Is a KT66 amp inherently loose in the bottom end?

[FuzzyAce]

If you have a set laying around, you could try 6L6GCs with a rebias?
Not sure it'll make a huge difference though.

 

[HomespunEffects]

I’m not asking how can i palm mute with my 2466. I’m asking if the looseness is caused by the KT66s.

I’m going to plug the Effect Send from the 2466 into the Effect Return of the DSL40C.

 

[HomespunEffects]

If you have a set laying around, you could try 6L6GCs with a rebias?
Not sure it'll make a huge difference though.

I do have a couple extra sets.

 

[GreatGreen]

Unless you're playing that 100w amp so loud that you're distorting the power section, it's not the power tubes. It's the preamp circuit.

 

[HomespunEffects]

Unless you're playing that 100w amp so loud that you're distorting the power section, it's not the power tubes. It's the preamp circuit.

Then plugging them preamp into the effects return of the DSL should prove that theory.

 

[MirrorProfiles]

JTM45’s are generally boomy/loose in the low end. Swapping poweramp valves won’t change the fact that the circuit allows more bass through than other Marshalls.

could swap the 0.022 coupling caps for 0.0022, I think the PI coupling caps also let more low end through. Or just use an EQ pedal and cut some lows before the preamp.

 

[FuzzyAce]

Well if it's similar to a JTM45 then that would mean V1 bias cap is around 220µF. Changing that to 25µF or even .68µF would make a big difference.

 

[HomespunEffects]

JTM45’s are generally boomy/loose in the low end. Swapping poweramp valves won’t change the fact that the circuit allows more bass through than other Marshalls.

could swap the 0.022 coupling caps for 0.0022, I think the PI coupling caps also let more low end through. Or just use an EQ pedal and cut some lows before the preamp.

Now we’re getting somewhere. I can easily swap some caps.

 

[HomespunEffects]

Well if it's similar to a JTM45 then that would mean V1 bias cap is around 220µF. Changing that to 25µF or even .68µF would make a big difference.

I’m in for trying this.

 

[MirrorProfiles]

Now we’re getting somewhere. I can easily swap some caps.

presumably it wouldn’t take too much work to make this into something like a Dirty Shirley (JCM800 front end with JTM45 poweramp). Dave Friedman and Jason Tong (@Burger ) have done some great mods for these amps that sound fantastic.

 

[FuzzyAce]

I’m in for trying this.

I'm not 100% sure what the VM has there in that position now -- but if it's 220µF then that could be where some of the wooly-ness is coming from. I don't always mind a high value there, I actually like a 150µF and then do what @MirrorProfiles recommends by adjusting some coupling caps. But I've made some amps where I'll put a selector switch for the V1 bias to have options.

 

[HomespunEffects]

I'm not 100% sure what the VM has there in that position now -- but if it's 220µF then that could be where some of the wooly-ness is coming from. I don't always mind a high value there, I actually like a 150µF and then do what @MirrorProfiles recommends by adjusting some coupling caps. But I've made some amps where I'll put a selector switch for the V1 bias to have options.

The Detail channel has a 220nF cathode bypass cap and the Body channel has a 220uF bypass cap. The coupling caps to the next stage are Detail 1nF and Body 22nF..

 

[HomespunEffects]

Hmmm. The mid boost is in the Body channel could also be the culprit. I wonder if I could clip that out and give it a try.

 

[FuzzyAce]

The Detail channel has a 220nF cathode bypass cap and the Body channel has a 220uF bypass cap. The coupling caps to the next stage of are Detail 1nF and Body 22nF..

Ok, I found the schematic. I'd start with the 220µF, change it to 25µF and go from there. Could be all it needs to satisfy what you're hearing/feeling.

 

[AutomationBias]

The KT66..-the gravy without the train.
It’s a world of milkshake in a tube.
The real deal Genalex NOS 66’s.
Those are sick af.
335 neck pick-up,-no more flippin’ burgers..,
-Saturday you go out and play..

I have a Route 66 and it's spectacular through the right speakers. Three knobs, everything at 3 o'clock. Doesn't get plinky when you roll back the volume. I just had my tech go through mine and I think I might like it better than the plexi I just bought.

 

[HomespunEffects]

Ok, I found the schematic. I'd start with the 220µF, change it to 25µF and go from there. Could be all it needs to satisfy what you're hearing/feeling.

I need to make one of the knobs a pull switch so I can switch between the caps. Just to make sure I’m hearing what I’m thinking I’m hearing.

 

[FuzzyAce]

I need to make one of the knobs a pull switch so I can switch between the caps. Just to make sure I’m hearing what I’m thinking I’m hearing.

I guess you could but I'd want to test it before installing a new pot. You could get some different value caps and experiment with some test leads first. Once you're happy with a couple values - maybe then add a switch?

 

[HomespunEffects]

I’ve been meaning to build a decade box for this very purpose. I guess it’s time.

 

[FuzzyAce]

That would be ideal. Very useful

 

[spawnofthesith]

My ENGL thunder has been outfitted with KT66s and it sounds plenty tight to me