Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

I own a Byrdland who may ..or may not need some work in a couple of years in this department.
With high risk of tonal changes I’d rather shave more off the bridge/sadles…if the risk is minimal, I’d rather leave the bridge as is, and bite the bullit earlier ;)
Find a specialist and it should be fine but in the meantime you can get another bridge to modify keeping the original stock.
 
Find a specialist and it should be fine but in the meantime you can get another bridge to modify keeping the original stock.
I got a super capable one nearby…these guys handle vintage instruments on a daily basis…and at the moment it needs nothing, perfect as is…but zero slack left.
Maybe I’m lucky, and it stays where it is.
 
Refret three of the week;
IMG_4411.jpeg

IMG_4412.jpeg

Mid 90s Japan fender .
Next up is yes a refret!🤣
A Tyler though , or should that be Tyler,Tyler,Tyler,Tyler,Tyler (12 times)
 
Hi Andy, recently bought a silver sky core with a small dent in the neck. What do you suggest would be the best method to repair this, or just leave it?
You could use steam ( wet cloth and soldering iron) risky if you have never done it before. That would be What I would do. Then if there was still a dent I would fill it with super glue and level it. Once again not beginner friendly.
 
You could use steam ( wet cloth and soldering iron) risky if you have never done it before. That would be What I would do. Then if there was still a dent I would fill it with super glue and level it. Once again not beginner friendly.
I will probably take it in or maybe just leave it. Won't try myself. Thank you
 
You could use steam ( wet cloth and soldering iron) risky if you have never done it before. That would be What I would do. Then if there was still a dent I would fill it with super glue and level it. Once again not beginner friendly.
just curious on the steaming method - would that still work on a finished neck like the Silver Sky?
 
I own a Byrdland who may ..or may not need some work in a couple of years in this department.
With high risk of tonal changes I’d rather shave more off the bridge/sadles…if the risk is minimal, I’d rather leave the bridge as is, and bite the bullit earlier ;)
I had a local luthier put a Faber on my Byrdland last year along with a fret crown. My Byrdland certainly has issues (G string always seems dampened; very little sustain). The Faber certainly made some micro differences in sustain as did the crowning bring back subtle clarity when playing pianissimo on frets 10-22
 
The frets just cut with end cutters giving you that PRS privat stock look .🤣
On a serious note I think PRS USA should do better at crowning the flat tops they leave and properly finishing the ends. Who do the think they are !!! Gibson?🤣
 
The next steps on the Tyler are flush file the ends and cut a steep bevel to preserve playing width then level.
Then crown and do the fret end dress.
It would look like this;
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This shot is after files only no polish or papers have been used yet.
After this I would go along fret by fret detail work and polishing.
IMG_4437.jpeg

When you have finished you do anything you need to the fingerboard and oil it . If it is a gloss finish you also re polish the edges of the fingerboard so no evidence of any work is left. In fact everything a good Tech does should look like it left the factory that way however closely you examine it.
 
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Hi Andy,
I was quoted $600 for a refret recently. Assuming this would be an excellent job by a custom guitar luthier, is that a reasonable price, or way too expensive?
 
@rocknrollshakeup I paid $550 for a re-fret on an acoustic guitar with neck binding about three years ago. If the guitar is worth the investment and the luthier is highly reputable I'd say $600 is in the reasonable range. I will say this; don't go with the cheapest offer you can find because you want this done correctly.
 
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