Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

la szum said:
Well, it's a really nice guitar, and fun to play. Just wondered about squeezing
another 1.67% of fun out of it. :LOL:

Any thoughts on the annoying mechanical resonances that seem to increase with a
Floyd, @Eagle over a fixed bridge, or a traditional Strat Trem? :idk

I saw this recent Tom Buckovac Video and was like, "Yup. It's true for me, too."



Timestamped.
Click to expand...

A Floyd and a fixed bridge are just different and there is a few things you can do to make it more similar but it’s not the same. An EVH set up gets pretty close though.
 
Chocol8 said:
That I agree with. If you have a cheap pot metal import it could be pretty noticeable, but replacing one brand of steel with another won’t do much except lighten your wallet.
Click to expand...
Also the saddles and the bridge plate account for most of the string energy transfer particularly on a 6 screw . Saddles on a Strat make far more difference than any block.
 
Do you ever roll the fretboard edges on a bound Gibson neck Andy? The edges of my tokais fretboard feel pretty square compared to my tele.
 
SillyOctpuss said:
Do you ever roll the fretboard edges on a bound Gibson neck Andy? The edges of my tokais fretboard feel pretty square compared to my tele.
Click to expand...
No but Pensa guitars do . I think it’s going to be difficult to refret on a Gibson because you are going to lose width. The nibs will be lost and the fret end will need to be dressed .
 
SillyOctpuss said:
So leave well alone then.
Click to expand...
The Pensa also a real problem to refret.
IMG_4731.jpeg

Possible but difficult and expensive.
 
Eagle said:
Neck angle, bridge hight , nut hight and relief all change the action. Then you need to adjust them in order so the next thing you do doesn’t alter the previous. There is also no way to describe what exactly a non effective truss rod will actually do or feel like in practice.
Click to expand...
This.

A guitar setup is pretty straightforward if you do it right and there are no surprises. But if there's weirdness in how the neck behaves or in the basic geometry of its parts, there's no simple rule to tell you what to do next, because everything interacts with everything else.
 
Rex said:
This.

A guitar setup is pretty straightforward if you do it right and there are no surprises. But if there's weirdness in how the neck behaves or in the basic geometry of its parts, there's no simple rule to tell you what to do next, because everything interacts with everything else.
Click to expand...
spot on.
 
Eagle said:
Real or replica?
Click to expand...
Hmmm... I'm not an antiquity expert, but here are some impressions....

- The crazing in the first picture looks legit, though I've seen well-crafted crazing with a similar pattern. It also shows a row of dings that I associate with a relic job. But there's also a ding that matches the pattern of the crazing, so that suggests legit. The dings appear to be finish-only, with rolled edges that are hard to replicate with abrasives.

- In the third picture, the knobs and pickups look like years of accumulated crud that's been given the once-over with a cleaning cloth. But the pickguard looks like it came from a different guitar with much less wear.

- Ditto for the fourth picture. This shows some interesting wear on the heel end of the fingerboard, but also some staining on the face of the heel that looks like there might have been some solvent there. The heel face also shows some uneven discoloration in the finish.


Whichever one is a replica, the work was done with care.
 
Eagle said:
Hello everyone.
A few words of introduction;
I have been a repair tech full time for 30 years and on the side of a proper job before that. I also work with collectors, insurance and auction houses authenticating vintage and ex rock star gear.
Basically if you have an issue I have more than likely seen it before.
I firmly advocate that there is objectively good and bad in both music (not for this column) and musical instruments and it is far from just opinion. I base what I write on my experience and empirical data if available and have no affiliation with any companies as this would compromise my ability to say what I find and this is why people come to me in the first instance. I also call myself a repair tech not a luthier because I deal mostly with a diagnostic approach to solving peoples problems and not scratch building .

So as the title says;

Ask me anything!
Click to expand...
Ok… I’m new to the electronic end of things..

I just got my hands on a Marshall JMP MKII 50w head…
Since I play hard rock/ metal, what would be the best 4x12 Marshall cab, to pair with the head.
They seem to have a multitude of of wattages…
I’m thinking a 1960a, rated at 300w isnt the way to go. I’d imagine something rated at a lower wattage. Would distort easier.
On the other hand, I don’t want to go too low, and run the risk of blowing speakers…
Any suggestions please?
 
S Archer said:
Ok… I’m new to the electronic end of things..

I just got my hands on a Marshall JMP MKII 50w head…
Since I play hard rock/ metal, what would be the best 4x12 Marshall cab, to pair with the head.
They seem to have a multitude of of wattages…
I’m thinking a 1960a, rated at 300w isnt the way to go. I’d imagine something rated at a lower wattage. Would distort easier.
On the other hand, I don’t want to go too low, and run the risk of blowing speakers…
Any suggestions please?
Click to expand...
Andy usually answers guitar related questions here - try this thread: https://thegearforum.com/threads/sa...-engineer-jvm-yjm-afd.477/page-23#post-373792
 
S Archer said:
I’m thinking a 1960a, rated at 300w isnt the way to go. I’d imagine something rated at a lower wattage. Would distort easier.
Click to expand...

Don't pay too much attention to speaker wattage ratings. For a 50W head that can put out 80+ watts distorted, you want four speakers with a rating of 25 watts each OR GREATOR, maybe a bit less if they are conservatively rated like the reproduction 20w Celestions or you won't be hitting it a max volume with a lot of distortion or fuzz.

There is no "too high" for wattage ratings and limited circumstances, usually related to chasing vintage accuracy, where it matters. You are not hearing any real speaker distortion with these speakers and the wattage rating doesn't tell you when a cone breaks up anyway, it is usually an electrical and heat limit.

Personally I would get a used cab, and load it with greenbacks (normal or the 20w versions) or greenback clones like the Scumback M75's or Fat Jimmy GB series. Others prefer the larger magnets, or something modern like the ever popular V30. The choice should come down to tone you want not wattage. The breakup comes from the amp.
 
S Archer said:
Ok… I’m new to the electronic end of things..

I just got my hands on a Marshall JMP MKII 50w head…
Since I play hard rock/ metal, what would be the best 4x12 Marshall cab, to pair with the head.
They seem to have a multitude of of wattages…
I’m thinking a 1960a, rated at 300w isnt the way to go. I’d imagine something rated at a lower wattage. Would distort easier.
On the other hand, I don’t want to go too low, and run the risk of blowing speakers…
Any suggestions please?
Click to expand...
Sorry I am not an amp tech but you can use a greenback cab with that too .
 
Chocol8 said:
Don't pay too much attention to speaker wattage ratings. For a 50W head that can put out 80+ watts distorted, you want four speakers with a rating of 25 watts each OR GREATOR, maybe a bit less if they are conservatively rated like the reproduction 20w Celestions or you won't be hitting it a max volume with a lot of distortion or fuzz.

There is no "too high" for wattage ratings and limited circumstances, usually related to chasing vintage accuracy, where it matters. You are not hearing any real speaker distortion with these speakers and the wattage rating doesn't tell you when a cone breaks up anyway, it is usually an electrical and heat limit.

Personally I would get a used cab, and load it with greenbacks (normal or the 20w versions) or greenback clones like the Scumback M75's or Fat Jimmy GB series. Others prefer the larger magnets, or something modern like the ever popular V30. The choice should come down to tone you want not wattage. The breakup comes from the amp.
Click to expand...
This👆🏻
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

laxu
The tube Lazarus rises!
Replies
6
Views
329
Whizzinby
Whizzinby
Back
Top