Line 6 Helix Stadium Talk

So here’s a question I never thought to ask. Are amp knob values (drive, BMT, etc) in Helix reflecting the tapers of the original circuits pots? Many pots have non linear tapers so it’s useful to know if 50% in the UI is the pot straight up or 50% of the full resistance available. I hope that question makes sense. I’d assume Helix reflects the tapers so the knob positions are 1-1 with where they’d be on the original circuit.
OG helix measured values across the whole range of the pots, so it’s not even matching the theoretical taper from the schematic - it’s measured directly from the reference amp. I’d be surprised if Agoura isn’t doing this too.
 
Well, I previously said no problems with editing over wifi. I don't know if it's the wifi component but the editor is buggy as hell. Makes things go out of sync really quick. I started having an issue where it wouldn't save the state of a block between snapshots and blocks wouldn't retain changes made in the editor between scenes. Closed the editor, rebooted the unit, saved the state of the block correctly. Recalled correctly. Editing on unit from now on because that works great.
 
Well, I previously said no problems with editing over wifi. I don't know if it's the wifi component but the editor is buggy as hell. Makes things go out of sync really quick. I started having an issue where it wouldn't save the state of a block between snapshots and blocks wouldn't retain changes made in the editor between scenes. Closed the editor, rebooted the unit, saved the state of the block correctly. Recalled correctly. Editing on unit from now on because that works great.
Yeah I’ll be glad when they get the bugs of how we connect to a computer resolved. Been a solid release in a lot areas but the WiFi bugs and the implementation of it’s connectivity in other ways are seriously annoying.
 
Conceivably, yes.
Sesame Street Eating GIF by Muppet Wiki
 
I didn't have time to record a clip, but I've put together a preset that shows how you can clean up some of the woof and crud around the notes on the BritPlexi model. My moves were pretty heavy handed - drop the z pre/post all the way to the left, bring the amp master down to 8, and bring sag all the way down as well. This takes a lot of the woofing out of the amp. Its not quite 70s SL and it takes some of the gain out of the amp, but I think I prefer this as a temporary work around before I give up on the model. There's a little hype in there but its not essential.

Overall I think I might need to move on and see if I can find what I'm looking for in other amp models. I like the Agoura BritPlexi with a strat or tele for mid gain tones, but its a spitty flubby mess with a LP and I just can't seem to get it to rock.
 

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I didn't have time to record a clip, but I've put together a preset that shows how you can clean up some of the woof and crud around the notes on the BritPlexi model. My moves were pretty heavy handed - drop the z pre/post all the way to the left, bring the amp master down to 8, and bring sag all the way down as well. This takes a lot of the woofing out of the amp. Its not quite 70s SL and it takes some of the gain out of the amp, but I think I prefer this as a temporary work around before I give up on the model. There's a little hype in there but its not essential.

Overall I think I might need to move on and see if I can find what I'm looking for in other amp models. I like the Agoura BritPlexi with a strat or tele for mid gain tones, but its a spitty flubby mess with a LP and I just can't seem to get it to rock.
And your normal drive is low?
 
And your normal drive is low?
I’m running a bright only. The jumped version accentuates what I’m not liking about that model.

I’m not saying there’s a problem. I’ve recorded or played some SLs that respond the way this model does. Just trying to point folks towards some possible options to try and stiffen/brighten it up a little.
 
I’m running a bright only. The jumped version accentuates what I’m not liking about that model.

I’m not saying there’s a problem. I’ve recorded or played some SLs that respond the way this model does. Just trying to point folks towards some possible options to try and stiffen/brighten it up a little.
Too me this this guy gets that classic Hot plexi
His settings are extreme but might be worth checking out
He also boosts later and it helps tighten and sound killer IMO

 
. I’ve recorded or played some SLs that respond the way this model does.
My Suhr SL68 can be a bit woofie on its own and depending on my mic placement that can be more evident in recordings. I’ve not found many Marshall plexi types that aren’t heavily modded that won’t sound a bit loose on the bottom end. Almost all Plexi style amps IMHO need some tightening up for some tones. Loading my Suhr into the Fryette and a choice pedal to tighten up the amp is what I do in the real world. I just try to mimic that in digital world.

Thanks for the tips. I’ll have to try some of these out.
 
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Too me this this guy gets that classic Hot plexi
His settings are extreme but might be worth checking out
He also boosts later and it helps tighten and sound killer IMO


Those settings (BMT dimed) do seem extreme at a glance but that’s actually a pretty common setup when trying to get more aggressive crunch out of a SL. I run my own SL that way. When you do that on the BritPlexi it completely falls apart into this weird spitty thing with a strange pick attack.
 
My Suhr SL68 that can be a bit woofie on its own and depending on my mic placement that can be more evident in recordings. I’ve not found many Marshall plexi types that aren’t heavily molded that won’t sound a bit loose on the bottom end. Almost all Plexi style amps IMHO need some tightening up for some tones. Loading my Suhr into the Fryette and a choice pedal to tighten up the amp is what I do in the real world. I just try to mimic that in digital world.

Thanks for the tips. I’ll have to try some of these out.
The SL68 is IMO a great example of a late 60s Marshall. I’d actually expect yours to sound and feel a lot closer to the Agoura BritPlexi than my 70s spec 1959. What have your impressions been of the Agoura Plexi compared to your Suhr?
 
What in the ever living fuck are you doing?

Conspiracy Theory Glasses GIF by nounish ⌐◨-◨

In essence, I'm pondering how I can utilise Stadium as a kind of central command centre for my entire board, and figuring out what would go on it, what board I would use, etc etc.

Things I know:
- I don't want to be tied to the DSP inside Stadium alone.
- But I know that I'm happy with the modulation effects, the gates, the compressors, and the drives.
- I'm happy with the non-digital delays, and the more creative delays (glitch delay for example)
- I prefer my outboard pedals for digital delay - Source Audio Nemesis, or Boss DD-500.
- I prefer my outboard reverb pedals - Meris MercuryX, Boss RV-5, and Source Audio Ventris.
- I want to use my real wah pedal.
- I want a flat board, not an angled board.

Things I don't know:
- Where the VP4 fits in all this.
- Whether I'm happy to just use the Stadium's expression pedal as my volume control, or continue with my Lehle.
- The unknown unknowns
 
How good is the power amp modelling compared to regular helix and also axe fx?

It's one of the things I really, really like about fractal.
I definitely feel like it's better for the new models. It seems to actually make a difference (and something you need to be aware of). Very similar to fractal where, for example, I need to make sure the master volume is low on a 5153 or lower on the 2203 if I want to crank a SD1 in front.
 
Those settings (BMT dimed) do seem extreme at a glance but that’s actually a pretty common setup when trying to get more aggressive crunch out of a SL. I run my own SL that way. When you do that on the BritPlexi it completely falls apart into this weird spitty thing with a strange pick attack.
That is odd because even in that clip he is running it through EL84 and even then it not coming apart
Does the Tubescreamer boost tighten it up at all or just add more messy spitty thing
It might just be the model as you said a 60s being more like a JTM45 in response
 
It might just be the model as you said a 60s being more like a JTM45 in response
This is my leading theory but admittedly a wild guess. I have no idea what was actually modeled. I really like the rest of the Agoura amps so I’m inclined to give L6 the benefit of the doubt. I think it does the 60s thing pretty well.
 
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