Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

I also noticed this on the Fractal forum.

Hopefully he's just on a vacation...

He removed his profile avatar pic, so I’m assuming he decided he needed a break from forums/social media/etc. can’t say I blame him.

I knew he'd left here but didn't know he'd stopped posting on the fractal forum too. I hope he's ok and just wants a break.
 
@Henry
You would have to fill, redrill and refinish anyway as the combined bridge/tailpiece post centers are different to TOM bridge post centers.
Tailpiece/bridge = 81.7mm
TOM bridge = 73.5mm

What are you trying to achieve?
 
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@Henry
You would have to fill, redrill and refinish anyway as the combined bridge/tailpiece post centers are different to TOM bridge post centers.
Tailpiece/bridge = 81.7mm
TOM bridge = 73.5mm

What are you trying to achieve?
Thanks Johnny, appreciate the input! Mostly just a "look" thing, and what I'm used to from my Les Pauls.
 
I really miss having Andy available to ask guitar related questions. I also always appreciated other folks on this thread to chime in with their experiences and opinions!

I'm also in the "Luthiers" FB group and I am not impressed with the kind of questions and answers I see there.

Instead of creating a new thread for every question, would it be acceptable to just continue using this thread, with all the knowledgeable folks that are already "listening" to it chiming in, knowing full well that likely Andy won't be responding to it anymore?
 
Hello legends! (channeling Leon)

Question about Gibson P90s. Apparently there is a variant that has been installed in the "Les Paul Junior 100 Special" model. Slugs instead of screws is the main difference construction wise, I believe. But there might be tonal differences, instead of "warmth", more "screech".

Would it still be a valid pickup for blues/rock application? (No country twang is wanted).

Also, how does height adjustment work on these models? Is it with those two exposed screws?

1760123832445.png


Thanks!
 
Hello legends! (channeling Leon)

Question about Gibson P90s. Apparently there is a variant that has been installed in the "Les Paul Junior 100 Special" model. Slugs instead of screws is the main difference construction wise, I believe. But there might be tonal differences, instead of "warmth", more "screech".

Would it still be a valid pickup for blues/rock application? (No country twang is wanted).

Also, how does height adjustment work on these models? Is it with those two exposed screws?

View attachment 53089

Thanks!

No idea about the tonal changes but yes the height adjustment is via the two screws. There should be foam, springs or both underneath.
 
Hello legends! (channeling Leon)

Question about Gibson P90s. Apparently there is a variant that has been installed in the "Les Paul Junior 100 Special" model. Slugs instead of screws is the main difference construction wise, I believe. But there might be tonal differences, instead of "warmth", more "screech".

Would it still be a valid pickup for blues/rock application? (No country twang is wanted).

Also, how does height adjustment work on these models? Is it with those two exposed screws?

View attachment 53089

Thanks!
Haven’t used that particular model before, but I have a similar designs in a couple of my guitars. Mine are slightly less “rude”, little more clarity and lower volume, but still in the same tonal ballpark as most regular P90 types I have played. Slightly different shade of the same color.
 
On the topic of single coil construction (also mentioning P90s), here is a good article from the Seymour Duncan website. Astounding that there are that many different ways you can build a single coil pickup!

 
Hey Andy,

I've got a question for you, that (I hope) you can answer:

I have a PRS SE Tremonti since 2012. It's one of the early ones with wrap around bridge. Every time I play a low e (zero on the 6th string) I get a "cling". Nowhere else. Not anywhere else on the neck no matter if it's a fretted or open note.

You have any idea what this could be?

And: While we're at it do you have a reccomendation for a new bridge with individual saddles? Just having 2 intonation screws (each side 1) sucks.
With @Eagle away on a potty break, I’ll grab the podium and grandstand for a minute. :)

This could be a few things. Without actually seeing the guitar, and without knowing what a “cling” sounds like, my first guess is that the low-E nut slot is too low, and when you play the open string, it’s hitting the first fret.
 
With @Eagle away on a potty break, I’ll grab the podium and grandstand for a minute. :)

This could be a few things. Without actually seeing the guitar, and without knowing what a “cling” sounds like, my first guess is that the low-E nut slot is too low, and when you play the open string, it’s hitting the first fret.
So it could be (quite easily?) solved by giving the truss rod a nudge towards the neck having a tiny bit more curve?
 
So it could be (quite easily?) solved by giving the truss rod a nudge towards the neck having a tiny bit more curve?

That is a really bad way to correct a miscut nut slot. I would start by verifying if it is the nut, then you can temporarily fill in the slot and recut (baking soda and superglue trick) until you get a new nut, or just get a new nut.

If the problem is not the nut, fix the actual problem. I would only adjust the true rod if the relief is off and that is checked without the nut or bridge in the equation.
 
So it could be (quite easily?) solved by giving the truss rod a nudge towards the neck having a tiny bit more curve?
A truss rod tweak might fix the problem, at the expense of having too much relief. You really want to fix a nut problem at the not.

Bear in mind that we haven’t yet established that a low nut slot is the problem. It’s just the most likely one. You can check by fretting behind the third fret, and pressing down on the short length of string between the second fret and the nut. If you can press it down at all before it touches the first fret, your nut slot isn’t too low.
 
A truss rod tweak might fix the problem, at the expense of having too much relief. You really want to fix a nut problem at the not.

Bear in mind that we haven’t yet established that a low nut slot is the problem. It’s just the most likely one. You can check by fretting behind the third fret, and pressing down on the short length of string between the second fret and the nut. If you can press it down at all before it touches the first fret, your nut slot isn’t too low.
Okay. Will try that tomorrow!

I installed a pre-cut black TusQ nut on it (measurements *should* fit) and threw away the factory nut (white plastic). Maybe I sanded down a bit too much on the bottom of the nut.
 
and threw away the factory nut

Why? Nuts really need to be cut for the guitar. I view a precut nut as something that might work in a pinch, and can get you close for further tuning, but they can also be over cut out of the box and leave you with only bad options.
 
Okay. Will try that tomorrow!

I installed a pre-cut black TusQ nut on it (measurements *should* fit) and threw away the factory nut (white plastic). Maybe I sanded down a bit too much on the bottom of the nut.
Do you have a feeler gauge? If not, get something like this: https:// www.amazon.com/dp/B07XPD9L1C
That also lets you measure relief more consistently.

I target about .018" clearance to the first fret on the low E string for a 46 low E string - it should be a little higher for higher gauges, not too much like say .020" for a 52, 0.022" for a 60.
 
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