Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

Eagle said:
Get the Mexican one, it’s off the same production line but with a rosewood fingerboard instead of the ebony. Better really. The only difference is fewer options on the electrics and no rechargeable battery. Sounds as good as and plays exactly the same, which can be excellent. It is basically governed by what type of strings you fit as to what it is going to be good for. The preamp is good sounding even if the acoustic sound is thin. But it’s small. They are actually pretty good and the Mexican ones are the sweet spot.
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Thanks, Andy. Really appreciate you being so open with your experience and knowledge like that. :beer

I actually found a used American made one for $800.

I pulled the trigger on it. :idk

Have had some Godins in the past and I know a little about what I am getting into with the inherent
limitations. Figured it was worth taking the leap at that price. :popcorn

I am guessing it can't handle acoustic level tension from 12s or 13s. Do you recommend something
more than 9s or 10s on it. Is there a sweet spot, or happy medium for that kind of guitar?
 
I have a question about guitar action. I received shipment on Wednesday, April 8th of a Knaggs Kenai. I'm a big fan of Knaggs guitars and was looking forward to playing it. I discovered that if I bend the high e and b strings around the 12th fret and above that the note chokes out. I checked the neck relief and it measured right at .010 inches (I used a feeler gauge), maybe just barely over, so I don't want to adjust the truss rod. I just talked to Guitar Center (where I bought the guitar) and in typical Guitar Center fashion I got an evasive answer about whether GC would cover costs for putting the guitar in what I consider playing condition. When I talked to a sales rep at the store that I bought the guitar from, he mentioned that they had done some fret work for a previous customer. I'm concerned that whoever did the fret work was a hack and didn't properly level the frets past the 12th fret. The guitar plays fine in lower registers. I can return the guitar for a full refund minus $25 for shipping. I'm not sure yet if I like the guitar, because I haven't been able to play it properly in it's current condition. I'm tempted to just return it and forget about it. A proper setup will cost me $100 - $150, significantly more if fret work is involved. I'm wondering if you have any thoughts? Other than the obvious "return the guitar and run for the hills!"
 
la szum said:
Thanks, Andy. Really appreciate you being so open with your experience and knowledge like that. :beer

I actually found a used American made one for $800.

I pulled the trigger on it. :idk

Have had some Godins in the past and I know a little about what I am getting into with the inherent
limitations. Figured it was worth taking the leap at that price. :popcorn

I am guessing it can't handle acoustic level tension from 12s or 13s. Do you recommend something
more than 9s or 10s on it. Is there a sweet spot, or happy medium for that kind of guitar?
Click to expand...
$800 is good. Try acoustic 11s.
 
LScottK said:
I have a question about guitar action. I received shipment on Wednesday, April 8th of a Knaggs Kenai. I'm a big fan of Knaggs guitars and was looking forward to playing it. I discovered that if I bend the high e and b strings around the 12th fret and above that the note chokes out. I checked the neck relief and it measured right at .010 inches (I used a feeler gauge), maybe just barely over, so I don't want to adjust the truss rod. I just talked to Guitar Center (where I bought the guitar) and in typical Guitar Center fashion I got an evasive answer about whether GC would cover costs for putting the guitar in what I consider playing condition. When I talked to a sales rep at the store that I bought the guitar from, he mentioned that they had done some fret work for a previous customer. I'm concerned that whoever did the fret work was a hack and didn't properly level the frets past the 12th fret. The guitar plays fine in lower registers. I can return the guitar for a full refund minus $25 for shipping. I'm not sure yet if I like the guitar, because I haven't been able to play it properly in it's current condition. I'm tempted to just return it and forget about it. A proper setup will cost me $100 - $150, significantly more if fret work is involved. I'm wondering if you have any thoughts? Other than the obvious "return the guitar and run for the hills!"
Click to expand...
Sounds like a little too much relief. What is the action at fret 12 ( no capo on one or anything) you should be able to get 50/1/000” ~ 60/1000” E to E with no issues.
 
Eagle said:
Sounds like a little too much relief. What is the action at fret 12 ( no capo on one or anything) you should be able to get 50/1/000” ~ 60/1000” E to E with no issues.
Click to expand...
I won't be able to measure until this evening, or maybe tomorrow morning. I'll reply as soon as I can get the measurements.
 
