on every fret, including playing the open string. I hadn't even considered the trem springs or the strings behind the nut. Are you thinking of something like a resonant frequency? I'll try dampening each of those areas, but what I'm hearing is really just a very harsh pick attack only on that one string, all over the fretboard.
 
Are you thinking of something like a resonant frequency? I'll try dampening each of those areas, but what I'm hearing is really just a very harsh pick attack only on that one string, all over the fretboard.
It’s worth a look. just rule out anything that could potentially sympathetically vibrate. Strap pins, output jack, tuner nuts, screws, even anything in your control cavity.

I set up a guitar for a friend once that had a weird vibration on the low E string. Turned out that it was the truss rod. The neck had enough natural back-bow that the truss rod wasn’t even engaged to straighten the neck. I tightened it enough to remove the slack and it went away.

Sorry for hijacking your thread @Eagle
 
It’s worth a look. just rule out anything that could potentially sympathetically vibrate. Strap pins, output jack, tuner nuts, screws, even anything in your control cavity.

I set up a guitar for a friend once that had a weird vibration on the low E string. Turned out that it was the truss rod. The neck had enough natural back-bow that the truss rod wasn’t even engaged to straighten the neck. I tightened it enough to remove the slack and it went away.

Sorry for hijacking your thread @Eagle

Cool. I just tried damping the strings behind the nut then the trem springs, but neither changed the tone. Thanks for the help though!
 
Is it ringing properly but just not nice sounding?
Or;
Is it like a poor contact?
 
Hey Andy, I'm having issues with buzzing on one of my guitars when fretting notes around the 7th -10th fret. I checked the whole neck with a fret rocker and found that I'm getting a bit of movement when the rocker is centered on portions of the 12th, 13th, and 15th frets. Could that be the culprit?

Other details: The guitar is a 2018 Suhr Classic S. I put a fresh set of strings on to verify that they issue wasn't caused by damaged strings. I had the relief set to 0.0055 inches measured at the 7th fret. The action is 1.6 mm on the bass side and 1.3 mm on the treble side measured at the 22nd fret. To check the neck for warping, I adjusted the truss rod so that the neck was totally flat (no relief) and used a notched straight edge and flashlight. I didn't see obvious indications of warping, but I'm not a guitar tech.

Is there anything else I should check?
 
Is it ringing properly but just not nice sounding?
Or;
Is it like a poor contact?

It has good sustain and rings properly; it's just this ungodly pick attack. When I play single note lines on the high E, the only way to avoid the harsh pick attack is to pick directly over the neck pickup, so that's what I do when I'm not palm muting. I've never had to do that on any other guitar.

But in a situation where I'm strumming clean, the pick attack on the high E is something I can't get rid of. If I pick with any force at all it brings out the harsh pick attack only on that string.

I even looked into different kinds of strings, but it looks like even flat wound strings have the same plain strings as all other sets! I was looking for any way to dull the pick attack. I'm using Dunlop Tortex orange standard shape .60 picks, if that helps.
 
You should look carefully at the contact point as it must be interfering with the string if everything else is working correctly.
 
Hey Andy, I'm having issues with buzzing on one of my guitars when fretting notes around the 7th -10th fret. I checked the whole neck with a fret rocker and found that I'm getting a bit of movement when the rocker is centered on portions of the 12th, 13th, and 15th frets. Could that be the culprit?

Other details: The guitar is a 2018 Suhr Classic S. I put a fresh set of strings on to verify that they issue wasn't caused by damaged strings. I had the relief set to 0.0055 inches measured at the 7th fret. The action is 1.6 mm on the bass side and 1.3 mm on the treble side measured at the 22nd fret. To check the neck for warping, I adjusted the truss rod so that the neck was totally flat (no relief) and used a notched straight edge and flashlight. I didn't see obvious indications of warping, but I'm not a guitar tech.

Is there anything else I should check?
It sounds like you just need a fret level. If your relief is correct and bottoms out around fret 7 and you have confirmed that. It will be a very small amount.
 
You should look carefully at the contact point as it must be interfering with the string if everything else is working correctly.

Thanks for that. Nothing looked weird to the naked eye, so I used the magnifier on my phone, and still everything looks okay.
 
Hi!

I am asking this for a friend. He is eyeing a fender strat, made in mexico (manufactured in 2010) lying in a pawn shop. We had visited the store last week. The guitar is cosmetically in a good condition, and has strings on it. The pawn shop manager seems to just want to get rid of it for 250$. We were in a hurry, otherwise would have played it. He showed us documents which mentioned the year in which it was manufactured. He warned us that it had been lying with them since 2011. I will try to post pics next week. I am skeptical because I am guessing it may be internally damaged and won't be able to keep strings in tune since it hasn't been maintained.

Can it be made playable if he buys it?
 
Hi!

I am asking this for a friend. He is eyeing a fender strat, made in mexico (manufactured in 2010) lying in a pawn shop. We had visited the store last week. The guitar is cosmetically in a good condition, and has strings on it. The pawn shop manager seems to just want to get rid of it for 250$. We were in a hurry, otherwise would have played it. He showed us documents which mentioned the year in which it was manufactured. He warned us that it had been lying with them since 2011. I will try to post pics next week. I am skeptical because I am guessing it may be internally damaged and won't be able to keep strings in tune since it hasn't been maintained.

Can it be made playable if he buys it?
It will probably be fine but you should play it.
 
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