Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

Back on the subject of Vintage and repro Look at these:
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Three are vintage, one is CS Fender, one is best repro I've seem and the last one is half late original with repro saddles. This used to be easy, originals were obvious and repros pretty bad or deliberately different but now the value is skyrocketing for the best examples of early Fender we get this attention to detail.
 

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This used to be easy, originals were obvious and repros pretty bad or deliberately different but now the value is skyrocketing for the best examples of early Fender we get this attention to detail.
Do you have any concern of seeing an increase in fakes that can't be reasonably disproven?
 
Neck plates used to be easy too. Nobody got the font right and they were usually stamped after the chrome instead of before.
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You can't really use these alone as a red flag when the originals are the same as the best repros.
 
Do you have any concern of seeing an increase in fakes that can't be reasonably disproven?
Yes, But there are a few things left to look for.
Nobody does repro electronics and tuners are missing pat numbers.
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The cap is easy but not these pots or this incarnation of the CRL switch.
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Small details in wood are easily copied.
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Nail holes and pin router starts can be added.
 
The best fakes I have seen had NOS electrics that were correct and original tuners.
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These are perfect but no pat numbers.
 
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61 transition sanding
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Quality (Musikraft) replica kit neck.
Now mod it a bit for hard shape and transition;
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And the finished guitar
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This particular one is mine built with all original details replicated bar the radius and the frets.
the electrics are not nos though;
 
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They are in the spirit of the originals and as close as possible.
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Nitrate pick guard and cloth wire. Custom shop Duncan 61 speck pickups.
 
Hello Andy a Tech im pretty sure you know a thing or 2 About pickups
im looking at some Dimarzio rails for the neck position
Looking at their site im wondering what do these numbers really mean like this

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Bass, low mid, high mid and treble
what do these values represent? like bass 7 or 2 and treble 8 or 4 ?

Thank you
 
Hello Andy a Tech im pretty sure you know a thing or 2 About pickups
im looking at some Dimarzio rails for the neck position
Looking at their site im wondering what do these numbers really mean like this

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Bass, low mid, high mid and treble
what do these values represent? like bass 7 or 2 and treble 8 or 4 ?

Thank you
It is an attempt to give you a tone footprint. They are just out of ten . It just tells you there’s not much treble in that one and it probably won’t work out as a neck pickup. It’s also pretty hot.
 
It is an attempt to give you a tone footprint. They are just out of ten . It just tells you there’s not much treble in that one and it probably won’t work out as a neck pickup. It’s also pretty hot.
Thanks Andy so yes just a guide for tone So in example for a Bridge Rail I'm looking for less high shrill and tighter bass for power chords
My bridge pickup is inverted (Charvel DK-22 ProMod) i Should be looking for something with lower treble and for bass should I be looking at higher values or lower values ? Im not sur if a higher bass rating means tighter or more flubby ?

Again thank you for your valued input
 
Thanks Andy so yes just a guide for tone So in example for a Bridge Rail I'm looking for less high shrill and tighter bass for power chords
My bridge pickup is inverted (Charvel DK-22 ProMod) i Should be looking for something with lower treble and for bass should I be looking at higher values or lower values ? Im not sur if a higher bass rating means tighter or more flubby ?

Again thank you for your valued input
Brighter lower output balances well in the neck position because that part of the string moves more and has an inerrant warmth that can easily turn in to flub with the wrong pickup. In the bridge position tight and treble are inherent so to avoid ice pick tone pickups need less treble. Also with less string movement more output for good to compensate. This is why on vintage Strats you often see the bridge pickup close and the other two backed down to balance the volume because the three pickups were the same.
 
So for my bridge pickup i should lean towards either a SD-S or a ToneZone -S or something more like the Fast Track-2 ? or Air Norton-S
Looking for less icepick shrill and tight bass not flabby

Thanks for your valued Input
 
So for my bridge pickup i should lean towards either a SD-S or a ToneZone -S or something more like the Fast Track-2 ? or Air Norton-S
Looking for less icepick shrill and tight bass not flabby

Thanks for your valued Input
Yes high output and more bass in the bridge and clarity for the neck.
 
So for my bridge pickup i should lean towards either a SD-S or a ToneZone -S or something more like the Fast Track-2 ? or Air Norton-S
Looking for less icepick shrill and tight bass not flabby

Thanks for your valued Input
Air Norton S is killer. Quite warm, but not flubby.
 
Hello Andy, say have you ever worked on or seen these guitars ?
Any thoughts ?


Cheers
Mike
 
Hello Andy, say have you ever worked on or seen these guitars ?
Any thoughts ?


Cheers
Mike
Think Ibanez Japan quality. I quite like them.
 
Hello Andy another ask Andy what he thinks :D
ever play or work on this SuperStrat?
its made in Indonesia by Cort which makes a lot of guitars for a lot of companies
this one has some killer hardware for under $1,400.00 CDN


Thanks for your input
 
Hello Andy another ask Andy what he thinks :D
ever play or work on this SuperStrat?
its made in Indonesia by Cort which makes a lot of guitars for a lot of companies
this one has some killer hardware for under $1,400.00 CDN


Thanks for your input
Yes and a few similar versions over the years. When you get the use of proper hardware and pickups these start to become interesting because you aren’t going to feel the need to spend on replacement components but pots and switch are often budget still and you may want to replace them. These are Ibanez premium quality so you still need to cherry pick if possible because QC can vary a bit.
 
What's the benefit of changing out switches when there are no issues?

Is it mostly to avoid breakdown at the worst possible time in the future?
 
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