New pedalboard build!

[Whizzinby]

Yeah the EBS Flats are good but I still find the solderless Evidence Audio SIS + Monorail stuff more practical as you can have the exact right length needed. I mainly use EBS for TRS and TRS -> 2xTS cables.

Yeah I use the Evidence solderless stuff too. You just have to grab your ankles with the initial cost of the connectors, but they are super easy to make and really reliable.

 

[metropolis_4]

Two more pedals arrived today!

I went a little crazy. I wanted delay/reverb that could do normal when needed, but also give room for creative experimentation. These definitely fit that description.

These are two of the coolest pedals I’ve ever used. I just lost a few hours digging into them and still only scratched the surface of what they can do!

I was worried Bathing was going to be too weird to function as a normal delay, but it’s not. It does normal delay really well. It also makes an awesome modulation pedal!

My only criticism on both is that the wet level knob is too touchy. It goes from off to overwhelming with the slightest touch.

These pedals and I are gonna have a lot of fun together… now I need to resist buying a Black Fountain and a Pardner

 

[Sascha Franck]

How are you gonna operate these properly?

 

[sashimi]

How are you gonna operate these properly?
View attachment 53292

 

[metropolis_4]

How are you gonna operate these properly?
View attachment 53292

That’s not where they’re actually going on the board, that’s just where I set them so I could spend some time checking them out

 

[gearJunkie]

How are you gonna operate these properly?
View attachment 53292

 

[metropolis_4]

Bathing is insanely cool

Messing around with it I was able to use it as a delay, a reverb-ish, a phaser, a chorus, and even a warbly vibrato/leslie effect. There are so many things you can do with it. It can get pretty wild

 

[Whizzinby]

Love the direction your board is taking.

#lfg

 

[metropolis_4]

Another piece arrived today!

I need at least some level of automation to allow for instant switching between instruments. I was torn between this or a Morningstar MC6 Pro + ML5r.

I decided to take a chance on this because it saves some space having both in one, plus I like that it has a volume pedal built in that can be moved around, and a built in tuner makes my st-300 optional.

I’m a little worried that you can’t save backups… and some of the on-device editing is tedious… we’ll see. I’m gonna give it a chance

 

[JiveTurkey]

Another piece arrived today!

I need at least some level of automation to allow for instant switching between instruments. I was torn between this or a Morningstar MC6 Pro + ML5r.

I decided to take a chance on this because it saves some space having both in one, plus I like that it has a volume pedal built in that can be moved around, and a built in tuner makes my st-300 optional.

I’m a little worried that you can’t save backups… and some of the on-device editing is tedious… we’ll see. I’m gonna give it a chance

View attachment 53381

I wondered about these. Report back when you get time with it!

 

[Dave Lewis]

Another piece arrived today!

I need at least some level of automation to allow for instant switching between instruments. I was torn between this or a Morningstar MC6 Pro + ML5r.

I decided to take a chance on this because it saves some space having both in one, plus I like that it has a volume pedal built in that can be moved around, and a built in tuner makes my st-300 optional.

I’m a little worried that you can’t save backups… and some of the on-device editing is tedious… we’ll see. I’m gonna give it a chance

View attachment 53381

I looked at a friends one of those not long ago and thought it a PITA to use .
Hope you like it.
Andertons have them in a sale now £50 off down to £299.00

 

[TacoParty]

Looks like a really nice pedalboard coming together. I went with Hands board ( the flip top one) a year ago and could not be happier with it and their service.

 

[Sascha Franck]

and a built in tuner

Better check that before you rely on it. Been reading a review on the german "Bonedo" site (usually pretty decent reviews) and it was said that the looper was off a bit.

I've been sort of interested in that thing myself, but for any kind of even remotely more complexed setup (*check*, otherwise I'd need no loopswitcher), I unfortunately need 5 patches to be available straight without bank switching.
It's really bad as there's quite some affordable loop switchers - but they all only offer 4 patches per bank. Once there's more, things get a lot more expensive (or overkill).

 

[TacoParty]

Better check that before you rely on it. Been reading a review on the german "Bonedo" site (usually pretty decent reviews) and it was said that the looper was off a bit.

I've been sort of interested in that thing myself, but for any kind of even remotely more complexed setup (*check*, otherwise I'd need no loopswitcher), I unfortunately need 5 patches to be available straight without bank switching.
It's really bad as there's quite some affordable loop switchers - but they all only offer 4 patches per bank. Once there's more, things get a lot more expensive (or overkill).

Agree on the tuner. I have the PBC10 (the Fender is made by RJM), and could not get along with the tuner. Everything else about the PBC is great. But, I have been a Turbo Tuner user since they first released it, once you get used to the accuracy and speed, hard to use any other tuner. I never compared the RJM accuracy to the TT, it took about 3 times of trying to tune with the RJM before I gave up, it's slow and jumpy. I programmed the mute button to just mute out 1 (I'm not a stereo guy) and run out 2 to the TT. Another benefit is the tuner is always on if I have to quickly touch up tuning in a song, usually only happens with a Bigsby.

 

[metropolis_4]

It’s hard to go back to anything else after using a Turbo Tuner. I’ll probably just keep using mine, but we’ll see on space.

This is what I’m thinking right now:

• ML5 handles all instrument input routing.
• Output of ML5 will go to the Turbo Tuner if necessary, then out to the Switchboard
• Switchboard loops:

1. Compressor
2. Modulations
3. EQ
4. Drives
5. Delay/Reverb

• Output of Switchboard goes to JHS Switchback which splits to the two outputs.

Switchboard will send MIDI to select ML5 active input, EQ channel, output selection, and maybe control the delay/reverb presets and on/off state.

I figure grouping types like that will give me some level of automation while also having some flexibility. And I can easily switch to manual control of everything for electric if I want.

 

[metropolis_4]

I was going to be done and start putting it all together, but I’m calling a last minute audible and redoing my entire drive section

 

[the swede]

 

[Dave Lewis]

I was going to be done and start putting it all together, but I’m calling a last minute audible and redoing my entire drive section

I wouldn’t worry about it.
I bought my new large board & flight case back in May and still only have the GigRig switcher and Canvas power supply on it.

 

[metropolis_4]

For drives my preferred approach is to have one low gain drive that is very amp-like that I can use as a base tone. I want it to be clean when I’m playing single notes and dirty when I hit it hard with a chord.

From there I want two boost options I can hit it with - one that adds enough gain to make single notes overdriven, and one with enough gain for leads.

Right now I use either the ODR-1 or Morning Glory as the base tone, the DOD 250 for the lighter boost, and the JAM Rattler for the heavier boost. I’m about 80% happy with this, but I decided if I’m gonna put this much effort into this board I don’t want to compromise on drive I only feel OK about.

The ODR is really good, but I prefer Marshall flavor for the base tone. The MG does that well, but it still feels and sounds like a pedal. I want something more amp-like.

So, like many many guitarists before me I’ve set out on the pilgrims path to the land of MIAB…

On the boost side the DOD 250 is also really good, but I want something a little flatter and a little more sparkly. The Rattler is amazing, but it’s a little too bright and thin. I want these reversed so it’s more mid push on boost 1 and more full/fat on boost 2.

Also I hate the close side-by-side switches on the Rattler. Pedal companies need to stop doing that!

 

[metropolis_4]

Side note:

Anyone curious about an ODR-1, the gold Anniversary editions sound 1,000x better than the regular new green ones!