Graph Tech introduces new nut for Floyd Rose bridges

norminal said:
Did you sand the bottom of the nut to dial in the string height at the nut?

How does it fair with say, dive bombs? Does it stay in tune?
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1. Yes, that's right! And also along the sides a small amount to make it flush with the edges of the nut shelf.

2. It definitely stays in tune. I've got a Floyd Rose on that guitar and Hipshot staggered, locking tuners. No binding at the nut whatsoever.

Good luck!
 
Bill Edwards had a finger locking system. I had one on a 1987 Carvin V220, no tools needed.

Story is that he contracted Schaller to do it, under Floyd Rose's advice .... bad choice, Schaller did a crappy version of it and it failed.
I was luck enough to get an Original Bill Edwards at the Hollywood Guitar Center back in 1988.

unnamed.jpg
 
Diary Of An Axeman said:
Bill Edwards had a finger locking system. I had one on a 1987 Carvin V220, no tools needed.

Story is that he contracted Schaller to do it, under Floyd Rose's advice .... bad choice, Schaller did a crappy version of it and it failed.
I was luck enough to get an Original Bill Edwards at the Hollywood Guitar Center back in 1988.

View attachment 34332
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I bought a behind the nut lock just a few years ago from Bill directly, and it was great! The guitar was terrible, but it is a great device. It looks like his site has since gone defunct, unfortunately.
 
J_Hotch said:
1. Yes, that's right! And also along the sides a small amount to make it flush with the edges of the nut shelf.

2. It definitely stays in tune. I've got a Floyd Rose on that guitar and Hipshot staggered, locking tuners. No binding at the nut whatsoever.

Good luck!
Click to expand...
While waiting for my parts to arrive, I started to wonder about tuning.

Graph Tech seems to imply that with the Un Lock Nut you go back to tuning at the headstock. Is that your experience? Are you using the fine tuners at all? Seems like the fine tuners would be less likely to unbalance the trem...but idk....
 
The traditional hold down bar is going to be a point of friction so it would be nice if they made that piece as well. Otherwise some staggered locking tuners is what I would use, at least on a flat headstock with no angle. It's a cool idea and I have converted a few over the years as a custom solution at peoples request. Various degrees of success.
 
Seems like a solution looking for a problem to me. Which I like. I have even been known to make a few myself.
 
Never owned a Floyd, but this looks a lot easier to manage with locking tuners and a locking tremolo.
 
If you have a Floyd use it as it is . This is for you to use on a neck routed for the nut but either a non fine tune bridge or a hard tail. You can’t use the retaining bar with this and expect it to work.
On the Bill Edwards nut ; they are very temperamental and often slip. You need a Floyd nut squeaky tight to work reliably. These things don’t work as well as the stock Floyd items.
I see the point of the unlock nut but only on a guitar without fine tuning on the bridge.
 
If you’re going to use this I see very little point in having a locking bridge.

Locking only really makes sense if it’s both the bridge and the nut so the string is locked at both contact points and doesn’t have any points it passes over something that could cause friction.
 
metropolis_4 said:
If you’re going to use this I see very little point in having a locking bridge.

Locking only really makes sense if it’s both the bridge and the nut so the string is locked at both contact points and doesn’t have any points it passes over something that could cause friction.
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Not true the locking Gotoh and Wilkinson saddles make a huge difference to tuning stability but the nut and tuners need to be right.
Look at the Charvel GG.
 
Eagle said:
Not true the locking Gotoh and Wilkinson saddles make a huge difference to tuning stability but the nut and tuners need to be right.
Look at the Charvel GG.
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I’m sure it helps, but the majority of tuning issues I’ve had with trems is from friction at the nut (and string trees/retainers), not at the saddles. Maybe because the saddles are moving with the trem but the nut is fixed?

The vast majority of tuning issues I have with any guitar (trem or not) seem to be caused by unequal tension of the string on either side of the nut
 
Frankencat said:
The traditional hold down bar is going to be a point of friction so it would be nice if they made that piece as well. Otherwise some staggered locking tuners is what I would use, at least on a flat headstock with no angle. It's a cool idea and I have converted a few over the years as a custom solution at peoples request. Various degrees of success.
Click to expand...

I read some time ago (maybe it was from Gerry Haze's newsletter?) that staggered tuners really cannot provide enough angle to make up for the angle a retaining bar gives you. I think the conclusion was, if you're going without a locking nut the best way to go is to have an angled headstock.
 
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