IK Multimedia TONEX

[Chocol8]

I got the 4.3b up and running during a conference call. Honestly, the most difficult part of the process was getting my old Windows desktop that hasn't booted in a year to see a blue tooth mouse! Otherwise, it was super simple. I wired up a 9v female port to the first two pins (4.3B only!!! others need 5 volts!), and then followed the instructions on this page to do the software load and configure it to be a wifi client: https://gsus4.com.au/blogs/news-promo/what-if-there-was-a-screen-for-ik-tonex-one-step-by-step-guide and DONE!

From there it is just give it power, connect to a Tonex One and it just works! I am actually powering it (and the One) with a USB to 9v cable and a battery right now and it seems to be working really well. It is interesting that there is a bit of a lag for the screen to update to changes, but the Tonex One is reacting very quickly. I will try to get a case designed and printed this weekend or over the holiday, but I am still deciding if I want to add switches on the box or external, or keep it switchless and just use the screen, phone/iPad, and midi over BT. I will definitely be ordering a couple of Zero's to make smaller lower power draw versions to stick under my pedal boards. I think I should be able to make a decent portable board out of a PT Nano+ with one of these, the One, a few analog pedals and power all off a battery bank for a super portable rig.

 

[Sascha Franck]

https://gsus4.com.au/blogs/news-promo/what-if-there-was-a-screen-for-ik-tonex-one-step-by-step-guide and DONE!

Oh, that looks as even I could do it.
Well, I'd need wired MIDI for all my use cases, so...

I think I should be able to make a decent portable board out of a PT Nano+ with one of these, the One, a few analog pedals and power all off a battery bank for a super portable rig.

Yeah, that was one of my ideas for a future setup as well - but I'd defenitely look for something to do the delay/verb thing (ideally in one MIDI-controllable unit), because the TXO can't even do FX trails when you switch things on/off within a patch (for which there is no real reason, I think).

Anyhow, it's amazing what you can do with that little thing once the Builty Controller comes into play. The way it works along with the GT-1000 is just absolutely kickass. Super low noise, very dynamic (ignore all the folks trying to tell you the GT-1000 is noisy on itself, they either don't know how to deal with it or aren't using sufficient PSUs - and unfortunately the one it ships with is pretty bad, too), gapless switching, FX spillovers and global blocks (which, especially with the TXO, can be utilized quite cleverly, IMO, I may elaborate a bit later on...).

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

I got the 4.3b up and running during a conference call. Honestly, the most difficult part of the process was getting my old Windows desktop that hasn't booted in a year to see a blue tooth mouse! Otherwise, it was super simple. I wired up a 9v female port to the first two pins (4.3B only!!! others need 5 volts!), and then followed the instructions on this page to do the software load and configure it to be a wifi client: https://gsus4.com.au/blogs/news-promo/what-if-there-was-a-screen-for-ik-tonex-one-step-by-step-guide and DONE!

From there it is just give it power, connect to a Tonex One and it just works! I am actually powering it (and the One) with a USB to 9v cable and a battery right now and it seems to be working really well. It is interesting that there is a bit of a lag for the screen to update to changes, but the Tonex One is reacting very quickly. I will try to get a case designed and printed this weekend or over the holiday, but I am still deciding if I want to add switches on the box or external, or keep it switchless and just use the screen, phone/iPad, and midi over BT. I will definitely be ordering a couple of Zero's to make smaller lower power draw versions to stick under my pedal boards. I think I should be able to make a decent portable board out of a PT Nano+ with one of these, the One, a few analog pedals and power all off a battery bank for a super portable rig.

Nice, sounds about the same as my experience. Super easy to get it working. I power my Zero with a cheap power bank for now and it has no problems powering the TO either.

Was thinking that a dual footswitch enclosure might have enough room for a Zero somehow, and that the TRS plug might be used for power? Would need a hole for the USB-C cable as well though but a fun way to hide the Zero! I’ll probably stick with BT, it’s was so easy to set up.

 

[Sascha Franck]

Hm, I should really invest whether I can cobble these things together myself. Really unexperienced in that stuff, though. The most I've managed to do when it comes to electronic soldering skills (apart from doing guitar circuits, which I usually manage doing just fine) was an A/B switch and a bunch of EXP switches.
Also seems as if cabled MIDI is the somewhat tougher part, and I'd need that in any case.

