SS Power Amp Build: Icepower 700AS2

well.. greenies arent known for being either power resilient OR efficient- what about changing to something like a pair of g12h75s if you want to stick with celestions? or redbacks? i mean.. thats $350 worth of upgrade versus $700...

the other thing, though, is that greenies under a lotta power arent gonna help you with headroom.. theyre just gonna melt. sonically and otherwise!
idk man, i really like these greenbacks. I might just get a different cab down the road and keep this as is. I haven't played the cab out with the band yet but it has been holding up well to my domestic abuse at least!
 
@Chocol8 I owe you a beer (or ginger beer if you prefer)! :beer

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Not only do I get at least 6db more volume out of the BAM (haven't cranked it to uncomfortable volumes yet) at 4ohms, but the neutered low end has come back (mostly). It still drops off past 50-60hz but nowhere as noticeable when playing or after having been recorded.
 
You owe me nothing! Just rock that thing.

And, if you need more, I would double the suggestion for more efficient (and higher power rated) speakers as the next step. Those greenbacks can handle more than 50 watts for a while, but not forever, and a more efficient speaker will get you another 2-4 db.
 
Look what I bought from @Boudoir Guitar

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Now thinking about what to mount it in. Was thinking some old appliance. An old non-functioning Nintendo would be hilarious but probably not the right dimensions and definitely the wrong materials. Need to do more research.
 
You are definitely going to want different/more speakers to absorb that level of power.
Sure, right after I melt these Greenbacks.

Kidding, of course. I wouldn't open it up all the way for this cab. I want to get another 2x12 for stereo or maybe a 4x12 somewhere down the road. Of course I could try the amp with the PA rig whenever I complete that
:bag

This is all a fun project that I'm not looking to accomplish in a hurry.
 
So I did some reading about mounting these boards into things and it looks like encasing them in something metal is good for grounding and noise, so I've ordered an aluminum case from DigiKey, i just got the shipping notification.

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It isn't pretty - No pre drilled holes. It seems like it may be awkward to build it out with the I/O and controls on the length side panels.

I have a few things in my Amazon cart I know I'll get -- some standoffs, a drill and tap bit set, some loctite, but I'm trying to wrap my head around amperage of parts like switches and IEC sockets. I have a socket rated for 15A in my possession, and 30A switches in my Amazon cart. ICEpower website says the Peak output current is 30A. The internet seems to think I may start a fire or melt something but a few of my amps have 15A sockets so I'm puzzled.

Need to find some good resources on this stuff
 
Also, am I correct in thinking I need plastic contacts for the speaker connections? I have these PCB 1/4"in jack sockets in my Amazon cart too but I've never seen these not mounted on a PCB before, not sure how that will hold up..

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So I did some reading about mounting these boards into things and it looks like encasing them in something metal is good for grounding and noise, so I've ordered an aluminum case from DigiKey, i just got the shipping notification.

View attachment 58117

It isn't pretty - No pre drilled holes. It seems like it may be awkward to build it out with the I/O and controls on the length side panels.

I have a few things in my Amazon cart I know I'll get -- some standoffs, a drill and tap bit set, some loctite, but I'm trying to wrap my head around amperage of parts like switches and IEC sockets. I have a socket rated for 15A in my possession, and 30A switches in my Amazon cart. ICEpower website says the Peak output current is 30A. The internet seems to think I may start a fire or melt something but a few of my amps have 15A sockets so I'm puzzled.

Need to find some good resources on this stuff
I've got a roll of copper copper tape w/ conductive adhesive -- my plan was to use that on the inside of a diy wooden box. Might be able to considering doing something like that w/ the more creative box ideas you had?

The peak output current of 30A is not going to show up at the IEC socket -- the thing can't sit there and kick out 30amps to the point that it needs to be drawing 30 amps 1-for-1 from the wall. If it were doing that, you'd need a special circuit on your house circuit panel for this thing, since most circuit breakers are 20amp circuits. 15 amps should be more than fine for the IEC socket, etc.
 
Also, am I correct in thinking I need plastic contacts for the speaker connections? I have these PCB 1/4"in jack sockets in my Amazon cart too but I've never seen these not mounted on a PCB before, but sure how that will hold up..

View attachment 58118

You want the Neutrik jacks that look similar but are not PCB mount. Same style as Marshall amps. Get the TRS one even if not using them as stereo because the extra connector makes them grip better.
 
Ah cool. That wasn't the one I was seeing at all lol.. and of course, solder lugs, not PCB legs :facepalm I can't believe I didn't notice that.

The peak output current of 30A is not going to show up at the IEC socket -- the thing can't sit there and kick out 30amps to the point that it needs to be drawing 30 amps 1-for-1 from the wall. If it were doing that, you'd need a special circuit on your house circuit panel for this thing, since most circuit breakers are 20amp circuits. 15 amps should be more than fine for the IEC socket, etc.
Thank you. This makes a lot of sense and really put it into perspective for me.

I've got a roll of copper copper tape w/ conductive adhesive -- my plan was to use that on the inside of a diy wooden box. Might be able to considering doing something like that w/ the more creative box ideas you had?
I thought about it and figured holding out for something cool to put it in would make the thing too precious for a virgin build. Then I thought about how cool it would look if I made it a little headshell!
 
Some super rough, not to scale mockups so far.

Front:
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The two cylinders on the left are supposed to be knobs for the two channels of the amp.
Not sure what knobs I'll use yet.

Back:
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Rear I/O from Left to Right: IEC connection, Speaker Outs L, R, Inputs L, R.
 
Parts started coming in. The standoffs and tap set came a few days ago but the case arrived this morning.

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I attached some standoffs to check height clearance and things are looking good so far, albeit a little snug. I guess I'll see if it becomes an issue when I start to stuff everything inside.

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I have a few more parts on order that I'll wait for before I start to decide where some holes might go; a couple of spools of 24awg wire, some potentiometers, power switch and speaker jacks
 
Looks like it should be a nice compact setup if everything fits. That's a lot of power for 24 awg on the outputs. Fine for input, but I would run 16 or o12 to the speaker outs given the hypothetical power that board can put out into a 4 ohm load.
 
Looks like it should be a nice compact setup if everything fits. That's a lot of power for 24 awg on the outputs. Fine for input, but I would run 16 or o12 to the speaker outs given the hypothetical power that board can put out into a 4 ohm load.
I have all of the required wires in the Ghent audio wiring kit Watty included for me. The extra 24 awg wire will be for running the input audio to the potentiometers.

I do appreciate you pointing that out!
 
I made the mistake of ordering some cheap TRS jacks from Amazon.

Hmm, what's this brown stuff on the package and label?
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Ah, that's where it came from..
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What even are these?:rofl
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They'll be going back promptly and I'll receive some authentic switchcraft ones in early February :bag
 
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