The Fuzz Face Explorer Board Kit - a learning rig for this popular fuzz circuit and a great way to demo new and unexplored transistors for Fuzz

[huntingtonaudio]

@huntingtonaudio, if you happen to have any free time, I'd love to hear more about your Breadboard Butler. Have you discontinued this product altogether, or are you working on a new version? It's immensely useful, but it's a bit of a black box to me at the moment. This may eventually be a concern if I breadboard with this inline, and then try to downsize to equivalent effects in dedicated enclosures. I got the Fuzz Face Explorer Board working with and without the Breadboard Butler, but there are a lot of components on the latter whose purpose (and effect?) I don't really understand. A circuit diagram or general overview would be great. :)

Discontinue it? Heck no! I have still to perfect it. :)

I've been posting about it on instagram. (https://www.instagram.com/huntingtonaudio/)

i'm new to social media and will admit to being the last person to expect anyone to tune in to everything everywhere. So no worries if you missed it. But I am very much pursuing a final version of this product. I was hoping to have them ready to sell by early August, but it looks like maybe early September is more realistic.

In the meantime, I'm offering free functional prototypes of the latest beta version of the breadboard butler to folks who order $40 or more of other stuff - until I run out of 'em. I've got a small handful left.

And when these finally leave the prototype phase and become final products I will certainly include a manual of sorts. In the mean time, I'd be happy to do another 5-10 minute video walkthrough of the prototype version for you. You have my email, I believe, so ping me.

It's really such a thrill to see people using these tools. I know some have purchased them, but everytime I see them actually being used, it's a nice little buzz. Thank you, @mbenigni

 

[huntingtonaudio]

Discontinue it? Heck no! I have still to perfect it. :)

I've been posting about it on instagram. (https://www.instagram.com/huntingtonaudio/)

i'm new to social media and will admit to being the last person to expect anyone to tune in to everything everywhere. So no worries if you missed it. But I am very much pursuing a final version of this product. I was hoping to have them ready to sell by early August, but it looks like maybe early September is more realistic.

In the meantime, I'm offering free functional prototypes of the latest beta version of the breadboard butler to folks who order $40 or more of other stuff - until I run out of 'em. I've got a small handful left.

And when these finally leave the prototype phase and become final products I will certainly include a manual of sorts. In the mean time, I'd be happy to do another 5-10 minute video walkthrough of the prototype version for you. You have my email, I believe, so ping me.

It's really such a thrill to see people using these tools. I know some have purchased them, but everytime I see them actually being used, it's a nice little buzz. Thank you, @mbenigni

 

[huntingtonaudio]

Here are some images which might help in the mean time. I forget exactly which prototype version I sent you. But one of these sketch up diagrams should help.

Older prototype version:

Older Prototype Version sketchup:

Newer Prototype Version sketch up:

 

[mbenigni]

Thanks so much, Seth! I can definitely wait for whatever documentation you provide when you get out of beta. The deeper that documentation goes, the better, but I think I'd drive you crazy on a call trying to understand the purpose every component on the board.

My main concern is being able to use the Breadboard Butler without feeling like I'm "cheating" by introducing too many variables beyond what's on my actual breadboard. I assume most of what I'm looking at is filtering for I/O, switching, etc., but it's intimidating that the "accessory" Breadboard Butler is so much more complex than my own effects circuitry.

(To anyone else reading with even a passing interest in electronics - take advantage of that free with > $40 offer! The Breadboard Butler takes care of the most tedious parts of designing guitar effects circuits: power/grounding, I/O, switching, etc.)

 

[huntingtonaudio]

The butler actually does not really 'touch' your signal at all. Instead it brings to your breadboard (hence the butler part) some of the basics you'd need for almost any circuit.... So there's no cheating here at all. think of it like a really nicely set up wood shop. It makes doing the work easier because you're organized and have an ergonomic space to work in, but it doesn't do the work for you at all.

Input and output routing.
Switch between using input A or input B using the toggle switch. Whatever signal is coming through the selected input (a or B) will be sent to the "SND" (send) headers (and also accessible at the "IN" metal BNC jack for a scope hookup of the input signal). You'll take the singal from one of the SND sockets and plug that into where you want to input signal on your breadboard circuit.

