The correct pickup heights & action for me are money on this guitar

[Abe]

I found that for the right pickup height the D'Addario String Height Gauge was less useful than money, and found that penny for treble strings and nickel for bass strings is right for me on this guitar. The strings are fretted down on the last fret, and the money is there. And I did it all without dropping that precious money into the f-hole!




Money is also useful for the action and simplifies it in ways the D'Addario String Height Gauge couldn't for me. Penny and dime at the 12th fret for low E and high E.




In millimeters the dime is 1.35mm / 3/64th", the penny is 1.52mm / 4/64th", and the nickel is 1.95mm / 5/64th".
They might be measured slightly thicker at the bubbling out of the presidential heads on the coins.
They do come out at around some of the popular pickup height and action measurements in 16ths, 32nds, and 64ths.
I have always preferred some nice low action on electric guitars. As long as it's right for the relief and doesn't bring out much string buzz.
And these pickup heights seem optimal for me on this guitar as it really brought out the maximum tonal response for my playing of it.
Much improved from the way it came actually, as this particular guitar is for me, not for anyone and everyone who has one.
A luthier or guitar tech at a music shop can have the educated guess is to what's right for you,
but if you know your ears, playing, and preferences you can more so fine tune it to your individuality.

 

[Eagle]

This method is not accurate because you displace the string pushing a coin in the gap by more than reasonable tolerance. Just buy an action rule of a quality small engineering rule. This method is almost as bad as using a feeler gauge for the measurement of the relief.

 

[Eagle]

Also you need to start by optimising the performance of the particular guitar and then see how that feels because fret hight and radius radically affect the feel of a set of measurements on two different guitars. You also should use the set up that is optimal for a particular instrument not just try to put the same measurements on everything . If you’re a 10s player you wouldn’t just put them on your acoustic with the same action and you should not just assume all electrics are the same either. Play the guitar in front of you in a way that optimises the tone you can get from it. This is rarely identical across different instruments. Obviously your preference plays a large part but if tone is your main focus the only way to get the same set up on different instruments is to replicate the playing geometry exactly across your collection and that requires custom made instruments or a PLEK.

 

[Abe]

I see the points you're trying to make. Specifically I agree with the notion that the measurement you want has to do with the player, the player's guitar with the guitar’s pickups, string gauge, preference, playing style, etc.

Not suggesting that these measurements are what everyone needs on any guitar with any string gauge and any playing style. This wasn’t meant as an instructional post for anyone or everyone. You may be misunderstanding my post. This made this particular guitar and string gauge more ideal for me as a particular player with my playing style to get more optimal tonal response and feel, for me. Not for you, or your guitar with your strings and playing style with or for your money.

However,

it is plentifully accurate. You simply pay attention, look, and measure. If you displace the strings with the coins then it's not measured correctly by the coin's thickness and is instead measuring as less distance than the coins' thickness --> / displacing the strings. I can avoid displacing the strings with the coins just as efficiently as the string height gauge tool can be read accurately. The method is valid and can be as accurate as any string height gauge will be provided that you like the thickness that the dimes, pennies, and nickels measure.

I don’t play my Gibson anymore as I switched to a PRS, but



I just now budged the bridge pickup to the specs he suggested actually, and I think it’s even more so nice and even on all strings' volumes on all 3 pickup settings.

It works fine, just have to know to not displace the strings like you mentioned when measuring. Can easily use my String Height Gauge to verify as I did, which did not show an inaccuracy, just verified that I made accurate measurements with the coins.

And really what matters most is the response and sound being dialed in to a sweet spot for a guitar and who is playing the guitar. Simple.

 

[FuzzyAce]

If it works for you then I say use the method. Me personally, I never use anything for measuring string height even though I have feeler gauges and digital calipers. With new setups, I will check the radius at the bridge with a radius gauge to make sure it closely corresponds to the fingerboard. From there it's just dialing in the right amount of neck relief and adjusting saddle heights for optimal playability. I agree with @Eagle that each guitar needs its own setup formula though. Nut slots, frets, saddles, neck relief, string gauge etc. all play in to the end result so imo no 2 guitars are the same.

Pickup height is a personal thing so no right or wrong way technically. Experimentation works best because of pickup type and other gear choices.

 

[Eagle]

I see the points you're trying to make. Specifically I agree with the notion that the measurement you want has to do with the player, the player's guitar with the guitar’s pickups, string gauge, preference, playing style, etc.

Not suggesting that these measurements are what everyone needs on any guitar with any string gauge and any playing style. This wasn’t meant as an instructional post for anyone or everyone. You may be misunderstanding my post. This made this particular guitar and string gauge more ideal for me as a particular player with my playing style to get more optimal tonal response and feel, for me. Not for you, or your guitar with your strings and playing style with or for your money.

