Stratocaster bridge had to be raised for enough string height from the saddles -- any workarounds?

[Spaced Out Ace]

In order to get enough height at the 14th fret, I had to raise the bridge itself up quite a ways and it is now floating (though I have it blocked for now). I had to do this as the size of the neck block raised the fretboard up a fair amount. I've meaured how much the fretboard is above the body around the low E side of the guitar neck to top horn, and on my other guitars it appears to be 1/2" (roughly), while this guitar is about 5/8" (or perhaps a smidgen higher). This plus the limitations of the bent saddles and saddle height screws resulted in needing to lift the bridge away from the body a few amount. The space I have at the 14th fret (same for most of my guitars) is 3/32nds, if memory serves.

Anyhow, my question is, what are some workarounds for this to get it closer to the body? I was thinking some saddles like the Gotoh S105 might do the trick. Would there be screws that would fit into the Gotohs that would give me more height adjustment in case I needed it?

Pics:

Here's what the Gotoh S105 saddles look like:

 

[DrewJD82]

This sounds like a good one for @Eagle!

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

Thanks Drew! Unfortunately, the title sucks as I'm not able to describe it well in a short description sort of way. Some might suggest sanding, but I'd rather not risk that, as A, I don't have an electrical sander, and B, if I sand it in an uneven fashion, the neck is pretty much fucked. To reiterate, I measured at the 2nd fret of this guitar and several others, and it is not showing any sign of being too low. The neck relief matches my other guitars. The only place I see a marked difference is around the neck pocket, as noted by my measurement around the upper horn near the low E string's side of the fretboard. That 1/8" is all the difference.

I want the Gotoh S105 saddles for my other guitars anyways, as I prefer this style to the bent saddles, but for this guitar, I am hoping I can get the bridge closer to the body if possible.

 

[DrewJD82]

Thanks Drew! Unfortunately, the title sucks as I'm not able to describe it well in a short description sort of way. Some might suggest sanding, but I'd rather not risk that, as A, I don't have an electrical sander, and B, if I sand it in an uneven fashion, the neck is pretty much f****d. To reiterate, I measured at the 2nd fret of this guitar and several others, and it is not showing any sign of being too low. The neck relief matches my other guitars. The only place I see a marked difference is around the neck pocket, as noted by my measurement around the upper horn near the low E string's side of the fretboard. That 1/8" is all the difference.

I want the Gotoh S105 saddles for my other guitars anyways, as I prefer this style to the bent saddles, but for this guitar, I am hoping I can get the bridge closer to the body if possible.

Did you a put a new neck on it or shim the neck? I wasn’t catching from the first post what change occurred that required raising everything?

 

[JiveTurkey]

I know Drew is twitching looking at that pic

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

Did you a put a new neck on it or shim the neck? I wasn’t catching from the first post what change occurred that required raising everything?

No shim, as the shim would only make the fretboard higher above the body. I bought the neck and body, then put them together. I had a heck of a time with getting the issue diagnosed, and was unable to get the strings to go over the bridge enough to tune. I measured the 2nd fret on this and one other guitar at the time, which are basically spot on. The only real difference is at the neck joint, where the neck block is thicker than on other guitars of mine. Roughly, the additional thickness is about 1/8".

 

[DrewJD82]

No shim, as the shim would only make the fretboard higher above the body. I bought the neck and body, then put them together. I had a heck of a time with getting the issue diagnosed, and was unable to get the strings to go over the bridge enough to tune. I measured the 2nd fret on this and one other guitar at the time, which are basically spot on. The only real difference is at the neck joint, where the neck block is thicker than on other guitars of mine. Roughly, the additional thickness is about 1/8".

I gotcha. I’d probably consider taking that 1/8” off of the neck instead of modifying everything else to accommodate it as that’s where the issue is stemming from.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

I gotcha. I’d probably consider taking that 1/8” off of the neck instead of modifying everything else to accommodate it as that’s where the issue is stemming from.

My fear from doing that is that the neck could become cockeyed from uneven sanding.

 

[DrewJD82]

My fear from doing that is that the neck could become cockeyed from uneven sanding.

Nothing a level can’t guide you with!

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

You have more confidence in my woodworking abilities than I do.

 

[Eagle]

First the neck needs to be almost dead level ( only a hair of relief.) Then a small reverse shim at the front. Then set the posts for the bridge plate. And finally set the saddles. Try this and report back.

 

[Eagle]

Don’t cut anything!!!!!!!!

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

What is "the front" and what is a "reverse shim"?

 

[Eagle]

More pictures please ; the neck joint.

 

[Eagle]

What is "the front" and what is a "reverse shim"?

Exactly that ,a shim at the front of the neck pocket

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

It's too high as is, a shim would increase this. Is the "front of the neck pocket" inside the pocket (near the pickup) or near the end of the neck pocket (ie, where the body ends)?

 

[Eagle]

End of the body. It will lower the hight of the bridge needed for the action to remain as is .

 

[Eagle]

The bottom one.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

View attachment 8105
The bottom one.

Alright, I see what I'm doing now. How can I measure that this is the culprit?

EDIT: Actually, when taking the guitar and looking down at the side dots, I was able to see the fact that it seems to tilt back so that fretboard around the 14th fret is even with the upper horn, while the 22nd fret is higher. Doing this, I was able to see it has a back angle rather than an even angle or forward angle in the neck pocket.

 

[Spaced Out Ace]

Anyways, I am planning to buy shims from StewMac. My question is what degree should I get? A few .25, a .5, or a 1 degree? A set of 3 (a .25, a .5, and a 1 degree)?