Treble Bleed Circuit - What Component Values ?

I’m currently testing different treble bleed values in a few on my guitars.

Here’s what I’m using at the moment:

PRS CE-24 (Seymour Duncan JB / PRS Vintage Bass):

220pf capacitor
100k resistor

Still undecided on this combination. With higher gain, the roll off starts at about 5 on the volume knob. I’d like it to start at around 7-8.

Fender Strat (Fender Fat 50’s):

2000pf capacitor
220K resistor

I’m really liking this combination with these pickups. It’s very linear and similar to rolling off a bass knob. These are the same values Lindy Fralin recommends with his pickups.
 
I’m currently testing different treble bleed values in a few on my guitars.

Here’s what I’m using at the moment:

PRS CE-24 (Seymour Duncan JB / PRS Vintage Bass):

220pf capacitor
100k resistor

Still undecided on this combination. With higher gain, the roll off starts at about 5 on the volume knob. I’d like it to start at around 7-8.

Fender Strat (Fender Fat 50’s):

2000pf capacitor
220K resistor

I’m really liking this combination with these pickups. It’s very linear and similar to rolling off a bass knob. These are the same values Lindy Fralin recommends with his pickups.
What are your thoughts on a slightly hot PAF-style humbucker (8.8kΩ) with a 500kΩ volume pot, no tone pot, and my guitar cable measures 1nF ?

:unsure:
 
What are your thoughts on a slightly hot PAF-style humbucker (8.8kΩ) with a 500kΩ volume pot, no tone pot, and my guitar cable measures 1nF ?

:unsure:
It’s so hard to predict how it would behave. My recommendation is to do what @State of Epicicity did (and I’m currently doing) and solder in a few jumpers that exit the control cavity so you can quickly swap out components for testing:

34F7A4D6-1458-4DE7-B9A1-F492FF6C5470.jpeg


It’s a little janky, but once I settle on a combination, I’ll remove the jumpers and solder the components in.
 
It’s so hard to predict how it would behave. My recommendation is to do what @State of Epicicity did (and I’m currently doing) and solder in a few jumpers that exit the control cavity so you can quickly swap out components for testing:

View attachment 24036

It’s a little janky, but once I settle on a combination, I’ll remove the jumpers and solder the components in.
I was gonna assemble some of the more popular variations and do that, since there's no way to predict what I might like.

PRS – 180 pF cap (500 kΩ volume pot, no parallel/series resistor)

G&L – 200 pF (no resistor)

Bill Lawrence – 330 pF capacitor & 80 kΩ resistor

Mojo Tone – 471 pF capacitor & 220 kΩ resistor

DiMarzio – 560 pF capacitor & 300 kΩ resistor

John Suhr – 680 pF capacitor & 150kΩ resistor

TV Jones – 1 nF capacitor & 150 kΩ resistor (2 nF cap suggested for 500 kΩ pot, humbucker)

Fender – 1.2 nF capacitor & 150 kΩ resistor in parallel, plus a 20 kΩ resistor in series

Seymour Duncan – 1 nF capacitor & 100 kΩ resistor

Chris Kinman – 1.2 nF capacitor with 130 kΩ resistor in series

Lindy Fralin – 2.5 nF capacitor & 200 kΩ resistor
 
I've given up on modeled bright cap, there are so many variations with how bright caps are done to smooth and shape the slope at cutoff, hard set ones are kind of boxy. getting a lot better results turning off the bright switch, raising gain to about 2 o'clock to the model sweet spot, lowering input trim to bring gain back to where it should be at about 10 o'clock on an amp, and using input EQ to shape a smooth low cut and boost just the right amount of top
 
I have a .0033uF on my JEM's volume and a .0022uF on the tone pot. The volume is on a push/pull, when engaged it switches from a 500K pot to a 250K with split coils/rolled down volume in mind.

I don't really dig it, it just gets way too brittle and I found myself actually kind of wanting the opposite thing to happen.
 
I've given up on modeled bright cap, there are so many variations with how bright caps are done to smooth and shape the slope at cutoff, hard set ones are kind of boxy. getting a lot better results turning off the bright switch, raising gain to about 2 o'clock to the model sweet spot, lowering input trim to bring gain back to where it should be at about 10 o'clock on an amp, and using input EQ to shape a smooth low cut and boost just the right amount of top
Wrong thread? 😂
 
This thread on the Guitar Nuts 2 forum is what inspired me to try 150k 82nF in parallel, and that was perfect for me. I highly recommend adding that to the list to try.

 
This thread on the Guitar Nuts 2 forum is what inspired me to try 150k 82nF in parallel, and that was perfect for me. I highly recommend adding that to the list to try.

I'm on that forum, but it seems kinda dead.

o_O
 
I'm on that forum, but it seems kinda dead.

o_O

It seems like there are a few main players there, and a bunch of people who come for advice then leave. But for nitty gritty tech analysis, there's nothing more severe! Haha, I really do like their threads, because there's no detail to insane. For that treble bleed thread, the OP is the same insane dude who created GuitarFreak, the spreadsheet that will display exactly what a mod will do to your pickups.

I wish the site looked cooler, and maybe its design makes people think it's inactive, which is a shame.
 
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It seems like there are a few main players there, and a bunch of people who come for advice then leave. But for nitty gritty tech analysis, there's nothing more severe! Haha, I really do like their threads, because there's no detail to insane. For that treble bleed thread, the OP is the same insane dude who created GuitarFreak, the spreadsheet that will display exactly what a mod will do to your pickups.

I wish the site looked cooler, and maybe its design makes people think it's inactive, which is a shame.
That's exactly how I found the site.. searching for some technical stuff, and I was blown away by that guy's work !

:chef
 
Without knowing that frequency, it's just a guessing game.

:unsure:

would you look at the pickup resonant freq and make the cutoff point right below that? seems like that wouldn't leave much meat, low cuts above 200 hz really gut the core tone. that's how PRS does it tho, volume down on an HFS and it turns into a single coil without even needing to tap it
 
would you look at the pickup resonant freq and make the cutoff point right below that? seems like that wouldn't leave much meat, low cuts above 200 hz really gut the core tone. that's how PRS does it tho, volume down on an HFS and it turns into a single coil without even needing to tap it
I contacted the boutique winder that made this pickup, and he said he didn't know what the resonant peak was.

:rolleyes:
 
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