So, what do I have to do to fix my SG’s neck dive?

The old tuners:
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9.31 oz
The new tuners:
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5.19 oz
 
I’d like to report that the neck dive is greatly alleviated. I have to let it go and bend over letting the guitar dangle on the strap and it will dive every so slightly. I’m going to dump the strap lock on the back and replace it with an over sized button so the guitar doesn’t tilt forward. Then it may be good to go.
 
I’d like to report that the neck dive is greatly alleviated. I have to let it go and bend over letting the guitar dangle on the strap and it will dive every so slightly. I’m going to dump the strap lock on the back and replace it with an over sized button so the guitar doesn’t tilt forward. Then it may be good to go.
You could use a Dunlop recessed button on the back and a regular Dunlop on the bottom.
 
You would need to commit because it’s a different hole.
Well, maybe not then. I know I don’t like them. The oversized buttons are more low profile and if I don’t like it there then it’s time to move the strap button to the horn.
 
Oh, and winding the last wrap on top does improve tuning stability.

I smoothed the nut slots with some abrasive floss and added a touch of lubricant and strung it up. I did a messy job as I’m used to locking tuners and I rushed it, but is holding tune very nicely.
 
Well, maybe not then. I know I don’t like them. The oversized buttons are more low profile and if I don’t like it there then it’s time to move the strap button to the horn.
That is worse. I had to convert a few back that people tried it on.
 
Yeah, i wanted to move the weight as close to the nut as possible.
I switched the tuning machines around to the regular way as I didn’t like having to turn the keys the wrong way to tune. However, it did make a very small imbalance. If I can swap the worms around on the gears I could change it to turn the right way but the change is so small that I am thinking that I can live with it.

I also swapped on the original oversized strap button. Now the guitar hangs properly front to back.

I think this one is ready and as long as it stays in tune, I’ll feel confident using it.
 
Install a Bigsby for a counterweight. Or install some lead fishing weights in the control cavity on the back of the guitar. Make sure to cover the lead weights with some insulating tape though.
 
Install a Bigsby for a counterweight. Or install some lead fishing weights in the control cavity on the back of the guitar. Make sure to cover the lead weights with some insulating tape though.
Bigsby would change the tone and trash the tuning stability.
 
Bigsby would change the tone and trash the tuning stability.
I got 4 Bigsbys on Gretsches and the tuning stability is great. It's usually strings binding in the nut that cause tuning instability. You just got to make sure the nut slots are sanded smooth and put a little graphite or nut lube in the nut slots when changing strings.

As far as changing the tone, the added mass might change the tone for the better, or maybe not. Hard to say, but all my Bigsby guitars got very good tone.
 
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I got 4 Bigsbys on Gretsches and the tuning stability is great. It's usually strings binding in the nut that cause tuning instability. You just got to make sure the nut slots are sanded smooth and put a little graphite or nut lube in the nut slots when changing strings.

As far as changing the tone, the added mass might change the tone for the better, or maybe not. Hard to say, but all my Bigsby guitars got very good tone.
Yes but there is a bar on the unit for an sg that greatly increases the string angle over the bridge. Good for tone but terrible for tuning. I am a tech so keeping a Bigsby is tune is something I do .
 
Yes but there is a bar on the unit for an sg that greatly increases the string angle over the bridge. Good for tone but terrible for tuning. I am a tech so keeping a Bigsby is tune is something I do .
You mean the Towner bar?

I am a player, my Bigsbys with Towner bars stay in tune, as well as the other Bigsbys I got.

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