Does compound radius actually offer anything?

Those of you that own a guitar with a compound radius fretboard, what’s your take on them

  • I can’t live without it

    Votes: 2 6.5%
  • I prefer it

    Votes: 10 32.3%
  • I can take it or leave it

    Votes: 18 58.1%
  • I regret buying it

    Votes: 1 3.2%

  • Total voters
    31

HomespunEffects

Shredder
TGF Recording Artist
Messages
1,987
I’ve never owned a guitar with a compound radius neck. I’m just wondering if it’s all that or just an unnecessary complication. Are there any special things required in the setup? What else can you tell me about it?
 
I know nothing about setting up a guitar, just that I really like the compound radius on my Ultra Strat over my previous Strat and current Tele. Very comfortable to play up the neck in my personal comparison.
 
I've been interested in them a bit more after realizing I'm pretty content with a 12" radius in general, but can certainly see how a 12"-16" would be absolutely great for lead work. I don't think the setup needs to be any different and would assume you just set the action radius to the higher of the two?
 
Had it on my Charvel San Dimas which was 12-16” I believe. I could take it or leave it.

That said, I would love to try a 7-1/4”-9-1/2” compound radius as I love a 7-1/4” radius for the money notes.
 
It’s about next fret clearance.
It also addresses that the fingerboard is normally a cylinder and the the string plane is a cone . The two don’t fit together properly with the same next fret clearance even without bending a string.
This means that different parts of the neck have a different next fret clearance that in turn a different potential dynamic range. The best rule of thumb for sonic performance is the flatter the better.
There is nothing ergonomic to say that a curved board is better than a totally flat one but familiarity and marketing starting with Fender.
Compounds improve this problem greatly but the range should be related to the string geometry or it still has issues. Bend a string and all the issues are back but the starting point is better. Ironically the only radius that has no issues is no radius.
 
It’s about next fret clearance.
It also addresses that the fingerboard is normally a cylinder and the the string plane is a cone . The two don’t fit together properly with the same next fret clearance even without bending a string.
This means that different parts of the neck have a different next fret clearance that in turn a different potential dynamic range. The best rule of thumb for sonic performance is the flatter the better.
There is nothing ergonomic to say that a curved board is better than a totally flat one but familiarity and marketing starting with Fender.
Compounds improve this problem greatly but the range should be related to the string geometry or it still has issues. Bend a string and all the issues are back but the starting point is better. Ironically the only radius that has no issues is no radius.
I have a Kiesel 7-string with a 20" fretboard radius, so quite flat in comparison to most guitars. It plays absolutely great and I don't really notice the flatness of the fretboard.

It's surprising that kind of thing is not more common.
 
Had only one guitar with compound radious, was a 2016 Les Paul standard, and while the neck was really nice it didn't gave me a wow reaction therefore my answer is I can take it or leave it.

My experience is limited and maybe a Gibson neck is not the best compound radious around, I don't know.
 
Had only one guitar with compound radious, was a 2016 Les Paul standard, and while the neck was really nice it didn't gave me a wow reaction therefore my answer is I can take it or leave it.

My experience is limited and maybe a Gibson neck is not the best compound radious around, I don't know.
No it isn’t just like they plek a guitar without reading it individually at tension first. They are both very bad examples of the concepts in practice.
 
… Ironically the only radius that has no issues is no radius.
Leaving familiarity and feel out of the equation, is flatter better then? Classical nylon string guitars are generally pretty flat, iirc.

I do use a wrap-around thumb technique very often so a flat radius would have to have a less wide fretboard to feel ok, I’d imagine.
 
Leaving familiarity and feel out of the equation, is flatter better then? Classical nylon string guitars are generally pretty flat, iirc.

I do use a wrap-around thumb technique very often so a flat radius would have to have a less wide fretboard to feel ok, I’d imagine.
I don't see why when you look at the difference in the amount your thumb has to move. Zero on the low E and maybe a half mm on the A.
 
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