SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

Size: I'd have a rearrange the whole board, to me personally, this outweighs the benefits.

Yeah well, been hassling with that for my first loopswitcher board as well, especially as I always need a case along with it. Turned out to become a custom built thing, which, while ordered as a DIY kit from the local case guru, still was quite expensive. But I kept using that very case for well over 20 years by now (even my latest board incarnation is still using it).
It's also that most typical premade boards won't work well with a loopswitcher as you ideally need two levels, so the cables running out from the back of the loopswitcher could completely run below the actual board level. That's been an easy to solve thing for me, though, I just measured things out and ordered a few ready-cut casewood strips and screwed them together accordingly (cost me 20 bucks or so).

Price: I give you that, €140 is fairly affordable. I've been looking at rather expensive upper-tier ones a few years ago, compared to the Mooer you mentioned, these would've been far outside of my comfort zone (for a mere QOL tool).

To be honest, I would've prefered one of the other contenders (had an eye on the ones from Moen, which are also pretty compact, decently priced and coming with some neat functions) but was rather short on money back then, so I tried the Mooer, which worked a lot better and lived a lot longer than I had expected (had to open it once to clean it and readjust some of the springs between the outer switch and the actual switch on the PCB).

Cables: I currently run a 10-pedal assembly (including a parallel loop blender) using 10 patch cables, all of them EBS Flats. Using 10 pedals in a loop switcher, without stacking, would mean 20 cables.

Defenitely a drawback. But then, once bought, it's done - and it's not that those patch cables would cost a fortune (fwiw, the cheap HB flat ones work as well as the EBS Flats, I have both kinds - and at least in a buffered environment there's no sound difference).

If I was a touring pro and have better gear budget/resources, along with people to transport my stuff, I'd definitely consider going all-in and putting pedals in rack drawers with a huge switching device, e.g. by RJM or such.

I used to use a rack with loopswitcher(s), but ultimately, I love not having to care about a rack and an additional floor controller. Grab pedalboard and that was it - I just love it. Also, once you go for decent rack units, things become expensive quickly.

Fwiw, I wish there were more modeling and FX solutions with analog loops onboard, such as the Tone Master Pro has. Or such as the Boss MS-3, which however has only FX, no modeling, but in case there was a somewhat bigger version (let's say with 6 switches and 1-2 additional loops), I'd defenitely consider it.
 
Post X Mas build 😬

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I need to do some serious cable management, but this is what my office pedalboard looks like so far. I may need to get some additional cables as well.

I like the BD-2W with both channels so far (particularly channel two), whereas I prefer the SD-1W with channel one. I may swap out the SD-1W and try the DS-1W to see how it reacts as a boost.

I'm not hating the size of the CBM95 Cry Baby Mini, but I need to pull the rubber stoppers and shorten then so it's not such an irritance to turn the wah on and off.

The Peterson Strobostomp HD is cool, but will take some getting used to. I plan to mess around with sweetened tunings at some point, as well.

Still experimenting with whether I use the Send output or balanced output on the IR-X. Otherwise, I'm enjoying it with the little bit I had to experiment with it last night. I will likely get a short MIDI cable so I can switch channels with the Boss MS-3.

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What's the EMG box doing?
Seems cool

 
Seems cool


Neat.
But can you guess what would ultimately happen to Mr. Franck?
I'd pack for a travel gig (hence grabbing the board without this thing on) and still have the EMG guitar without onboard batteries with me.
 
As stated above, it is a battery power box. I plan to try it with my Truetone CS7 or CS12 (on my bigger board) to see how it does at 18v from the power supply rather than batteries.
Sounds easier than the higher voltage mod battery I hobbled together when I had an EMG 81-7/707 loaded guitar. I enjoyed the increased headroom but it was finicky. Plus with that box I guess you can actually leave the guitar plugged in without dead batteries!
 
Sounds easier than the higher voltage mod battery I hobbled together when I had an EMG 81-7/707 loaded guitar. I enjoyed the increased headroom but it was finicky. Plus with that box I guess you can actually leave the guitar plugged in without dead batteries!
If you used the adapter or power supply on the board. The TRS cable stays on when plugged into a guitar, but turns off when you disconnect the guitar. The only thing I dislike is that the jacks should be on the opposite sides.
 
I usually use my IRX for direct recording. But I put this together just for kicks to try through my Katana 100w combo effects return and it kicks massive ass butts!

Also, running the BossEQ200 EQ A pre gain and EQB as post gain (actually post IRX send in this case) is pure magic.

And I usually like all fuzz first in chain but placing that FZ1W post my drive pedals is like having a Godzilla monster tone fuzzy boost of Sonic doom.

This is seriously making me question using my tube combos live.
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I usually use my IRX for direct recording. But I put this together just for kicks to try through my Katana 100w combo effects return and it kicks massive ass butts!

Also, running the BossEQ200 EQ A pre gain and EQB as post gain (actually post IRX send in this case) is pure magic.

And I usually like all fuzz first in chain but placing that FZ1W post my drive pedals is like having a Godzilla monster tone fuzzy boost of Sonic doom.

This is seriously making me question using my tube combos live.
View attachment 36435
What channel of the IR-X do you run the Guv'nor into? Also, tell me more about how you use the Boss EQ-200?
 
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