Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

@Stone Ibanez has a new much more affordable AZ line called the AZ standard. I don't know about pricing in Canada, but I'd look into it. It still has stainless steel frets, but I don't know if the rest of the components are as nice.
 
State of Epicicity said:
@Stone Ibanez has a new much more affordable AZ line called the AZ standard. I don't know about pricing in Canada, but I'd look into it. It still has stainless steel frets, but I don't know if the rest of the components are as nice.
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No they are more budget but the basic guitar is great for the price. A carful selection of a used premium is by far the best option but that would require the choice of a few and the price to be acceptable in your area.
 
One other thing I didn’t mention is however good the Cort is the value will tank on day one so if you decide to move it along it’s a big hit. A used Premium is going to be worth what you paid. I think this is always a consideration with an instrument that is not your “ forever “ choice.
 
rocknrollshakeup said:
Question: if a Gibson Historic Nylon Nut has a low slot causing buzz, can it be built up like a bone nut can, or do I need a new nut?
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Yes it can but this often produces a nut that is prone to sticking. You can buy a Nylon 6 blank from crazy parts but because of the lacquer typically on the sides it is hard to replace without it looking like it. I would try it and see how it the tuning stability is before replacing it.
 
Eagle said:
It sounds like you just need a fret level. If your relief is correct and bottoms out around fret 7 and you have confirmed that. It will be a very small amount.
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Update: I corresponded with Suhr customer service. They had me ship the guitar to them for evaluation. They did a light level, crown, polish. and setup at no cost. The guitar now plays just as buzz free as my other Suhr guitars.
 
TravisG406 said:
Hey Andy, what are your thoughts on Telecaster top load vs string through?
Thanks!
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I would like to ask something related to this. Saw a squier tele which was string through and made of pine.

Don't wanna start a tonewood debate. Some people say that pine is too soft and may get dented if a person gigs often with it. Is this a rumor?
 
newpedals said:
I would like to ask something related to this. Saw a squier tele which was string through and made of pine.

Don't wanna start a tonewood debate. Some people say that pine is too soft and lessens the life of a gigging guitar. Is this a rumor?
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I gigged a pine tele for quite a few years. Didn't get dinged anymore than my other guitars.
 
Hey Andy, I have a Strat copy, that is ~6 or 7 years old. It's a cheaper thing, so the build quality was never *that* good, but okay and I really like the guitar.

This winter somehow the frets got spiky. Really spiky. Like I wouldn't dare doing multiple major slides up and down the neck in a row without having a cut open hand.

a) How can this be? This is a new "phenomenon". It is always in the same room since I have it and the German winter was pretty mild. As I said the frets were never really polished and rolled off, but they were never this bad.

b) I have no guitar builder. How can I solve this? A few posts above you talk about sanding sticks. Would this be enough for really spiky fret ends?
 
newpedals said:
I would like to ask something related to this. Saw a squier tele which was string through and made of pine.

Don't wanna start a tonewood debate. Some people say that pine is too soft and may get dented if a person gigs often with it. Is this a rumor?
Click to expand...
Pine is no more prone to damage than alder . It's essentially as durable as the finish.
 
BahamaDada said:
Hey Andy, I have a Strat copy, that is ~6 or 7 years old. It's a cheaper thing, so the build quality was never *that* good, but okay and I really like the guitar.

This winter somehow the frets got spiky. Really spiky. Like I wouldn't dare doing multiple major slides up and down the neck in a row without having a cut open hand.

a) How can this be? This is a new "phenomenon". It is always in the same room since I have it and the German winter was pretty mild. As I said the frets were never really polished and rolled off, but they were never this bad.

b) I have no guitar builder. How can I solve this? A few posts above you talk about sanding sticks. Would this be enough for really spiky fret ends?
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Sounds like fret sprout. Thats an easy fix.
This if not bad;

And this if worse;

Watch both either way.
 
Hi Eagle! I have an expensive MIJ Stratocaster that has quite high action so I’m looking at doing a basic setup. What would be your preferred string clearance and other setup specs? It looks like the magnets in the pickups are properly adjusted for even output but to keep the same output they should also be adjusted. Any other tips or overlooked aspects I should pay attention to?

Here are some specs and sorry if this has been asked before or is too specific!
1743435470470.png

1743435485087.png

1743435512686.png
 
Progressive_disclosure said:
Hi Eagle! I have an expensive MIJ Stratocaster that has quite high action so I’m looking at doing a basic setup. What would be your preferred string clearance and other setup specs? It looks like the magnets in the pickups are properly adjusted for even output but to keep the same output they should also be adjusted. Any other tips or overlooked aspects I should pay attention to?

Here are some specs and sorry if this has been asked before or is too specific!
View attachment 41267
View attachment 41268
View attachment 41269
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Start by getting the relief to about 7 1/1000” at fret seven on the G fretting at 1 and 15.
Then set the action at 60~70 1/1000” E to E at the twelfth. Check out this video;

This is basically the same as I do.
 
I'm contemplating installing the Engl Hardtailer in my Aristides H/07R, and I was hoping you could provide some guidance on inserting fasteners into the composite body material.

Does it behave similar to wood with respect to pre-drilling and screw insertion? Do I need to use some kind of insert and adhesive / epoxy?

Thanks
 
gearJunkie said:
I'm contemplating installing the Engl Hardtailer in my Aristides H/07R, and I was hoping you could provide some guidance on inserting fasteners into the composite body material.

Does it behave similar to wood with respect to pre-drilling and screw insertion? Do I need to use some kind of insert and adhesive / epoxy?

Thanks
Click to expand...
The tolerance is tight similar to a hardwood. You can use screws very carefully. You would have the backplate to deal with. It may not be a good idea to cut a large hole out of it .
 
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