Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

norminal said:
@Eagle what causes a “ski jump” at the bridge-end of a neck and why is it common with Fender guitars?
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A combination of things. First being the neck will always bend at the weakest point and that by design is soon after the neck joint relative to the force applied . Next is that the truss rod is basically ineffective at this point. This is why the long heel was added to the prs design. This was always worse on fender bass . Much improved by the addition of reinforcement rods on newer models.
The last factor is fender don’t make any attempt to use a particular cut of maple so the stiffness is a lottery. Thicker necks, reinforced necks and quarter sawn necks are least likely to have this problem. Flat sawn necks most likely.
 
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Do you have any experience with the Hipshot Universal Mounting Plate for tuning machines? Seems like it would lead to less tuning stability than conventionally mounted machines.
 
Eagle said:
A video would help me see what is going on.
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As you can hear, there is a metallic ringing that appears to be caused by the sympathetic vibration of the strings between the capo and the nut. Muting the strings behind the nut does nothing. This also occurs when the strings are fretted with fingers at that same position. Any ideas?
 
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OrganicZed said:


As you can hear, there is a metallic ringing that appears to be caused by ringing between the capo and the nut. Muting the strings behind the nut does nothing. This also occurs when the strings are fretted at that same position. Any ideas?
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Are the nuts on the tuning machines tight? That would drive me nuts.
 
OrganicZed said:


As you can hear, there is a metallic ringing that appears to be caused by ringing between the capo and the nut. Muting the strings behind the nut does nothing. This also occurs when the strings are fretted at that same position. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

This is just sympathetic ringing and I am afraid there is nothing much you can do about it. A carful use of a fret wrap could certainly help.
 
SpaceMan said:
Do you have any experience with the Hipshot Universal Mounting Plate for tuning machines? Seems like it would lead to less tuning stability than conventionally mounted machines.
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Yes they work fine but you do need to make sure the bushings are tight.
 
@Eagle wanted to say thanks for even having a thread like this— really. Thanks in advance.

I’ve got a non-recessed Floyd Charvel that is set up great, but the Floyd plate is not flush with the body.

What is the most preferred method of blocking it so it doesn’t get all janky when it breaks a string? Shim under the plate?
 

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mk5 said:
@Eagle wanted to say thanks for even having a thread like this— really. Thanks in advance.

I’ve got a non-recessed Floyd Charvel that is set up great, but the Floyd plate is not flush with the body.

What is the most preferred method of blocking it so it doesn’t get all janky when it breaks a string? Shim under the plate?
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No because that interferes with your ability to adjust the action . I prefer to custom make a block of wood to fit between the block and the body in the back. It can be secured with double sided tape because it is mostly held by the spring tension.
 
I found this picture, it’s not one I did but it shows the idea
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This has the advantage because it sounds as good as resting on the top but you can still adjust the action. Also if held by double sided tape you can remove it without any modifications should you want too.
 
Floyd Rose Rail Tail, any good? I'm thinking of replacing the trem in my MIM Mike McCready Strat with something that has a push-in arm and is not drilled in at a weird angle.

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Hey Andy,

What's your solution to a tilting humbucker? My RGA has an EMG in the bridge, that will always tilt towards the neck. Other springs, otherr screws. Nop. Is there a solution? Saw some use tubing, but never tried that myself.
 
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