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Have you heard what that sounds like?why don't you make a clip with the GEQ set flat?
Have you heard what that sounds like?why don't you make a clip with the GEQ set flat?
why don't you make a clip with the GEQ set flat?
Have you heard what that sounds like?
Some people say Mark meets Recto.
I keep waiting for a headshell to pop up as I still don't have the nerve to get out sawzall@JiveTurkey the III Blue Stripe is the most top end forward of all the Marks. The prior III revisions, IIC+, and basically all other Mark amps are closer to each other.
My III blue stripe has been modded with a 500pf cap in C30 which is closest to the traditional Mark presence value. If yours is stock, C30 will be empty. It’s not uncommon to see presence 0-3 on Blue Stripes. It’s in part because of this that the blue stripe is also the most aggressive version of that amp. Some people say Mark meets Recto.

Moving the chassis over from the combo to the headcab was something I expected to be easy and was anything but. There’s so many little things to remove that are fiddly/hidden, and you have to do it in a particular order as there’s so little space (at least if you have a high wattage version with reverb). still haunts me nowI keep waiting for a headshell to pop up as I still don't have the nerve to get out sawzallI am betting it's stock and C30 is empty; if my ears have any sort of ability to discern treble frequencies left
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Oh I see. Now I got what you said. So in my case, using the notch as a wrench to fully tighten or loosen it makes no difference. The 'play' is always there, no matter if the tension is tight or loose. I always can feel it. There is no dead zone though. The exp goes from 0% to 100% even with the play. But its a Very unpleasant feelling considering that the device is brand new and costly. When I got it I didn't mess with the tension as it was perfect. Not loose or Very tight. Just perfect with no squeeks.Yes, that's exactly what I did. I chose to use a wrench to hold it from the side just because I didn't like how much play there was, but you should be able to just rely on the notch in the pedal to act as the "wrench" to hold it still. I think I was just being overly cautious. It seems that originally I thought I was adjusting it, but it was just the fact that there is a little play and I wasn't really loosening it.
I have the high wattage with reverb. UghMoving the chassis over from the combo to the headcab was something I expected to be easy and was anything but. There’s so many little things to remove that are fiddly/hidden, and you have to do it in a particular order as there’s so little space (at least if you have a high wattage version with reverb). still haunts me now
Sure, but it's not really meaningful to compare weight/ footprint of a laptop alone to (for instance) a Stadium. You'd need to throw in an audio/MIDI interface with equivalent I/O, and a footswitching solution as well. If your mobile solution is a hardware modeler + laptop, then DAW-like features in that modeler present an opportunity to ditch the laptop.Isn't a laptop lighter though?
You may be half-right. (Lighter.) You still have to pick yer poison on a number of accessories. Usually not that easy to deal with....a MacBook Air and pick-yer-poison plugins would be lighter and easier to deal with.
Set it up like Line 6's own "Backtrack" device from a million years ago, where it's always passively listening/caching a certain amount of audio in the background, and when you realize something inspiring has just happened, you can mark it and/or save it off permanently.This is what if love to have in it.
Not a full DAW.
But a scratch pad to record ideas quickly while jamming.
It'd be cool to then send them to the app via wifi so I could import to a DAW to work on structure and arrangement.
@Desertdweller has done it too.Moving the chassis over from the combo to the headcab was something I expected to be easy and was anything but. There’s so many little things to remove that are fiddly/hidden, and you have to do it in a particular order as there’s so little space (at least if you have a high wattage version with reverb). still haunts me now
For me, a 3/8" open ended wrench seemed to fit the locknut. See if you can get a hold of one and try to use that to keep it still and loosen things further. Maybe there's some sort of manufacturing issue where the notch on some of the pedals is slightly too wide to grip the nut well. After I was able to loosen mine more while holding the nut still, it now feels a lot smoother.Oh I see. Now I got what you said. So in my case, using the notch as a wrench to fully tighten or loosen it makes no difference. The 'play' is always there, no matter if the tension is tight or loose. I always can feel it. There is no dead zone though. The exp goes from 0% to 100% even with the play. But its a Very unpleasant feelling considering that the device is brand new and costly. When I got it I didn't mess with the tension as it was perfect. Not loose or Very tight. Just perfect with no squeeks.
I might discovered what's wrong. The notch in the expression pedal doesn't catch the locknut perfectly. This is where. You have to step it in a little, then it catches the nut, then works normally. The same goes the other way. Step back a little, notch then holds the locknut and then works as it should. I think either the locknut or the pedal notch is worn out a bit? I might have to try another locknut. But it's definitely that.
B is the Mark III (tbh that one sounds a bit more “amp like” to me in the low end). C is Line 6.
Are we talking about a Mark here? It’s literally 4 screws and you slide it out. I’ve taken apart every Mark I’ve owned.Moving the chassis over from the combo to the headcab was something I expected to be easy and was anything but. There’s so many little things to remove that are fiddly/hidden, and you have to do it in a particular order as there’s so little space (at least if you have a high wattage version with reverb). still haunts me now
The amp part is easy, it’s the fan and reverb tank (which sits under a metal plate). The combo had some screws holding wires out of the way which were fiddly to remove IIRC. For a 60W and no reverb there’s way more space to work with than a fully decked out 100W. It’s a very tight fitAre we talking about a Mark here? It’s literally 4 screws and you slide it out. I’ve taken apart every Mark I’ve owned.
Yes that's definitely it. The expression's notch is a little bit wide. I replaced the locknut with a brand new one and the issue remains. Its exactly the same. I guess I'm sending it back. I'll open a ticket in line6 first, maybe they have a solution dor this. I'll report here for anyone having the same.For me, a 3/8" open ended wrench seemed to fit the locknut. See if you can get a hold of one and try to use that to keep it still and loosen things further. Maybe there's some sort of manufacturing issue where the notch on some of the pedals is slightly too wide to grip the nut well. After I was able to loosen mine more while holding the nut still, it now feels a lot smoother.
That's too bad. Hopefully they can give some suggestions. I just took another look at mine and after I loosened it up, the locknut is no longer moving freely and it seems to be held in the notch on the pedal ok now.Yes that's definitely it. The expression's notch is a little bit wide. I replaced the locknut with a brand new one and the issue remains. Its exactly the same. I guess I'm sending it back. I'll open a ticket in line6 first, maybe they have a solution dor this. I'll report here for anyone having the same.
The strange thing is that for two days it worked completely fine, although I wasn't using it much.