Setup questions. Ugh.

[JiveTurkey]

So the new baritone guitar has been pretty sweet overall. I am having some setup twitches about it and I would like to actually attempt addressing them myself.




Guitar shipped in B standard with D'Addario XL158 (.013/.017/.026W/.036/.046/.062) strings. I decided to bring it up to LB tuning (C# standard). I am currently using XL116 set (.011/.014/.018/.030/.042) with a .054 on top. It's fine but it needs some more setup attention than just changing string gauges.

Things I want to address:
In C# standard; it's pretty tight. Little bit too high of action. Drop B is about just right but still a little high. It also goes out of tune if I play it too hard. Strings are stretched out by now. If I go back and forth between C# standard and Drop B; it seems like it takes a bit for it to settle in to the change in tuning.

Do I need to bring the tuneomatic down a hair and check the intonation? Or should I try putting the .052 on top that came with the 11s and see if that evens things out? I always have someone else do a setup but like I said; I would like to give it a go myself this time.

 

[Mikael Dez]

So the new baritone guitar has been pretty sweet overall. I am having some setup twitches about it and I would like to actually attempt addressing them myself.




Guitar shipped in B standard with D'Addario XL158 (.013/.017/.026W/.036/.046/.062) strings. I decided to bring it up to LB tuning (C# standard). I am currently using XL116 set (.011/.014/.018/.030/.042) with a .054 on top. It's fine but it needs some more setup attention than just changing string gauges.

Things I want to address:
In C# standard; it's pretty tight. Little bit too high of action. Drop B is about just right but still a little high. It also goes out of tune if I play it too hard. Strings are stretched out by now. If I go back and forth between C# standard and Drop B; it seems like it takes a bit for it to settle in to the change in tuning.

Do I need to bring the tuneomatic down a hair and check the intonation? Or should I try putting the .052 on top that came with the 11s and see if that evens things out? I always have someone else do a setup but like I said; I would like to give it a go myself this time.

If it were me I'd drop the bridge down a bit, check intonation like you said, and I'd also check your neck relief. I usually have my action as low as I can get it without having too much fret buzz (I've learned that I need to compromise a bit there though, zero fret buzz usually means the action is too high for me). I eye the neck relief part, I look down the neck with the headstock pointing at a light source (even a window will do) and I'm just looking for a VERY slight bow in the neck. I know a lot of folks go by measurements and that would be smart for a tech that's setting up other guitars, but I know where my setup sweet spot is by feel and I just tweak til I get there. Hope this helps a bit.

 

[JiveTurkey]

If it were me I'd drop the bridge down a bit, check intonation like you said, and I'd also check your neck relief. I usually have my action as low as I can get it without having too much fret buzz (I've learned that I need to compromise a bit there though, zero fret buzz usually means the action is too high for me). I eye the neck relief part, I look down the neck with the headstock pointing at a light source (even a window will do) and I'm just looking for a VERY slight bow in the neck. I know a lot of folks go by measurements and that would be smart for a tech that's setting up other guitars, but I know where my setup sweet spot is by feel and I just tweak til I get there. Hope this helps a bit.

I thought about DM'ing you but decided to thread it instead I am going to bring the bridge down juuuuuuust a hair. You think the 52 on top instead of the 54 will help? The neck should be good but I will double check it.

 

[gearJunkie]

Neck relief, bridge height, intonate, repeat until satisfied.

Make sure you are not having issues with the nut slots buzzing due to the smaller string gauge. If that's an issue it may be worth having a new nut installed and slotted for your preferred string gauge.

 

[DrewJD82]

I’d rub the wound strings back and forth in the nut slots a bit and make sure they’re good and smoothed out. I just use enough finger pressure to hold the string in place and then slide it back and forth. Sometimes that can cause some tuning hangups. And sometimes it’s just the guitar; I can’t retune either of my Les Pauls without tuning it up several more times after.

If you’d prefer to keep it in C#, I’d lower the action a bit and then start introducing some relief. For relief I do barely an 1/8th of a turn and check it. That’ll loosen the tension up and a little goes a long way!

 

[JiveTurkey]

I’d rub the wound strings back and forth in the nut slots a bit and make sure they’re good and smoothed out. I just use enough finger pressure to hold the string in place and then slide it back and forth. Sometimes that can cause some tuning hangups. And sometimes it’s just the guitar; I can’t retune either of my Les Pauls without tuning it up several more times after.

If you’d prefer to keep it in C#, I’d lower the action a bit and then start introducing some relief. For relief I do barely an 1/8th of a turn and check it. That’ll loosen the tension up and a little goes a long way!

I'm going to give like an 1/8th of a turn on each end of the tunematic posts. As I look for instructions on neck relief I of course have to have some set of luthier tools I have none of. There's a reason why I never do this. Ugh.

 

[Mikael Dez]

I'm going to give like an 1/8th of a turn on each end of the tunematic posts. As I look for instructions on neck relief I of course have to have some set of luthier tools I have none of. There's a reason why I never do this. Ugh.

