The 8dBu spec was on their website, guessing the manual will have everything too.
If you’re reamping, you’ll want to be able to output a decent enough signal level. Especially because many reamp boxes attenuate the signal by some amount, and even the best ones might get 1:1 or only a little more.
Same goes if you’re using analog HW, you won’t be able to hit it with a particularly loud signal. and it can be annoying if the A/D and D/A aren’t aligned to the same calibration because your levels will change when going out and back in. Depending on your monitoring, you might want to send a slightly louder signal to them too (even if you’re attenuating with a monitor controller you may want to optimise the range of levels and background noise and resolution etc).
The same sort of thing is true for the A/D, having more headroom just means you can accept a wider range of sources without issues. If you have great SNR specs AND a lot of headroom you can record with plenty of space for peaks and no noise to worry about. If you have less headroom to work with, the same input signals will be closer to clipping. Having adjustable calibration is even better, and quite common these days.
When you read that -18dBFS stuff online, it’s usually with the assumption of having 22dBu of headroom. That means 0VU=4dBu=-18dBFS. I tend to think of 22dBu as a kind of ballpark “standard”. Having a bit more to work with is better, and I wouldn’t lose much sleep over having a little less. But it’s a spec worth paying attention to, especially when mixing and matching gear.