Then design your circuit and send the signal output of your circuit to the RTN (return) socket of the butler.... this will route your circuits output to the output 1/4" jack on the butler (presumably then going to your amp).

The True bypass button can be used to quickly toggle what singal is going to your 1/4 output jack... is the RTN signal from your circuit design or is it the unadulterated input signal from your selected (a/b) input jack (bypassed).

There is no filtering of your signal by the breadboard butler... only convenience routing.

Next is power...
Most of the SMD resistors, capacitors, and ICs on there are for regulating the original 9V power to allow you to play with different voltages within your circuit. you have a choice of -9V, 0V (GND), +3.3V, +5V, +9V, and +18V. You can tap any of those sockets for the given voltage and input it to your circuit. There are also two patchable 'rail' sockets (one on each side of the breadboard. Here, if you plug the butler into your breadboard rails as in my photo, you can choose what voltages you want to send down the corresponding rails.

The big relays on the board are to help with the true bypass function, allowing you to really cut out your circuit design while in bypass without having some joke of a switch on there (some 4PDT or bigger).

I've got something to do in a few minutes, so I've sped through this write up. But it was important to me that I explain that there is absolutely not signal processing going on with the butler. It's just routing inputs / outpus and power in a convenient way for breadboarding. The only thing close to novel about it is the oscilloscope hookups and the external footswitch control of the signal bypass (not on your version unfortunately).

If you have any more questions, don't hesitate.

 

[mbenigni]

The butler actually does not really 'touch' your signal at all. Instead it brings to your breadboard (hence the butler part) some of the basics you'd need for almost any circuit.... So there's no cheating here at all. think of it like a really nicely set up wood shop. It makes doing the work easier because you're organized and have an ergonomic space to work in, but it doesn't do the work for you at all.

Input and output routing.
Switch between using input A or input B using the toggle switch. Whatever signal is coming through the selected input (a or B) will be sent to the "SND" (send) headers (and also accessible at the "IN" metal BNC jack for a scope hookup of the input signal). You'll take the singal from one of the SND sockets and plug that into where you want to input signal on your breadboard circuit.

Then design your circuit and send the signal output of your circuit to the RTN (return) socket of the butler.... this will route your circuits output to the output 1/4" jack on the butler (presumably then going to your amp).

The True bypass button can be used to quickly toggle what singal is going to your 1/4 output jack... is the RTN signal from your circuit design or is it the unadulterated input signal from your selected (a/b) input jack (bypassed).

There is no filtering of your signal by the breadboard butler... only convenience routing.

Next is power...
Most of the SMD resistors, capacitors, and ICs on there are for regulating the original 9V power to allow you to play with different voltages within your circuit. you have a choice of -9V, 0V (GND), +3.3V, +5V, +9V, and +18V. You can tap any of those sockets for the given voltage and input it to your circuit. There are also two patchable 'rail' sockets (one on each side of the breadboard. Here, if you plug the butler into your breadboard rails as in my photo, you can choose what voltages you want to send down the corresponding rails.

The big relays on the board are to help with the true bypass function, allowing you to really cut out your circuit design while in bypass without having some joke of a switch on there (some 4PDT or bigger).

I've got something to do in a few minutes, so I've sped through this write up. But it was important to me that I explain that there is absolutely not signal processing going on with the butler. It's just routing inputs / outpus and power in a convenient way for breadboarding. The only thing close to novel about it is the oscilloscope hookups and the external footswitch control of the signal bypass (not on your version unfortunately).

If you have any more questions, don't hesitate.

As always, immensely helpful. Thanks again, Seth!

 

[huntingtonaudio]

As always, immensely helpful. Thanks again, Seth!

my pleasure

 

[EOengineer]

For anyone looking to understand the FuzzFace circuit better, the RG Keen “Technology of the Fuzz Face” write up is the definitive guide.

Technology of the Fuzz Face - Frame Definition

Also note the little trick shown using a reverse biased germanium diode on Q1 to help cap leakage and add stability to Q1 when using germanium transistors.

IMO the absolute HFE sweet spot for a germ FF IS Q1 at 80-90, Q2 100-120 with a 4.5v bias.