I just use a regular allen key, just make SURE it's not too small lol or else you'll strip that shit. I think I have like half a dozen of them that have come with guitars over the years in my drawer. As for the 52, I say it's worth a shot if you try everything else - string gauge preference is all subjective of course. A 54 gauge with 27" scale length tuned to C# would be in my sweet spot. for tension.

 

[DrewJD82]

I'm going to give like an 1/8th of a turn on each end of the tunematic posts. As I look for instructions on neck relief I of course have to have some set of luthier tools I have none of. There's a reason why I never do this. Ugh.

Neck relief is easy mang, that’s the ‘less than an 1/8th’ of a turn I was talking about, ya just loosen the truss rod a pinch to introduce relief, tighten it to remove the relief!

And I’d totally experiment with different gauges in the first couple months you have it. I believe every guitar has its perfect gauge/tuning that might not always be the most obvious choice, you just know it when the guitar sounds louder/clearer than other gauges.

 

[JiveTurkey]

I just use a regular allen key, just make SURE it's not too small lol or else you'll strip that shit. I think I have like half a dozen of them that have come with guitars over the years in my drawer. As for the 52, I say it's worth a shot if you try everything else - string gauge preference is all subjective of course. A 54 gauge with 27" scale length tuned to C# would be in my sweet spot. for tension.

I have allen keys out the wazoo It's relief gauges and notched rulers and blah blah blah.

 

[JiveTurkey]

Neck relief is easy mang, that’s the ‘less than an 1/8th’ of a turn I was talking about, ya just loosen the truss rod a pinch to introduce relief, tighten it to remove the relief!

I'm not scared of doing it but I am getting OCD explosion reading the "after that, tap the 19th fret while using a protactor on the left side of the bridge while holding the compression sock on the headstock"

 

[DrewJD82]

I'm not scared of doing it but I am getting OCD explosion reading the "after that, tap the 19th fret while using a protactor on the left side of the bridge while holding the compression sock on the headstock"

Hahahahahahha ya don’t have to do all that, just check the tuning and play it for a few seconds.

 

[dbagchee]

I was there man - had quite the adventure when I tried to finally deal with my PRS. It was worth it to grab a few tools. That said, this is a good trick to check neck relief without any special tools:

 

[JiveTurkey]

Did a couple of twists downward on the tuneomatic posts. Strings are quite a bit more comfortably closer to the fretboard. Good. Did the tap test shown in the video. Looks good so no neck relief needing added or removed. On the intonation; I honestly don't know. The open string, then harmonic at the 12th all sound in tune. It seems to be mainly if I shift to drop B and back to C# standard when the strings lose their tuning enough to audibly notice? I'm going to let it sit a day or so and see how it acclimates. Thanks for the confidence boosters and sage advice here today \m/

 

[dbagchee]

Technically you need to intonate for the primary tuning you are going to use - you are probably losing just enough tension when dropping the low string that it’s going out a bit. I’m guessing the baritone might have more of a tension shift than a normal scale?

 

[gearJunkie]

I like the Stringjoy Super Light set on my baritone, described as ...

Roughly approximating the tension exerted by a set of 9s on standard scale/tuning, this set leaves plenty of room for big bends and soaring leads, but gives you enough power on the bottom to keep things from sounding flabby.

They might provide a little more stability when dropping from C# to B.

 

[newholland]

string over the tailpiece!

 

[JiveTurkey]

Technically you need to intonate for the primary tuning you are going to use - you are probably losing just enough tension when dropping the low string that it’s going out a bit. I’m guessing the baritone might have more of a tension shift than a normal scale?

You are probably on to something. It stabilizes out if I stay in one tuning or the other but doesn't like the back and forth.

I like the Stringjoy Super Light set on my baritone, described as ...



View attachment 53583
They might provide a little more stability when dropping from C# to B.

Wound G string is a tough pill for me. I'm used to playing light almost bass strings but a wound G is weird!

string over the tailpiece!

No tailpiece, just the bridge. I'm going to let it sit in a single tuning.

 

[gearJunkie]

wound G is weird!

Yeah, I agree. I checked my Novo, and it has a plain G. I checked my build sheet and the extra strings Novo included as case candy, and it's actually a custom baritone set matching the Super Lights, but with a plain G.

You can order a custom set for $1 more.

 

[newholland]

agh rats. strungover would probably get you right where you wanna be tension wise if you could do it.

is it painful too tight, or 'if i played it for a month id get used to it' too tight? cause im betting on latter..

also.. i always use a mech pencil in the nut slots and it saves a LOT of nightmares in retuning and settling in.

 

[JiveTurkey]

So played a bit this morning and it seems to like the C# and be at peace with it.

What I'm finding is that I ideally would want 3 guitars in this currently imaginary band:
1. C# Standard
2. Drop C# (one of my Vs is in this and it plays like butter \m/ ) for any songs in drop whatever tuning.
3. Something in B standard for the super lows. AKA Korn