However,

it is plentifully accurate. You simply pay attention, look, and measure. If you displace the strings with the coins then it's not measured correctly by the coin's thickness and is instead measuring as less distance than the coins' thickness --> / displacing the strings. I can avoid displacing the strings with the coins just as efficiently as the string height gauge tool can be read accurately. The method is valid and can be as accurate as any string height gauge will be provided that you like the thickness that the dimes, pennies, and nickels measure.

I don’t play my Gibson anymore as I switched to a PRS, but



I just now budged the bridge pickup to the specs he suggested actually, and I think it’s even more so nice and even on all strings' volumes on all 3 pickup settings.

It works fine, just have to know to not displace the strings like you mentioned when measuring. Can easily use my String Height Gauge to verify as I did, which did not show an inaccuracy, just verified that I made accurate measurements with the coins.

And really what matters most is the response and sound being dialed in to a sweet spot for a guitar and who is playing the guitar. Simple.

This is just wrong. You can measure distance in playing cards but don’t. I like Jim and he is very good but no with this video. Use the John Suhr video if you want a method.

 

[Abe]

Well due to the fact that the D'Addario String Height Gauge agrees with my money it's a moot point, my adjustment is done, and is successful.

 

[likitlikeyoulikeit]

 

[Devin]

Nice moneys

 

[Alex Kenivel]

 

[norminal]

I’ve used hex wrenches before in a pinch. Nowadays, I dial in the outer strings by feel and then use a radius gauge for the rest.

If I’m setting up a guitar for a friend, I’ll use a Music Nomad action gauge to adjust to their requested spec.

 

[Jarick]

For string height I like the ruler gauge. It's worked pretty well. I always have my action on the high side according to the gauge. It's been a little more consistent than the decades of just eyeballing it.

For pickup height I dial it all in by ear. It depends on the guitar and the pickups.

 

[Abe]

My ears hear more than $ of course. Mostly I may have wanted to point out that with the PRS SE guitar, if you're familiar with what that is, + merely 16¢ I was able to have the playability and tonal response I was after while being a person with good enough ears to desire the intonation and pickup adjustment in the first place. Not everyone knows they want that.

Glad to know and be able to do something about it.

 

[Eagle]

Buy a decent action gauge and a Turbo Tuner if you want to do setups. Know your own setup on a particular instrument and how to replicate it starting with the truss rod .

 

[Abe]

I did just make my own truss rod adjustment to bring back the bouncy relief to my guitar.
It seemed to have slightly backbowed. 3/8ths of a counterclockwise turn was needed.
Intonation check.
There was no money involved.
Buzz free.

 

[Eagle]

I did just make my own truss rod adjustment to bring back the bouncy relief to my guitar.
It seemed to have slightly backbowed. 3/8ths of a counterclockwise turn was needed.
Intonation check.
There was no money involved.
Buzz free.

The correct amount of relief to maximise the next fret clearance is half the thickness of your high E.
Anymore than this compromises the upper register in favour of the first five frets. It is also progressively worse the tighter the radius . The effectiveness of the relief is also greatly dependent on the position of the bottom of the curve. Ideally under fret 7-8 then perfectly straight from 10 to the end . I similar amount of fall away cut in to the upper register helps too.

 

[Abe]

Half the thickness of the high E. Yea, seems to be about that. Though I admit I just brought it back from a buzzing backbow with no relief and eyeballed for just the slightest bounce in the relief. Any more back and I'd have more than the slightest suggestion of buzz.

 

[Eagle]

Half the thickness of the high E. Yea, seems to be about that. Though I admit I just brought it back from a buzzing backbow with no relief and eyeballed for just the slightest bounce in the relief. Any more back and I'd have more than the slightest suggestion of buzz.

Dead level can work with a very light touch.

 

[Abe]

I'm always going for what has a bit of subtle low fret buzz that doesn't come through plugged in, but I like it to sound alright unplugged as well.
I tend to mostly not apply excessive pressure or strangle the strings.
With past electrics I had only ever adjusted action via bridge and pup heights. Never had to tweak a truss rod.
This was my first truss rod adjustment with which I got over the intimidation factor of doing it.
I think this particular guitar just experienced some warp in storage before I bought it,
then 5+ weeks hanging around my air conditioner and it was in need of relief.

 

[Eagle]

Different styles of truss rods react very differently to heat and humidity changes. The most being a single vintage rod and the least a modern two way self contained straight channel rod. You have to get used to the feel of adjusting all the types and when something is wrong on one style it can feel exactly like another that is just fine.