Is a KT66 amp inherently loose in the bottom end?

Coming back to this amp, it’s become my favorite. Not just of my current collection but I’m pretty sure it’s my favorite of all time. I’ve been pulling back the gain on both channels below 10 o’clock and boosting with the Mick side of a Kelley D&M Drive. It’s supremely tasty.
 
Coming back to this amp, it’s become my favorite. Not just of my current collection but I’m pretty sure it’s my favorite of all time. I’ve been pulling back the gain on both channels below 10 o’clock and boosting with the Mick side of a Kelley D&M Drive. It’s supremely tasty.

Yes, it's really great! Kind of like a JTM/800 hybrid (at least in High Dynamic Range/boosted mode).
 
My personal experience is that people over attribute differences to power tubes. Can’t count how many times I’ve heard people say something is “Marshall inspired” because it has an EL34 power section.

IMO actual circuit design is what matters. Things like tonestack placement, filtering, etc matter much more - especially given that virtually none of us are gigging with cranked 100 watters anymore.
 
… but you get the same thing by rolling back the volume. I just wish it would be at HDR on startup.
how do you get a JTM45 with the volume rolled back? Both tones are equally valid, I’m quite happy to have a button that makes a stock JTM
I never used it, but apparently it’s pretty sweet and JTM-like if you dime the master volume? Also a good pedal platform, I’ve heard.
yeah, IMO LDR mode needs the MV cranked or else you choke the tone a bit. HDR mode sounds a bit more balanced with the MV a bit lower to me
 
Like a real McCoy 66?
Clayton owns the OG KT66.
Depends on the inherent voicing/filtering.
The Ground Zero dude uses them in his amps.
 
nah, that’s more of a typical marshall MV. The only Marshalls with PPIMV are Vintage Modern, 2150, 2159 l, 2144 and some Parks
Maybe I’m mixing up my acronyms. I thought the JVM was vintage modern. In either event your clarification answered my question. :rofl
 
LDR at 10 on your guitar volume is the same tone as HDR at 4 on your guitar volume.
Right, but what about LDR with my guitar volume at 4?

The extra gain stage isn’t in front of the amp so it’s not really the same thing as just lowering the input a bit (although maybe it does the job for you). I use both modes equally often and having the more “stock” JTM45 mode makes the amp more useful to me.
 
Saying a power tube type is "loose" is like saying a pickup is "loose."

It's not.

No power tube is inherently "loose," just like no pickup is inherently "loose." The word "loose" in the context of guitar, specifically, is a word describing what happens when low frequency content becomes distorted to the point that it interferes with and muddies up the frequency content above it.

A passive pickup always outputs a completely clean signal. A preamp can become oversaturated and produce a loose and muddy sound if enough gain is dialed in and the preamp doesn't have sufficient low end filtering at the amp's input, but that's not the pickup being loose, but rather the way the preamp processes and distorts the low end from the pickup causing the looseness.

All power tube types distort in roughly the same way into a resistive load. If any given power section of any given power tube type is distorting in a way that sounds "loose" and muddy while the preamp is clean when the amp is turned down, it's due to too much total output volume and relative low end from the preamp being sent to the poweramp. But any tube type is going to behave in a similar way, not just KT66's.

If you turn down your amp's output volume to something like TV volume level and you're still getting a loose and muddy signal, then it's your preamp producing the looseness and the poweramp is simply cleanly reproducing the preamp's distorted looseness at all volumes, just like how listening to a recording of a distorted guitar through a high end stereo at low volume won't clean up the distorted guitar.

If your preamp sounds tight and you turn up your amp's output volume and it distorts and gets loose and muddy before you reach your desired volume, then your power section simply isn't powerful enough overall, but again that's true regardless of power tube type. In that case, you could build a 150w KT66 power section using six KT66 tubes and if you kept the same output volume, the looseness would clear right up even though you're still using KT66 tubes.
 
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