Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

LScottK said:
Andy,

I came across a Tom Murphy R8 with really bad flaking on the neck finish. The seller claims that the flaking occurred when he took the guitar to a luthier to have the frets "shaved". The luthier used masking tape to "protect" the neck, and when he removed the tape he also pulled the finish off of the neck. The seller told me that he's willing to sell for $3,000, which is great price for a Murphy R8. However, I believe that he's trying make a sale without giving me the full story. I am thinking about offering him $2,500 because this kind of damage, plus the fact that he "shaved" the frets down, greatly devalues the instrument. But I'm still leery of making this purchase, even at $2,500. Do you have any thoughts about this? I don't know what a quality refin costs, but after a refin it isn't a Murphy Lab anymore. I'm not sure what the value of a guitar like this is. The guy lives about 30 minutes from me and I have actually played the guitar yet. Any thoughts, other than the "luthier" is a butcher? These pics are from the seller:

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You could easily touch that up because it is lacquer. You may even be able to get back to close to what it looked like. It would be a skilled job and would require someone who is practiced at relic refinishing or repairing vintage. I would say it is worth $3k if the fret high is acceptable. If you need a refret maybe you should pass because it would need to be a vintage style nibs on job and you won’t easily find someone capable of doing that properly. By this I mean the guitar will be restored to its original state without any visual signs of the work.
 
Eagle said:
You could easily touch that up because it is lacquer. You may even be able to get back to close to what it looked like. It would be a skilled job and would require someone who is practiced at relic refinishing or repairing vintage. I would say it is worth $3k if the fret high is acceptable. If you need a refret maybe you should pass because it would need to be a vintage style nibs on job and you won’t easily find someone capable of doing that properly. By this I mean the guitar will be restored to its original state without any visual signs of the work.
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Thank you, Andy. I live an hour or so South of Seattle. We have a couple of high end repair shops in the area that likely could handle the frets properly. Not sure about the finish, though. Assuming that the frets need replacement, what would you consider a reasonable price range for both finish repair and fret replacement?
 
LScottK said:
Thank you, Andy. I live an hour or so South of Seattle. We have a couple of high end repair shops in the area that likely could handle the frets properly. Not sure about the finish, though. Assuming that the frets need replacement, what would you consider a reasonable price range for both finish repair and fret replacement?
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I could only tell you a uk price and that won’t help much. Expect about double the average going rate for the refret. $200 ish for the finish. I would look into the cheapest Murphy R8 you can find and knock of $1.5 k for the whole thing to work . Less would be better but if it is more I would say maybe pass. It seems like good price but it depends on what the repairs cost in your area.
 
Guyker guitar parts: go!

Specifically, I saw these Guyker Dopamine colored locking tuners that look nice.

I'm assuming looks only, but curious if you've got hands-on experience?
 
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unix-guy said:
Guyker guitar parts: go!

Specifically, I saw these Guyker Dopamine colored locking tuners that look nice.

I'm assuming looks only, but curious if you're got hands-on experience?
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Only seen a few things from them . They were an an attempt as budget versions of Gotoh 510 . Ok but not great. This is only a few sets though and they have changed them (again).
 
Do you have any guitar repair tools you'd recommend owning?

I already have nuts files, but my fret crowning file was stolen (was in a guitar case that got stolen a few years back) so I'm thinking of buying at least one of those.

I'm going to Japan next month and there seems to be a store in Tokyo that should have a lot of parts and tools so thinking of picking up some things.
 
Hello Andy hope all is well, was wondering what kind of pots I would require for a Humbucker bridge and single coil neck pickup configuration
with the humbucker having a push pull coil split ?
Im curious as to how that works value wise ? like the push pull pot does it have 2 pots with a value of 250 +500 ? or does it require caps of some sort ?
Again thank you for your help, always appreciated

Cheers
Mike
 
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Stone said:
Hello Andy hope all is well, was wondering what kind of pots I would require for a Humbucker bridge and single coil neck pickup configuration
with the humbucker having a push pull coil split ?
Im curious as to how that works value wise ? like the push pull pot does it have 2 pots with a value of 250 +500 ? or does it require caps of some sort ?
Again thank you for your help, always appreciated

Cheers
Mike
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Most people use 500k and get a single coil that works with it. A humbucker in single coil operation in the bridge on it's own is not a great tone anyway so you should prioritise what you use. I haven't seen a diagram even to add a resistor in the coil tap switch but you probably could.
 
Stone said:
Hello Andy hope all is well, was wondering what kind of pots I would require for a Humbucker bridge and single coil neck pickup configuration
with the humbucker having a push pull coil split ?
Im curious as to how that works value wise ? like the push pull pot does it have 2 pots with a value of 250 +500 ? or does it require caps of some sort ?
Again thank you for your help, always appreciated

Cheers
Mike
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You can just use a regular 500k pot and wire in a 470k resistor so that the single coil only is loaded with around 250k. I've seen many threads about this. I couldn't find a diagram right away, but I know they're out there!
 
Eagle said:
Most people use 500k and get a single coil that works with it. A humbucker in single coil operation in the bridge on it's own is not a great tone anyway so you should prioritise what you use. I haven't seen a diagram even to add a resistor in the coil tap switch but you probably could.
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Yeah I'm thinking your right. a split coil never really sounds like a single coil anyways, My priority is Humbucker in the bridge and single coil in the neck
if i want a Single coil in the bridge later Ill get a SSS Axe

:guiness
 
Eagle said:
Most people use 500k and get a single coil that works with it. A humbucker in single coil operation in the bridge on it's own is not a great tone anyway so you should prioritise what you use. I haven't seen a diagram even to add a resistor in the coil tap switch but you probably could.
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State of Epicicity said:
You can just use a regular 500k pot and wire in a 470k resistor so that the single coil only is loaded with around 250k. I've seen many threads about this. I couldn't find a diagram right away, but I know they're out there!
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Thanks guys for the helpful answers and insight, again proving why this is the best Damned Forum ever

:beer
 
In that diagram Fralin recommends 500k resistors, but I don't know where you can find those. I would use 470k, which you can easily find, and that will be close enough. Pots themselves are usually within 20% of the values they aim for anyway! Good luck with it!
 
Hey Andy, I'm having an issue with the pickup selector switch of my new-to-me '73 LP Classic. It won't stay in the bridge position and keeps popping to the middle position.

I've tried unscrewing the plastic tip a bit, to see if that's stopping it from seating fully, but that doesn't help. Also took off the back cover but it doesn't seem like there's much I can do there?

I have a gig this weekend and really want to use the guitar, but may not be able to, if I can't fix this. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance. :beer
 
la szum said:
Go in through the back again and try manually moving the tabs on the switch until you
get the results you want. You'll see what I mean.

Signed,
Not Andy


:beer
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Thanks, @la szum, I've been trying to do that but I can't seem to get it to work right. All that happens is then it won't stay in the neck position either and keeps popping back to the middle no matter where it's at. I opened up my R9 from the back to see a working one, and the whole thing just seems more solid? Kind of driving me nuts, as I love this guitar! :bonk
 
From my understanding, some of this is due to improper machining at the factory, and it isn't countersunk to the correct depth....one suggestion is to take the tip off (not the case here according to @Eagle thanks for all your generous knowledge and experience)...or shave/sand it down enough to allow the full throw.

Also could be improperly installed, and not a perfect throw.

Or replace the switch.

Just my 2 cents🤘

Edit - I have bent the tabs with success before, but also made things worse.
 
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