My personal recommendation (useless) is to hardwire a 1k resister in for the fuzz pot and swap in a 250k pot at the input of the pedal - this allows you to clean up the fuzz ala guitar volume roll off but preset from the pedal. The fuzz knob on a stock FF is basically useless anyway. This is like the input control on a fulltone 69 - I think Joe Gagen is credited with the concept though.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

For anyone looking to understand the FuzzFace circuit better, the RG Keen “Technology of the Fuzz Face” write up is the definitive guide.

Technology of the Fuzz Face - Frame Definition

Also note the little trick shown using a reverse biased germanium diode on Q1 to help cap leakage and add stability to Q1 when using germanium transistors.

IMO the absolute HFE sweet spot for a germ FF IS Q1 at 80-90, Q2 100-120 with a 4.5v bias.

My personal recommendation (useless) is to hardwire a 1k resister in for the fuzz pot and swap in a 250k pot at the input of the pedal - this allows you to clean up the fuzz ala guitar volume roll off but preset from the pedal. The fuzz knob on a stock FF is basically useless anyway. This is like the input control on a fulltone 69 - I think Joe Gagen is credited with the concept though.

I like pretty low hfe germanium myself. Something in the 55-70 range for Q1 and Q2. I also quite like them to be matched, you get a really smooth fuzz with great clean up that way. Higher HFE doesn't clean up as well in my experience.

For silicon I like about 300 hfe Q1 and about 400 hfe in Q2. I've built a few silicon with matched pairs too about 300 hfe which sounded great.

The pot on the input works well though, I usually have that on my fuzz face based pedals too.

 

[EOengineer]

I like pretty low hfe germanium myself. Something in the 55-70 range for Q1 and Q2. I also quite like them to be matched, you get a really smooth fuzz with great clean up that way. Higher HFE doesn't clean up as well in my experience.

For silicon I like about 300 hfe Q1 and about 400 hfe in Q2. I've built a few silicon with matched pairs too about 300 hfe which sounded great.

I do like the lower HFE in germanium as well. I’ve done less experimentation with silicon as I so strongly prefer germanium.

That said, my wife surprised me with the JHF-1 (si Hendrix fuzz) last year for Christmas and honestly it’s the best silicon fuzz I’ve played in the traditional form factor.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

The JHF1 is spectacular, easily the best cleanup I've tried in a silicon fuzz face. I love the look of the large fuzz face Enclosures but they're just too big for me to put on a board.

The JHF1 also uses a matched pair of silicon bc108 measuring about 260 hfe in the unit that was taken apart of freestompboxes.

I went down the rabbit hole on fuzz faces and haven't quite gotten out yet.

 

[EOengineer]

The JHF1 is spectacular, easily the best cleanup I've tried in a silicon fuzz face. I love the look of the large fuzz face Enclosures but they're just too big for me to put on a board.

I hear you. Mine lives on top of my amp most of the time as I tend to just leave the pedal on and work volume, but that might just be what I tell myself to work within it’s limitations. It’s amazing these ever caught on given how temperamental the circuits are, and how impractical every aspect of the pedal is, from the size to the orientation of the reversed input/output jacks.

I went down the rabbit hole on fuzz faces and haven't quite gotten out yet.

My ride started with an Electronics 1 final paper my freshman year of college was back in the early 2000s and I’m still stuck in it. Good luck. Enjoy the ride.

This is reminding me I have a couple bags of NOS NPN GE (yeah you read that right) transistors sitting around here somewhere. I bought a box of them someone found in an old warehouse a decade or more ago and they sound great.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

View attachment 30298
I hear you. Mine lives on top of my amp most of the time as I tend to just leave the pedal on and work volume, but that might just be what I tell myself to work within it’s limitations. It’s amazing these ever caught on given how temperamental the circuits are, and how impractical every aspect of the pedal is, from the size to the orientation of the reversed input/output jacks.


My ride started with an Electronics 1 final paper my freshman year of college was back in the early 2000s and I’m still stuck in it. Good luck. Enjoy the ride.

This is reminding me I have a couple bags of NOS NPN GE (yeah you read that right) transistors sitting around here somewhere. I bought a box of them someone found in an old warehouse a decade or more ago and they sound great.

Nice. I've had to ban myself from buying anymore transistors regardless of how good a deal they are. I have way more than I'll ever use.

I really wish fuzzcases in the UK would make a miniature fuzz face case like the fuzz face minis. I love the look but don't want to deal with the size. I haven't been able to find a broken fuzz face mini for a decent price yet either.