@Eagle You were right. There was too much relief. The bridge was also a little too low. I did some adjusting and it isn't choking out on the higher strings on the upper frets. Thanks for your suggestion. It helped me redirect my attention. The bow in the neck was pretty significant. I'm not sure how I missed it. Thank you again.
 
jco5055 said:
What do you think is the best fretwire brand? Jescar?
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Jescar is excellent but there are other options these days that are as good. Hosco sell packs of prebent frets that are ready for installation and very useful to someone who only needs a neck’s worth.
Avoid straight precut fret packs like the plague. Dunlop springs to mind. You can not effectively bend short pieces in a fret bender so you’re going to end up having to dress more than normal to accommodate inaccuracy. Sintoms nickel is great but not there stainless in my experience. Dunlop of the roll or in long lengths is also fine. If you want stainless I recommend Jescar and Hosco . Nickel? all the above and even Stewmac.
 
Oddguitar said:
Do you have a preference for machine heads (both locking and non-locking)?
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I have a few favourites. In general though anything without too much backlash will work perfectly .
Favourite manufacturer is easily Gotoh . The 510 delta with 1/21 ratio is excellent and the finish is amazing. Available in all configurations.
I actually also like the SD91 and its variants because they are steel bodies. Best quality kluson vintage by far and also available locking.
I usually dislike OEM own brand but it depends on who is making them. Manufacturers only do this to lower cost whatever they say. I avoid Grover because of backlash and problems with the locking mechanism not to mention how overpriced they are . Stick with Gotoh and you won’t go wrong.
 
Eagle said:
I have a few favourites. In general though anything without too much backlash will work perfectly .
Favourite manufacturer is easily Gotoh . The 510 delta with 1/21 ratio is excellent and the finish is amazing. Available in all configurations.
I actually also like the SD91 and its variants because they are steel bodies. Best quality kluson vintage by far and also available locking.
I usually dislike OEM own brand but it depends on who is making them. Manufacturers only do this to lower cost whatever they say. I avoid Grover because of backlash and problems with the locking mechanism not to mention how overpriced they are . Stick with Gotoh and you won’t go wrong.
Click to expand...
Back in the day high-end guitars favored Sperzels. Then it was Hipshot Grip-Loks and lately it seems that Gotoh MG-T’s are the top choice. Graphtech Ratio tuners are also cool, I just wish they would make a set where all six machine heads have the same 39:1 ratio as the low E tuner. The higher the ratio, the easier I find it to dial in the tuning. Steinberger tuners spoiled me.
 
Oddguitar said:
Back in the day high-end guitars favored Sperzels. Then it was Hipshot Grip-Loks and lately it seems that Gotoh MG-T’s are the top choice. Graphtech Ratio tuners are also cool, I just wish they would make a set where all six machine heads have the same 39:1 ratio as the low E tuner. The higher the ratio, the easier I find it to dial in the tuning. Steinberger tuners spoiled me.
Click to expand...
Tune up to pitch and you won’t have problems anyway. Sperzel had no competition for many years, they were the obvious choice. Hipshot are ok but not really better than any other Korean brand . Ratio are not very well made but work because of the high ratio. The Delta 21/1 is better than all of them in build and has no perceivable backlash.
 
Eagle said:
Tune up to pitch and you won’t have problems anyway. Sperzel had no competition for many years, they were the obvious choice. Hipshot are ok but not really better than any other Korean brand . Ratio are not very well made but work because of the high ratio. The Delta 21/1 is better than all of them in build and has no perceivable backlash.
Click to expand...
I have a fender vintera Telecaster Deluxe that I'd like to change the tuners on. Are there any decent locking ones that would be a straight swap, with no drilling required? PXL_20260415_083332676.jpgPXL_20260415_083345693.jpg
 
bucephalus said:
I have a fender vintera Telecaster Deluxe that I'd like to change the tuners on. Are there any decent locking ones that would be a straight swap, with no drilling required? View attachment 61680View attachment 61681
Click to expand...
Sorry but no. The only one option available is this

Kluson 6-In-Line Locking Revolution Series F-Mount Tuners - StewMac

State of the art, lightweight, diecast tuning machines are designed to directly retrofit the stamped "F" tuning machines.
www.stewmac.com www.stewmac.com
I can’t honestly recommend them but that is all there is.
 
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