Anyhow, I can see two more TXOs (in addition to the two I already have) coming into my life at one point in time. One as a standalone with a touchscreen controller and two onboard switches as an emergency setup, the other one for the Stomp setup.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

Hm, I should really invest whether I can cobble these things together myself. Really unexperienced in that stuff, though. The most I've managed to do when it comes to electronic soldering skills (apart from doing guitar circuits, which I usually manage doing just fine) was an A/B switch and a bunch of EXP switches.
Also seems as if cabled MIDI is the somewhat tougher part, and I'd need that in any case.

Anyhow, I can see two more TXOs (in addition to the two I already have) coming into my life at one point in time. One as a standalone with a touchscreen controller and two onboard switches as an emergency setup, the other one for the Stomp setup.

Since the MIDI module that is compatible costs like 7-8 euros I’ve been thinking of getting one and trying to get it connected. I also bought the Zero with presoldered pins so I don’t need to do more than solder cables and then the connections on the MIDI board.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

Nice, had a colleague who was eager to print me a case for the Zero as well! Hope it fits with the pins but might buy another board without for an even more snug solution.

 

[Chocol8]

Hm, I should really invest whether I can cobble these things together myself.

The hardest part for you will be soldering on fairly small contacts for the Zero, the power converter if needed, the MIDI board and if you want the external foot pedals, that board. The instructions on where to put the wires is pretty easy to follow, and if you can solder at all and have a parts holder and magnifier it should be doable.

The touch screen 4.3B doesn't need a power step down and has screw terminals so it is super easy (you would still need to solder the MIDI board), but it draws a LOT more power to power the screen. OK if plugged in but not ideal for a battery powered "fly" rig.

 

[Chocol8]

Was thinking that a dual footswitch enclosure might have enough room for a Zero somehow, and that the TRS plug might be used for power? Would need a hole for the USB-C cable as well though but a fun way to hide the Zero! I’ll probably stick with BT, it’s was so easy to set up.

You could definitely hide the Zero in a foot switch enclosure. Since you have to drill a hole for the USB-C, I would also add a 9v female socket, or a hole to run the wire out if you are going to power off a USB-A port. There should be room to include a voltage step down board if you go with 9v, but no problem for sure if you have 5v power via USB.

My plan for the Zero's is to skip the 9v and power them off a battery bank or the USB port on my CIOKS DC-7's which are unused on both pedal boards right now. The 4.3 is pretty power hungry, so that will be 9v.

My other thought is to put 4 pin M8 connectors on each case and then put the external switch breakout board in a foot switch box which can have up to 16 switches! That could then connect to any of the Waveshare devices through 4 wire I2C.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

The hardest part for you will be soldering on fairly small contacts for the Zero, the power converter if needed, the MIDI board and if you want the external foot pedals, that board. The instructions on where to put the wires is pretty easy to follow, and if you can solder at all and have a parts holder and magnifier it should be doable.

The touch screen 4.3B doesn't need a power step down and has screw terminals so it is super easy (you would still need to solder the MIDI board), but it draws a LOT more power to power the screen. OK if plugged in but not ideal for a battery powered "fly" rig.

I was also thinking of going with the 4.3” screen, which can be bought in a case as well. Then I realized I would not have enough power from my HB PowerStation to actually power it… Neat that it’s variable voltage in to the screen though, up to 36V, and you don’t need to solder the power cables.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

My plan for the Zero's is to skip the 9v and power them off a battery bank or the USB port on my CIOKS DC-7's which are unused on both pedal boards right now. The 4.3 is pretty power hungry, so that will be 9v.

I’m thinking about doing something similar since I already have a USB-A to 9V adapter that can power my comp, two OD’s and potentially the BT MIDI footswitch. So a 2-port USB-A power bank could power the whole board probably for quite a while.

Then I need to get a USB-C adapter to power the HX Stomp and that can go on a separate power bank or wall wart…

 

[Chocol8]

My other thought is to put 4 pin M8 connectors on each case and then put the external switch breakout board in a foot switch box

So, I just had a better idea for connectors. I am going to wire up USB-A connectors to the I2C pads on the Zero's and the 1509's in the foot switches. That should allow me to connect external foot switch boxes with up to 16 switches with a standard A to A usb cable. Plus, the connectors are flat and will allow for a significantly thinner case than the round M8.

My sparkfun 1509 boards won't arrive until the end of the month, so it will be a bit before I can test this, but it should work.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

So back to Tonex tones a bit… I have a small ”wish list” at the moment on captures I’d like to get a hold of. Does anyone have any favorites (or self-made) for these? Preferably V2 captures.

- Well rounded Marshall. 2203 that can go from almost clean to being boosted into metal territory.

- Collection of JP2C, Mark V or VII captures. I’ve never really bonded and experienced the Marks so is there a nice collection of captures?

