Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

The reason I think Callaham use Gotoh to make some parts is because the way the back of the baseplate is bent and machined is unique to gotoh and identical on the Callaham. The screws are also identical and slightly different to Fender. This is not a criticism because Gotoh is IMO the top of tree for hardware manufacturers.
 
Hey Andy,

I have a question, that is... too big to google tbh. As in: I googled it but got 11254 different, uneducated answers. I now read the most of this thread and I guess you are educated on this:

What's the deal with string spacing on pickups? Say I put a non-F Seymour Duncan SH4 in a guitar with a Floyd Rose. Did you ever experience real downsides to this other than "it does not look so good"?

I have a SH4 lying around and would like to do exactly that, but I've read so many opinions on that (see first sentence), I am unsure. And soldering new pickups+setting up a Freudlos are too much of a hassle to just "try it out".
 
BahamaDada said:
Hey Andy,

I have a question, that is... too big to google tbh. As in: I googled it but got 11254 different, uneducated answers. I now read the most of this thread and I guess you are educated on this:

What's the deal with string spacing on pickups? Say I put a non-F Seymour Duncan SH4 in a guitar with a Floyd Rose. Did you ever experience real downsides to this other than "it does not look so good"?

I have a SH4 lying around and would like to do exactly that, but I've read so many opinions on that (see first sentence), I am unsure. And soldering new pickups+setting up a Freudlos are too much of a hassle to just "try it out".
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You only need a non standard wider pickup for a vintage spaced fender bridge with a wide 11.3mm saddle width. The modern strat and Floyd’s are 10.8mm and work perfectly fine with standard Gibson spacing. The Es just sit on the outside of the poles.
IMG_3126.jpeg

Here is a short of Ed’s 5150 with a floyd (10.8mm spacing) and a standard SH4 JBJ . No issues.
You do need to make sure it is exactly in the middle though if it’s a bit to one side it will have a problem.
 
Cool fact about the 5150. The trem in particular is an Ibanez Edge Pro, which says somewhere it has a 10.8mm string spacing. So basically you say it doesn't matter as long as the outer poles "touch" (visually) the e and E somewhere?

Another q outside of guitars: I suppose you are American? Is it difficult switching between metric and imperial all the time for different parts and pieces?
 
BahamaDada said:
Cool fact about the 5150. The trem in particular is an Ibanez Edge Pro, which says somewhere it has a 10.8mm string spacing. So basically you say it doesn't matter as long as the outer poles "touch" (visually) the e and E somewhere?

Another q outside of guitars: I suppose you are American? Is it difficult switching between metric and imperial all the time for different parts and pieces?
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No I am British and I have got used to the imperial metric issue. I pretty much always know who is what. The issues arise mostly with Fender kit parts. USA neck heels are 2 3/16” (55.5mm) and Japanese ones are 56mm not add sanding tolerances and other things. Scratch plates and necks can be a poor fit if you are at opposite ends of tolerances. Why anyone should still be using imperial is beyond ridiculous. USA has metric money why not just move over. We have a stupid mixture here as well. We should have gone 100% over in 1971 when we did money and some measures. But we kept miles??? Engineering and building is now thankfully metric.
 
Eagle said:
No I am British and I have got used to the imperial metric issue. I pretty much always know who is what. The issues arise mostly with Fender kit parts. USA neck heels are 2 3/16” (55.5mm) and Japanese ones are 56mm not add sanding tolerances and other things. Scratch plates and necks can be a poor fit if you are at opposite ends of tolerances. Why anyone should still be using imperial is beyond ridiculous. USA has metric money why not just move over. We have a stupid mixture here as well. We should have gone 100% over in 1971 when we did money and some measures. But we kept miles??? Engineering and building is now thankfully metric.
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Oh that caught me so off guard when I visited London and the UK some years ago. "How much is that? Miles? Aren't Miles an American thing?". That and the roundabouts, when you are used to right-lane-driving. I retroactively apologize to the people of the UK for renting a car there.

episode 4 cars GIF
 
BahamaDada said:
Oh that caught me so off guard when I visited London and the UK some years ago. "How much is that? Miles? Aren't Miles an American thing?". That and the roundabouts, when you are used to right-lane-driving. I retroactively apologize to the people of the UK for renting a car there.

episode 4 cars GIF
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No miles is from here too. Your pints and fluid ounces are different to our old imperial ones too. We should all go metric it is far better.
 
Eagle said:
No miles is from here too. Your pints and fluid ounces are different to our old imperial ones too. We should all go metric it is far better.
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Oh, I'm in central Europe. We don't even know how to convert miles, inches and ounces.
 
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Ok that’s the details.
Well real ?
What is the value ?
There is enough information here to make a decision, assume no provenance documentation or provided history.
This is not an easy one.
 
OK I'll play though this is mostly guesswork.

The top carve doesn't look right up around the switch or the lower horn, however, that could be the pics.

The control cavity looks right but some of the soldering looks a bit iffy so the pickups have been out or changed?

I think the pickup rings are right. They have the right code and the colour from the top has bled into them.
 
Eagle said:
Any alarm bells, or is all good and expected?
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Andy, I have -1 idea if that is real/genuine or not, but the OCD in me wants to clean that guitar's oxidated metal parts SO MUCH...

I'd guess it's a replica. Bc... I don't know. Would be funny.

And I now realize some of my guitars, that look tattered and torn from 1000s of hours of playing, are still in better shape :-D
 
Ok I will say.
The hardware ,the electrics ,the pickups, even the screws and plastic are all original but the guitar is a replica.
Still $50k though. There are quite a few out there like this that are probably accepted as real because it's down to the provenance when you get something like this. There are no discernible differences between this and original other than what looks like a refret and a bone nut but they are stock on this. These and 57 conversions are the most difficult to identify. In say another 30 years who is going to be able to tell. It does explain why untouched solder and paper trails are starting to matter a lot more.
 
Dang it I was too late to get my guess in before the reveal. I was going to guess replica because I didn’t believe the scratch pattern on the headstock, that looked like replica work to me.

It was just a guess though.

D
 
Any thoughts on Richlite. I was looking at a Godin nylon string that plays nicely and was somewhat surprised that they make a similar model that is slightly less money and has a rosewood board. I’d probably attribute the difference in price to the electronics but still.
 
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