Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

la szum said:
Well, it's a really nice guitar, and fun to play. Just wondered about squeezing
another 1.67% of fun out of it. :LOL:

Any thoughts on the annoying mechanical resonances that seem to increase with a
Floyd, @Eagle over a fixed bridge, or a traditional Strat Trem? :idk

I saw this recent Tom Buckovac Video and was like, "Yup. It's true for me, too."



Timestamped.
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A Floyd and a fixed bridge are just different and there is a few things you can do to make it more similar but it’s not the same. An EVH set up gets pretty close though.
 
Chocol8 said:
That I agree with. If you have a cheap pot metal import it could be pretty noticeable, but replacing one brand of steel with another won’t do much except lighten your wallet.
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Also the saddles and the bridge plate account for most of the string energy transfer particularly on a 6 screw . Saddles on a Strat make far more difference than any block.
 
Do you ever roll the fretboard edges on a bound Gibson neck Andy? The edges of my tokais fretboard feel pretty square compared to my tele.
 
SillyOctpuss said:
Do you ever roll the fretboard edges on a bound Gibson neck Andy? The edges of my tokais fretboard feel pretty square compared to my tele.
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No but Pensa guitars do . I think it’s going to be difficult to refret on a Gibson because you are going to lose width. The nibs will be lost and the fret end will need to be dressed .
 
SillyOctpuss said:
So leave well alone then.
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The Pensa also a real problem to refret.
IMG_4731.jpeg

Possible but difficult and expensive.
 
Eagle said:
Neck angle, bridge hight , nut hight and relief all change the action. Then you need to adjust them in order so the next thing you do doesn’t alter the previous. There is also no way to describe what exactly a non effective truss rod will actually do or feel like in practice.
Click to expand...
This.

A guitar setup is pretty straightforward if you do it right and there are no surprises. But if there's weirdness in how the neck behaves or in the basic geometry of its parts, there's no simple rule to tell you what to do next, because everything interacts with everything else.
 
Rex said:
This.

A guitar setup is pretty straightforward if you do it right and there are no surprises. But if there's weirdness in how the neck behaves or in the basic geometry of its parts, there's no simple rule to tell you what to do next, because everything interacts with everything else.
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spot on.
 
Eagle said:
Real or replica?
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Hmmm... I'm not an antiquity expert, but here are some impressions....

- The crazing in the first picture looks legit, though I've seen well-crafted crazing with a similar pattern. It also shows a row of dings that I associate with a relic job. But there's also a ding that matches the pattern of the crazing, so that suggests legit. The dings appear to be finish-only, with rolled edges that are hard to replicate with abrasives.

- In the third picture, the knobs and pickups look like years of accumulated crud that's been given the once-over with a cleaning cloth. But the pickguard looks like it came from a different guitar with much less wear.

- Ditto for the fourth picture. This shows some interesting wear on the heel end of the fingerboard, but also some staining on the face of the heel that looks like there might have been some solvent there. The heel face also shows some uneven discoloration in the finish.


Whichever one is a replica, the work was done with care.
 
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