hippietim
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Any chance of doing one that works like a normal pot? I want to know where stop and start are. I’m not sure what I’d do with infinity rotation.I
They are rotary encoders, which have infinity rotation
Any chance of doing one that works like a normal pot? I want to know where stop and start are. I’m not sure what I’d do with infinity rotation.I
They are rotary encoders, which have infinity rotation
Great! I'm curious how you'd use the different CW/CCW directions for different functions on the knob though.
Do you think it might be possible to set it up to "wrap around" a value, e.g rotate it long enough and it goes from 0->127->0 again as long as you keep rotating the knob? Or through some min/max range you can define.
I think that might have interesting usecases for say cycling through presets on two different pedals (pedal A is CW, pedal B is CCW) or cycling through values on controls where going back and forth is not that useful (like say picking a cab sim on my Strymon Iridium - CC values 0-8).
Can you use the button on the knob to switch between say sending MIDI CC 1 vs CC 2 when you rotate it?
Any chance of doing one that works like a normal pot? I want to know where stop and start are. I’m not sure what I’d do with infinity rotation.
If you can release a normal pot version that can ultimately send CC MIDI messages that go up when I turn it one way and go down when I turn it the other, you have accomplished what I want. Bonus points if I can pick the starting and ending values but I can make 0-127 work.Yes its possible, but the functionality will be more limited compared to rotary encoders. I'll explore that option once the EC controllers are released.
Any chance of doing one that works like a normal pot? I want to know where stop and start are. I’m not sure what I’d do with infinity rotation.
I’d prefer something I don’t have to look at to know I’ve hit the beginning/end.Or an encoder with an LED ring for feedback.
ok so i kept getting way more noise then I should have and couldn't figure it out with my overdrive and fuzz pedals. Well turns out i have my graviton on a 1-spot along with the pedals and the graviton was making it super noisy and weird sounding. Soon as I unplugged the graviton my pedals were quiet and better sounding. So apparently graviton needs it's own power adapter!
I mean this wasn't your normal daisy chain noise which is little bit of noise and tolerable, this was really bad noise.
The 1 Spot I have is pretty guaranteed to give noise with any digital pedal. Didn't think that would be the case with a non-audio device tho.ok so i kept getting way more noise then I should have and couldn't figure it out with my overdrive and fuzz pedals. Well turns out i have my graviton on a 1-spot along with the pedals and the graviton was making it super noisy and weird sounding. Soon as I unplugged the graviton my pedals were quiet and better sounding. So apparently graviton needs it's own power adapter!
I mean this wasn't your normal daisy chain noise which is little bit of noise and tolerable, this was really bad noise.
On the website it says it needs 250ma minimum of current. Were you giving it that? I would never daisy chain anything requiring that much current but just curious
I think you are a special case when you have almost every complex box that comes to market!Where the heck people find room to plug in each pedal with it's own power supply lol. I'm already running out of space in my home for where to plug things into lol.
My boss sy-1000, boss gm-800, polyeffects beebo, meris lvx, eventide h90, glou-glou loupe looper already run off their own single power supplies each, and im running out of space lol
I remember reading hte BT LE support was added recently to WIn11, but it might not be yet available in anything but insider builds.So I just realized that Bluetooth le midi does not work in windows 11. So what are my options for connecting the M1 or M2 to my PC? CME widi bud pro dongle or USB cable?
For some reason, the CC's stop sending to the Stomp after awhile and won't change until I go into Settings>TRS and switch to something else and then back.
- Fixed a bug where TRS 1 Jack has to switch to Footswitch mode and then back to MIDI Out again after restarting for MIDI Out to work again.
The PC's going to the IR-X won't keep what I set them at, and will add a boost where I don't want it, or not activate the boost where I do no matter what I set it at. When I go into the individual MIDI blocks for Ch. 1 (IR-X) it selects things correctly, but when I switch the entire preset either on the screen or with the FS, it switches to whatever it wants.
I was unaware that 4.03 was out. THat seems to have fixed that issue. Thanks!Yes there was a bug with Settings > TRS > MIDI Out Mode that came with 4.0.1 and was fixed in the latest 4.0.3.
Does this happen if you use the 5-pin MIDI Input on the IR-X instead ? Have you set the receiving channel on the IR-X as channel 1 instead omni ?
@Luminite I ran some PC and CC's from my PC to the Stomp with the same cable via MIDI OX, and it worked flawlessly. I'm thinking there may be a bug with your USB MIDI implementation.I was unaware that 4.03 was out. THat seems to have fixed that issue. Thanks!
The IR-X is set to channel 1. I switched to a 5-pin cable and that seems to work correctly. Now the question is, is there a bug with the USB Host or with the IR-X? When I try to use the USB for MIDI with the Stomp, it doesn't work at all, and with the IR-X it switches some things but not as it's supposed to.