New Pedal Day (Kit build, finally finishing up)

Alex Kenivel said:
Idk.. If I just pull whatever parts I can salvage and bin the rest I'll stop sweating about it, stop coming back to it and stop wasting my time. I'm pretty sure I ripped out one of the pot contacts when yanking the pots off to unsolder/reflow.
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You could just handwire that to whatever it is meant to be connected to.

Alex Kenivel said:
I'll still have the enclosure, backwards-daughterboard'ed switch, another copy of the PCB. I can probably yank the pots out again. The ICs will come out easy. Any other parts that might be of interest?

I've got a breadboard kit coming to me so I'll just start fresh with some basic circuits. I should have just done that from the start instead of getting in way over my head!
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First builds can always be problematic. I had a lot of trouble building a Browne Protein (as two separate pedals) and a Hudson Broadcast. A lot of similar issues that ended up in me getting a proper soldering station, magnifying glass, new 3PDT switches and then reflowing and cleaning up every single solder joint. Now both work just fine.

I was doing a lot of similar debugging to figure out where it went wrong.
 
laxu said:
You could just handwire that to whatever it is meant to be connected to.
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Okay I tried this as a last ditch effort before deciding you fully bin this and while it isn't quite feeling like Young Frankenstein proclaiming "it's alive", It's definitely Abby normal!


Don't laugh:
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Not sure what VR means here but I'm getting no continuity between positive connection and lug 3. I have a feeling I'm misunderstanding with this positive with the VR means
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I learned that all of the points going to VR are all connected together. I've traced the entire circuit at this point.
 
I reseated the pots deeper onto the PCB. I guess there wasn't enough clearance and now the positive pad for a cap is loose. Still working, broke the little tabs off the pots and had no trouble seating the pot shafts through the enclosure. Some simple scrawlings for the controls.
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Still need to get some knobs and paint the thing. I didn't realize (recurring theme I know) a 9v wouldn't fit in the enclosure so I can't really power it unless I pull the back off and let it hang open with a 9v battery connected. I have a Boxking battery that usually powers my HX Stomp and MIDI controller that I can use but then I can't power anything else because the outputs aren't isolated (or some shizz). When I did have it plugged into the Boxking by itself moving the power cable made a ton of noise every time I touched it.

Now I'm looking at pedal power supplies and dreaming up a DIY pedalboard with some of this spare wood I've got..
 
laxu said:
I used spraypaint and some spray clearcoat. My only problem is I didn't put enough layers of clear so it has some scuffs at the corners.
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Was thinking of intricate fine freehand - the only thing im remotely good at, with clear coats on top, but I might just whip out the label maker instead. Not a whole lot of compelling sounds coming out so I might not want to take the time to do something along the lines of my doodling:
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JiveTurkey said:
Sounds great here! Congrats on getting it going \m/
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Thanks it sounds pretty good through the Roland Micro Cube. It does maybe two sounds I like on my MT15's clean channel but the Angry Chuck seems to rob the amp of a lot of high end. I think the pedal would suit a Fender amp well.
 
After I've had a while to play around with it, I've deemed it a keeper, just not for my current rig. It does a nice chunky high gain but a dull and dark low gain with no sparkle. Really needs the gain knob up to make it whistle.

The weird power cable noise ceased with a new isolated power supply.

I think I might want to build a TS and a Prince of Tone clone now.
 
Prepping for paint
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Using spray cans because I have a few. Only blacks I have are flat black so I'll use that. Going for a Marshall amp look.
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I also have a collection of spray caps. Going to use a German Fat because these are high pressure cans. Stock tips are spitty and inconsistent. I'd prefer NY Thin for this but I have no low pressure can of black.
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First pass:
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Oversprayed but that's what you get with high pressure cans and German Fats. Great for those big snowball tags, not so great for taking it easy. It kinda looks like tolex though!
 
Alex Kenivel said:
After I've had a while to play around with it, I've deemed it a keeper, just not for my current rig. It does a nice chunky high gain but a dull and dark low gain with no sparkle. Really needs the gain knob up to make it whistle.

The weird power cable noise ceased with a new isolated power supply.

I think I might want to build a TS and a Prince of Tone clone now.
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If you haven't tried it an ODR1 is a worthwhile build. I had an Aion FX ODR1 board in my build pile for about 4 years and kept ignoring it to build the latest boutique hype drive pedal. It's a bloody fantastic pedal and pairs really well with a prince of tone.
 
SillyOctpuss said:
If you haven't tried it an ODR1 is a worthwhile build. I had an Aion FX ODR1 board in my build pile for about 4 years and kept ignoring it to build the latest boutique hype drive pedal. It's a bloody fantastic pedal and pairs really well with a prince of tone.
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What I'm after is a light crunch in a box to go into a squeaky clean channel and a bass cutting boost for a high gain channel (PRS MT15) . I have no real experience with drive pedals so I'm just going off of what I like in my Helix.

The Prince of Tone model sounds really nice but even with the volume maxed it isn't as loud as it's bypass. Is the actual PoT circuit like that?

What would the ODR1 fall under?
 
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