Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

OrganicZed said:
@rocknrollshakeup I paid $550 for a re-fret on an acoustic guitar with neck binding about three years ago. If the guitar is worth the investment and the luthier is highly reputable I'd say $600 is in the reasonable range. I will say this; don't go with the cheapest offer you can find because you want this done correctly.
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Great data point thank you. It validates what I was thinking. Getting a terrible budget fret job sounds like a nightmare 😅.
And the luthier seems super legit.
 
Yes this , 👆🏻 It is quite expensive but if the guitar is worth it and they can show you excellent examples of similar work. That is more than I charge.
 
I just put the Tyler back together;
IMG_4442.jpeg

IMG_4443.jpeg

IMG_4444.jpeg

Can I have some set ups now please and not 335s and refrets of £6K plus instruments.🤣
 
This is not related to guitars but to pedals. I just had to ask.

Recently visited a few stores to buy an effect pedal and they had some old pedals. The color of the non-boss pedals' footswitches had turned darker.

Does it happen to every footswitch after a few years?

Is there any way to prevent it?

Thank you
 
newpedals said:
This is not related to guitars but to pedals. I just had to ask.

Recently visited a few stores to buy an effect pedal and they had some old pedals. The color of the non-boss pedals' footswitches had turned darker.

Does it happen to every footswitch after a few years?

Is there any way to prevent it?

Thank you
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All pigments change in daylight. The only way to stop it is keep it in the dark only getting it out to use. Once it’s faded or discoloured that’s it though.
 
Eagle said:
All pigments change in daylight. The only way to stop it is keep it in the dark only getting it out to use. Once it’s faded or discoloured that’s it though.
Click to expand...

So it is kind of inevitable.

I guess they are made from different metals, depending on manufacturers. Earlier I used to think that it was rust. Thank you for clarifying.
 
Hi Andy, great work on the Tyler. The frets look perfect. Gotta' say that I'm not a fan of the headstock, but I understand that they are great guitars.

I have a question about guitar parts. Back in the 70s I had a 67 Gibson ES-345 that had a trapeze tail piece. Being young and foolish I had the trapeze replaced with a stop-tail piece. I sold the guitar years ago, but recently found the original trapeze tail piece in a box of parts. It's gold plated, shows some wear in the plating, and has the driver's license of a previous owner engraved in the metal. In your opinion, does this have any value? If yes, is there a recommended location to sell it? I'm not interested in making a lot of money off it. Just wondering how to find it a new home after carrying it around for a number of decades. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Scott
Edit:
P.S. I just checked Reverb (which I should have done before I posted here) and found this:


I don't have the original screws, just the trapeze. Mine may be in slightly better condition overall, but I don't have the screws and mine does have the engraving of the driver's license. So, assuming that they aren't gouging on the price, I guess that this tells me a range. Does $400 seem high to you? Looking at pricing on these guitars, I now wish that I hadn't sold mine. I also had an original 1x12 Mesa Boogie combo that I bought around the same time. I wish I still had that amp too.

Edit #2: I took a closer look at the listing it it's 2 years old. So it seems that $400 is too high. Unless of course your find the right buyer. I'd sell mine for less. Perhaps even trade a pedal for it.
 
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Photograph it in detail and put it on reverb. It’s not particularly valuable but see if you can find any others for sale that are the same.
I would suggest £200/250 from your description.
 
Single coils, flat or staggered pole pieces? Is there a clear winner, or is it depending on guitar and music style?

(picture because I just saw JoBo's video).

1741821005705.png
 
Henry said:
Single coils, flat or staggered pole pieces? Is there a clear winner, or is it depending on guitar and music style?

(picture because I just saw JoBo's video).

View attachment 40220
Click to expand...
IMO, staggered works fine on a 7-1/4” radius neck with the caveat that with most staggered pickups, the pole for the G string is usually set to accommodate a wound G string.

This may result in a louder G string and the potential for excess magnetic string pull and consequent “Stratitus” unless you set the pickups lower.

Personally, I prefer flat poles as they work better for flatter radius necks and in my experience let you run the pickups higher without the risk of Stratitus on the middle strings.

Edit: Just realized I posted this in @Eagle’s AMA thread. Didn’t mean to hijack your thread.
 
norminal said:
IMO, staggered works fine on a 7-1/4” radius neck with the caveat that with most staggered pickups, the pole for the G string is usually set to accommodate a wound G string.

This may result in a louder G string and the potential for excess magnetic string pull and consequent “Stratitus” unless you set the pickups lower.

Personally, I prefer flat poles as they work better for flatter radius necks and in my experience let you run the pickups higher without the risk of Stratitus on the middle strings.

Edit: Just realized I posted this in @Eagle’s AMA thread. Didn’t mean to hijack your thread.
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No worries at all, I appreciate every input!

I checked two of my Suhr Classic S and both have a "subtle" stagger. I love those single coils!
Even my Gen4 Noiseless Fender pups have a "subtle" stagger. Not so hot about those tones :-(
 
la szum said:
How and why did Staggered Poles become a thing with Strat Pickups, and really no
other variety of PU? :idk
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In order to have the desired effect the pole pieces must be the magnet or adjusting them doesn’t have the effects you think it is going too.
Early versions of the prototype pickups for strats were flat but this made the thin wound strings too quiet so we ended up with the 54 stagger which was altered to get the one we have now as standard vintage. But this is really only suitable for 7.25” radius and a wound G . Flat is better for most guitars but other companies have produced effective alternatives still with some staggering.
The reason it is ineffective in a standard humbucker is the magnet is fixed under the coil and the proximity of the pole screw to the magnet governs how strong the field is at the string. Raise it and you actually move a greater proportion of the screw away from the field and the magnetic force is weaker above the pole. Humbuckers should be adjusted only with the pickup hight.
 
Gibson P90s. To hum or not to hum? Seems like the new Gibson Warren Haynes Les Paul model has noiseless P90s. I wonder about the trade-off here, is the hum on a regular P90 about the same as on a regular single coil?

1741902063698.png
 
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