I will give it a go. Not a vintage shopper or historian by any means, so I am totally fine with being wrong and am curious to know the true answers.
1. Real. Saddles look authentic to me. Also the screws in front look machined on the heads, which looks legit.
2. Ugh. I will say repro because I think it would be a nickel cover, not plastic. But it could be a real P.A.F. in a plastic cover.
3. I say repro. No particular reason other than it looks newer; no patina.
4. Repro. The font on volume pot looks wrong- too bloated, not sharp.
5. Fake- no fret end binding
6. Real. Font looks right.
7. Real Klusons
8. Real - vintage knob font looks good. Also looks more top hatty.
9. Real. All the ones I googled they were pre CBS look like that.
10. Repro. No serial # stamp
I will give the answers because nobody hardly is looking.
1 This is an awesome fake using the same tooling as the original .
2 Real paf 1959 with no cover and the original pickup ring.
3 1959 original abr1.
4 Real 1964 strat knob.
5 It was the switch tip but it is an original 59 LP . It has had a refret hence the loss of binding and also you can see the lacquer is cut down the binding during the refret.
6 Fantastic repro by the same guy that did the bridge. The same process exactly and passes a micrometer test . The font is totally correct because the same brand of dies were used to make it.
7 Real klusons from 59 but replaced plastic. This is quite common because the original plastic cracks up.
8 Repro 61 style strat knob. Very good replica .
9 Real 64 trem arm and tip.
10 Repro 54 Tele bridge. The lack of a serial number is correct for this because they switched to neck plate numbers by this time.
I think you did very well because the repro parts I used for examples are the best of the best, way better than custom shop fender use.
I put this up to show how difficult it's getting these days to identify the best replicas. These repro fender hardware parts are just exact with every tooling mark correct.