MirrorProfiles
Rock Star
- Messages
- 3,109
Figured this deserved its own thread.
First I would recommend calibrating to 0.707vRMS=-12dBFS here: https://thegearforum.com/threads/calibrating-helix-native-input-level.816/
This will give you an accurate calibration for using Helix Native, and seems to work very well for Neural DSP+Mercuriall Plugins. You can also use this calibration, and set STL's Amphub and Tonality plugins input level to +6dB and have those properly calibrated.
I should mention that the DI chain can be calibrated in any number of ways - I followed @James Freeman 's Helix guide as it seems to be a calibration level that works for several different modelling platforms while still retaining some headroom. On several amp models, they really come to life with the input cranked like this. Whats bizarre is that you'd have to be an absolute maniac to set your input level like this, as I get the internal clipping light on basically all the time. There's enough amp models that I own the real equivalents of and at +12dB most of them behave much more similarly to the real thing (take SJ50's red channel for instance, the real amp should barely have a clean sound in it). At +12dB I still get a nice range of tones from the plexi style amps too, and they also behave much like my Marshall's do.
I seem to think a couple of models got a bit farty and needed their level dropped, but I'm finding it better to keep the input at +12dB and drop, rather than keeping it at 0 and guessing every time.
If you haven't had much luck with Amplitube in the past, I'd recommend trying this.
First I would recommend calibrating to 0.707vRMS=-12dBFS here: https://thegearforum.com/threads/calibrating-helix-native-input-level.816/
This will give you an accurate calibration for using Helix Native, and seems to work very well for Neural DSP+Mercuriall Plugins. You can also use this calibration, and set STL's Amphub and Tonality plugins input level to +6dB and have those properly calibrated.
I should mention that the DI chain can be calibrated in any number of ways - I followed @James Freeman 's Helix guide as it seems to be a calibration level that works for several different modelling platforms while still retaining some headroom. On several amp models, they really come to life with the input cranked like this. Whats bizarre is that you'd have to be an absolute maniac to set your input level like this, as I get the internal clipping light on basically all the time. There's enough amp models that I own the real equivalents of and at +12dB most of them behave much more similarly to the real thing (take SJ50's red channel for instance, the real amp should barely have a clean sound in it). At +12dB I still get a nice range of tones from the plexi style amps too, and they also behave much like my Marshall's do.
I seem to think a couple of models got a bit farty and needed their level dropped, but I'm finding it better to keep the input at +12dB and drop, rather than keeping it at 0 and guessing every time.
If you haven't had much luck with Amplitube in the past, I'd recommend trying this.
Last edited:
