Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

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Here is an old Levinson Blade I recently refretted to keep the maximum width.
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This is Hosco stainless steel fret wire. Almost 6000 size.
 
Beautiful. Thanks again @Eagle. I have another question.

How do you go about filing sprouted fret ends on a guitar with binding? Do you tape the binding or just file down until you start to hit the finish and then polish?
 
la szum said:
We are very lucky to have Andy here sharing his wealth of knowledge and actual experience. :beer
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Thanks. I know that some people think I have an agenda but I honestly don’t. I just don’t like fellow musicians getting ripped off by what is pretty shark infested business that charlatans seem to do well in. I say what I see and over the years that’s become quite a lot 🤣.
 
Hey @Eagle

I have a question about a trem system I haven't encountered until now: I never had *that* standard 2 point trem. But now I own a guitar with one.

So I search the web how to set the ttem angle. Gonna block it anyway, but want to do it right. Some sources say I should go with the body in parallel. But the body is curved. There's no straight line to refer to. Some sources say I should go parallel with the strings.

Who's right here?
 
BahamaDada said:
Hey @Eagle

I have a question about a trem system I haven't encountered until now: I never had *that* standard 2 point trem. But now I own a guitar with one.

So I search the web how to set the ttem angle. Gonna block it anyway, but want to do it right. Some sources say I should go with the body in parallel. But the body is curved. There's no straight line to refer to. Some sources say I should go parallel with the strings.

Who's right here?
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Parallel with the strings is correct. I would suggest that you just use a back stop that sets up down bend only and tighten the springs enough to bend three semitones on the G without it going flat. This is the same as blocking it for playing ( just take out the bar) but it sounds better than a full block which tends to interfere with the path of string vibration to the body . It also prevents the baseplate making its proper full tension contact with the knife edges.
 
Eagle said:
Parallel with the strings is correct. I would suggest that you just use a back stop that sets up down bend only and tighten the springs enough to bend three semitones on the G without it going flat. This is the same as blocking it for playing ( just take out the bar) but it sounds better than a full block which tends to interfere with the path of string vibration to the body . It also prevents the baseplate making its proper full tension contact with the knife edges.
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Thanks for the reply!

What kind of back stop do you recommend?

I used a Göldo Black Box ok a FR guitar, but I was no big fan of the whole mechanic (how it worked and how it was made).
 
I like to custom make a block of hard wood that fits between the block and the spring side of the body. It can be secured with double sided tape because this spring tension holds it in place mostly . This is then easily removed with no holes should you no longer need it. You do however need to very carefully make it exactly the right size and shape to rest perfectly flat against the block at exactly the right angle..
 
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Eagle said:
I like to custom make a block of hard wood that fits between the block and the spring side of the body. It can be secured with double sided tape because this spring tension holds it in place mostly . This is then easily removed with no holes should you no longer need it. You do however need to very carefully make it exactly the right size and shape to rest perfectly flat against the block at exactly the right angle..
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Thanks for the advice. The 2-point-trem guitar is getting it's final laqucer these days, so I will try this on that soon.

But I tried what you suggested on the Ibanez RGA I asked you about some time ago (replacing the Edge pro and so). The Edge Pro is still in it and still a PITA in my opinion. So I went to the hardware store and got a set of "Abstandshölzer" (The little wood things you put in between tiles when tiling). They have different sizes and I just sawed one in the right length. Glued it between trem block and wood (with double sided tape towards neck) and put in 2 normal and 1 harder spring (Drop C tuning and heavier strings). Nice. I now have a kinda hard-tail, that is even "dive only" and holding tuning.
 
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Hello @Eagle ive become a real Gotoh hardware fan, I recently Purchased a new Aluminum tailpiece and Bridge for my Revstar this is the hardware that came with the guitar is this Pot metal ?

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And what will the Gotoh Hardware change Tonewise ? what is undesirable about pot metal ?
Again thank you for all your help
Much appreciated

Cheers
Mike
 
Stone said:
Hello @Eagle ive become a real Gotoh hardware fan, I recently Purchased a new Aluminum tailpiece and Bridge for my Revstar this is the hardware that came with the guitar is this Pot metal ?

View attachment 21519


And what will the Gotoh Hardware change Tonewise ? what is undesirable about pot metal ?
Again thank you for all your help
Much appreciated

Cheers
Mike
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Pot metal is for those weirdo pot heads!


:sofa
 
Stone said:
Hello @Eagle ive become a real Gotoh hardware fan, I recently Purchased a new Aluminum tailpiece and Bridge for my Revstar this is the hardware that came with the guitar is this Pot metal ?

View attachment 21519


And what will the Gotoh Hardware change Tonewise ? what is undesirable about pot metal ?
Again thank you for all your help
Much appreciated

Cheers
Mike
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Yes it’s a zinc alloy. Generally these have a tendency to dull the treble response. Those are not the worst. The sintered die cast version takes that crown.
 
Hi, I have a question regarding shielding the guitar cavity of my strat with copper foil tape to reduce the single coil hum. If done “right”, is this going to affect the tone?
 
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