Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

With locking tuners and a well cut nut you should be able to stay in tune pretty well.
Thanks, But Im thinking up here in Quebec its almost $3,000 Tax included for a Made in Mexico so not too sure about dishing out that kind of coin
for a MiM, certainly not the biggest fan of MiM QC
 
Thanks, But Im thinking up here in Quebec its almost $3,000 Tax included for a Made in Mexico so not too sure about dishing out that kind of coin
for a MiM, certainly not the biggest fan of MiM QC
I don’t know your exchange rates so I don’t know if that’s bad. That guitar is £900 in the UK so not expensive.
 
@Eagle
Andy, a quick question I always wondered about. I have 2 guitars (HSS and SSS Strats) that are wired up with the magnetic pickups and passive (no preamp) Graph Tech Ghost saddles going to a 3 way mini toggle (mag/both/piezo) to a TRS jack. A TRS cable to a splitter box that sends 2 TS cables into different inputs of my FM9. I have no control of the piezo's on the guitar except on/off, and control all the from the fractal.

The question( finally ;) ), is there a tone compromise doing it this way? Shared common ground or whatever else. It's a really versitile setup for gigs. But I've always worried that it was leaving something (tone) on the table.
 
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I don’t know your exchange rates so I don’t know if that’s bad. That guitar is £900 in the UK so not expensive.
£900Lbs is 1,525,00 CDN

Selling up here in Quebec for $2,599.00 + Taxes = $2,988.00 CDN

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Think im gonna pass on that
 
Curious why you just recommended the Wilkinson, and when I inquired you recommended the Gotoh.

$100 price difference.

Thoughts?? :idk
 
Curious why you just recommended the Wilkinson, and when I inquired you recommended the Gotoh.

$100 price difference.

Thoughts?? :idk
You said “best vintage modern “. The Wilkinson is good but the Gotoh is better. Both do the 10.8mm saddle. I recommend the Wilkinson as a cost option and for a particular look. This design pretty much always sounds good so best engineered is not always necessary.
 
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@Eagle
Andy, a quick question I always wondered about. I have 2 guitars (HSS and SSS Strats) that are wired up with the magnetic pickups and passive (no preamp) Graph Tech Ghost saddles going to a 3 way mini toggle (mag/both/piezo) to a TRS jack. A TRS cable to a splitter box that sends 2 TS cables into different inputs of my FM9. I have no control of the piezo's on the guitar except on/off, and control all the from the fractal.

The question( finally ;) ), is there a tone compromise doing it this way? Shared common ground or whatever else. It's a really versitile setup for gigs. But I've always worried that it was leaving something (tone) on the table.
The piezo needs a pre amp really so that’s your compromise.
 
The piezo needs a pre amp really so that’s your compromise.
Thank you for that. The piezo's are going in to input 2 left of a Fractal FM 9. At stock input settings I'm getting a very solid input signal. Do you think an external pre-amp would be better than the tools inside the Fractal? If so do you have a recommendation?
 
@Eagle , what's you opinion on Ibanez Edge Trems? Just curious. You talked a bit in the other thread about the tuning stability of a well setup-ed (original) Floyd Rose. One of my guitars originally had a Edge 3 (It was bought a year before they implemented that Edge Zero style trem) and some 10 years ago I upgraded that to an Edge Pro. But that thing can't hold tuning, no matter how I set it up.
 
Thank you for that. The piezo's are going in to input 2 left of a Fractal FM 9. At stock input settings I'm getting a very solid input signal. Do you think an external pre-amp would be better than the tools inside the Fractal? If so do you have a recommendation?
You can sometimes get all you need without a preamp but that can murder the signal to noise ratio ( not always) . If you get a decent signal strength then it can work. If you want to try external preamps I would always start with the one by the manufacturer of the piezo.
 
@Eagle , what's you opinion on Ibanez Edge Trems? Just curious. You talked a bit in the other thread about the tuning stability of a well setup-ed (original) Floyd Rose. One of my guitars originally had a Edge 3 (It was bought a year before they implemented that Edge Zero style trem) and some 10 years ago I upgraded that to an Edge Pro. But that thing can't hold tuning, no matter how I set it up.
Steve Vai had Edge pro on a few guitars with no issues and I never had one that I couldn’t get to work. It clearly was impeded in some way. The Ibanez Edge , Low Pro Edge and Edge Pro are all excellent and built in Japan by Gotoh. They all use the 1996 locking nuts. The other Ibanez trems are pretty good for licensed units but not in the same league. I’m happy to see that Ibanez now fit only the Gotoh made units on the Japanese made guitars. The long and short of it is if you can get a Gotoh made Ibanez trem to go out of tune at all it is a set up issue.
 
I forgot to mention that the knife edges sometimes need attention and work best ( as in perfect) with a lube. Joe Satriani uses chapstick because it seems to last in place longer.
 
Steve Vai had Edge pro on a few guitars with no issues and I never had one that I couldn’t get to work. It clearly was impeded in some way. The Ibanez Edge , Low Pro Edge and Edge Pro are all excellent and built in Japan by Gotoh. They all use the 1996 locking nuts. The other Ibanez trems are pretty good for licensed units but not in the same league. I’m happy to see that Ibanez now fit only the Gotoh made units on the Japanese made guitars. The long and short of it is if you can get a Gotoh made Ibanez trem to go out of tune at all it is a set up issue.
Thx! The knife edges on the Edge Pro surely show some wear which (as far as I know) may be the problem. Is there any solution to this? Work them with a fine metal rasp or something? I'd post a pic, but the guitar is freshly restringed and setup-ed.
 
Thx! The knife edges on the Edge Pro surely show some wear which (as far as I know) may be the problem. Is there any solution to this? Work them with a fine metal rasp or something? I'd post a pic, but the guitar is freshly restringed and setup-ed.
Describe exactly what happens. It needs to be pretty damaged to not return and the knife inserts and posts are hardened.
This is very helpful if you haven't seen it.
tuning_stability.htm
 
I forgot to mention that the knife edges sometimes need attention and work best ( as in perfect) with a lube. Joe Satriani uses chapstick because it seems to last in place longer.
Speaking of knife edges, what's the correct way to sharpen them? Should you even try to do that?

I tried sharpening the knife edges on a 1996 G&L Legacy bridge, but frankly the results worked out so poorly (even though visually it looks fine) that I ended up just replacing the bridge completely. Which was a pain in the ass because I had to replace its posts as well because the new ones were slightly different despite asking G&L to send me a bridge matching the old one...
 
Speaking of knife edges, what's the correct way to sharpen them? Should you even try to do that?

I tried sharpening the knife edges on a 1996 G&L Legacy bridge, but frankly the results worked out so poorly (even though visually it looks fine) that I ended up just replacing the bridge completely. Which was a pain in the ass because I had to replace its posts as well because the new ones were slightly different despite asking G&L to send me a bridge matching the old one...
Yes its fine but just get rid or the burrs. Don't try to actually sharpen anything .
 
Yes its fine but just get rid or the burrs. Don't try to actually sharpen anything .
That's what I tried but I think the issue was that whatever finish is on the G&L had worn through and basically I just smoothed the edges of that.
 
That's what I tried but I think the issue was that whatever finish is on the G&L had worn through and basically I just smoothed the edges of that.
That is usually the case and its often the problem. Smooth it all out and it usually works.
 
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