- Preamp-only Synergy caps! I’d like to try out some of the Synergy preamps into my FB25. I tried out the SLO module caps posted here earlier and they were really fun! Would be nice with some more of them.

 

[Sascha Franck]

Done. Nice and tidy, very comfortable to use. In case I plug something into the optional 2nd out, only the acoustic patch is automatically routed there, in case I leave it free, everything comes out of the DI box out. Could as well use the 2nd out for my monitor feed and control its volume independently.
Boot time of everything is around 5 seconds.
If I wanted, this would as well fit into one half of a double gig bag.

I also have an entirely free 9V outlet (500mA) left, will possibly come up with a little side-car having 2-3 choice pedals on it that I can then easily slap into loop 1 (which right now only has the Rated Boost in it).

Really, really happy how this turned out.

 

[riffy]

Treating NAM and Tonex as the amp and cabinet in a pedal set up is absolutely the way to go.

Everyone talks about all in one solutions. For me, those solutions are usually larger than the pedalboard I use. So far to my ears both Tonex and NAM are the best amplifier sounds. I have heard. Bar none.

 

[Progressive_disclosure]

And NAM are Treating Tonex as the amp and cabinet in a pedal set up is absolutely the way to go.

Everyone talks about all in one solutions. For me, those solutions are usually larger than the pedalboard I use. So far to my ears both Tonex and NAM are the best amplifier sounds. I have heard. Bar none.

Yeah I’m actually having a hard time GAS’ing for a Helix Stadium when the cheapo Tonex One sounds so good now. Especially high gain stuff compared to the videos that have dropped for Stadium.

And without amp my HX Stomp can do some heavy FX lifting so I’m super happy and it’s still much more compact than a lot of other setups.

 

[Sascha Franck]

Yeah I’m actually having a hard time GAS’ing for a Helix Stadium when the cheapo Tonex One sounds so good now.

Pretty much the same here.
Once the TXO touchscreen controller is done and sent to me, I'll reconfigure the big board as well and possibly just call it a day for a while to come.
I defenitely kinda lust after a non-XL Stadium, but I'm afraid that some stuff either won't be there any day soon (such as global blocks) and that other things possibly haven't even seen an improvement (such as the way under-lit LEDs). And I'm massively enjoying (well, rather: making use of) global blocks and both the GTs and the TXOs deliver excellent status visibility.
Sure, dialing in new patches is quite a chore, but for gigs I don't need to do that often anyway and for recording there's plugins offering all the fun in the world.

 

[Shask]

Yeah I’m actually having a hard time GAS’ing for a Helix Stadium when the cheapo Tonex One sounds so good now. Especially high gain stuff compared to the videos that have dropped for Stadium.

And without amp my HX Stomp can do some heavy FX lifting so I’m super happy and it’s still much more compact than a lot of other setups.

Not having an all-in-one is kind of strange to me, but to be honest, even if I plugged it into my FM3, I would basically use it is a giant delay pedal.

The ToneX has really got me thinking about what I like to play with, vs what I actually use.

 

[EOengineer]

So back to Tonex tones a bit… I have a small ”wish list” at the moment on captures I’d like to get a hold of. Does anyone have any favorites (or self-made) for these? Preferably V2 captures.

- Well rounded Marshall. 2203 that can go from almost clean to being boosted into metal territory.

- Collection of JP2C, Mark V or VII captures. I’ve never really bonded and experienced the Marks so is there a nice collection of captures?

- Preamp-only Synergy caps! I’d like to try out some of the Synergy preamps into my FB25. I tried out the SLO module caps posted here earlier and they were really fun! Would be nice with some more of them.

I’m not at my gear right now so sorry for the vagueness. Filter tonenet by V2 captures and you’ll see a user that overwhelmingly has V2 Marshall caps. They have a number of the best digital 2203 sounds I’ve played. Better than amalgam. They were free. I’ll try to look later tonight.

 

[riffy]

This Hyde Street Amp Locker has some amazing sounds in it also. I have loaded up an AC 10 and I’m using an amalgam IR with it. Just holy crap what a killer Vox sound!

I’m still not able to play for crap right now, but I’m so enjoying the sounds.

 

[Dimiguitar]

As to the stadium, there's obviously a bazillion features in these units. Maybe my needs would change in the future, but for the time being, there's no reason for me to buy a stadium,

Tonex one at this point sounds and feels stupid good. V2 somehow got me into a rabbit hole of capturing stuff. I'm getting some of the best tones I've ever had.

At this point, tonex one has replaced my fm3 as the unit/plugin that gets the most use. This wouldn't have been possible without capturing amps myself, but here we are.