Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

I have a guitar with locking Grovers. The high e string slips while tuning it after a string change… so it isn’t locking. I have to wrap the string around the post once just to use the guitar. Any advice on repairing it or should I just replace it?
 
I have a guitar with locking Grovers. The high e string slips while tuning it after a string change… so it isn’t locking. I have to wrap the string around the post once just to use the guitar. Any advice on repairing it or should I just replace it?
Swap it with one from a thicker string. The failing tuner will be able to hold a thicker string. This almost always works.
 
Not at all but not because they aren't consistent. IME Gibson manufacturing in general is to a different standard than practically all the rest . Gibson simply does things in the way they always did without caring if the precision that others routinely manage is just missing. Who else doesn't even buff the finish up to the fingerboard edge or on the back of the head ? leave razor scrapes in every bound fingerboard, A lip in the binding. These are not QC just bad process. All that said they are consistently good sounding and perform well, I can't remember when I last saw a poorly functioning truss rod. People just expect Gibson to be Gibson and accept things that they would reject on anything else at the same price.
The same could be said for Rickenbacker, no?
 
@Eagle, how would you fix this? Well maybe not fix, just hide it enough so it's not as apparent?

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@Eagle, how would you fix this? Well maybe not fix, just hide it enough so it's not as apparent?

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Neck off and run water thin super glue under the edges of the damage. You could then build up the missing paint with black superglue. Then mask off the existing paint and shape the repair. For a good finish you would need to airbrush satin 2k over the immediate area. Sunburst it in to the surrounding paint.
 
What are your thoughts on Rickenbacker quality? I generally like really innovative modern guitars, but there is something about the look of Rickenbackers that I’m drawn to.
Have you considered therapy?




On a serious note the build quality is pretty good but the design is a disaster on every level. The only innovation is you can easily remove and replace the truss rod without damaging even the paint.
 
Have you considered therapy?




On a serious note the build quality is pretty good but the design is a disaster on every level. The only innovation is you can easily remove and replace the truss rod without damaging even the paint.
If I ever got one, it would have to be a 12-string. The playability of a Rick is quite different from what I’m used to…
 
If I ever got one, it would have to be a 12-string. The playability of a Rick is quite different from what I’m used to…
The 12 string is horrible to play and worse to string up. The head is so badly designed that strings actually touch it on their way to the tuner. It also has the strings spaced in a way that makes it feel like it’s a neck full of single strings not paired.
 
The 12 string is horrible to play and worse to string up. The head is so badly designed that strings actually touch it on their way to the tuner. It also has the strings spaced in a way that makes it feel like it’s a neck full of single strings not paired.
Oh how wish I hadn’t sold the white Steinberger GL4-12 I used to have 🤦‍♂️
 
So glad you are back @Eagle

What are your thoughts on these newer 50’s and 60’s Les Paul standards? Have you seen or played either?
Hi thanks.
I have played many and I think they are the best standard Les Pauls they have put out excluding historics and custom limited editions. My only complaint is they should have used SD90 tuners instead of the bolt through type.
 
What are your thoughts about necks designed with the fret tangs slightly shorter than the frets, in order to eliminate the possibility of fret sprout? Seems like a great idea to me and I often wonder why there isn’t greater implementation in the industry (at least for more expensive instruments).

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What are your thoughts about necks designed with the fret tangs slightly shorter than the frets, in order to eliminate the possibility of fret sprout? Seems like a great idea to me and I often wonder why there isn’t greater implementation in the industry (at least for more expensive instruments).

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Fret sprout is a once only nothing problem that should not bother anyone. This actually has nothing to do with it and would not prevent it. It would be even sharper on a neck cut like this.
I like this treatment but only to hide the fret tangs. It’s purely cosmetic.
 
Fret sprout is a once only nothing problem that should not bother anyone. This actually has nothing to do with it and would not prevent it. It would be even sharper on a neck cut like this.
I like this treatment but only to hide the fret tangs. It’s purely cosmetic.
Got it. Just to make sure I understand...it wouldn't prevent it because the sharp edges you feel along the fingerboard after fret sprout happens are the frets themselves and not the tangs?
 
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I saw an older thread about plek and you gave your thoughts…do you still have the same opinion? I know for example suhr quit using them and claim their own way is better but of course I’m a bit dubious of a claim like that
 
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