Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

Eagle said:
The value wouldn’t really change much as the binding fades. It is the plastic itself that is discolouring. There isn’t anything you can do except keep it out of direct sunlight or any light. The binding is unlikely to loose structural integrity and I would just keep it in the case.
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Thank you very much for your reply. I'll leave it in it's case.

All the best,
Scott (and Merry Christmas!)
 
Tried these Andy?

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Got one today and wow what a great tool. If I'm not careful my Edwards LP neck will be a Wizard in no time :grin
 
Eagle said:
Yes they are really good but I don’t have much use for them most of the time.
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Yeah I guess neck reshaping isn't something you do all that often. I have have two necks with too much shoulder for my liking, so I figured it was worth the £20.
 
Blix said:
Yeah I guess neck reshaping isn't something you do all that often. I have have two necks with too much shoulder for my liking, so I figured it was worth the £20.
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Absolutely. An self unclogging file what is not to like.,
 
Not a single guitar I have came with a perfect nut level, all of them were cut high. Proper nut cut is one of the most important part of a great playing instrumt and one of the least payed attention to details in a factory setup, weird how that works.
 
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James Freeman said:
Not a single guitar I have came with a perfect nut level, all of them were cut high. Proper nut cut is one of the most important part of a great playing instrumt and one of the least payed attention to details in a factory setup, weird how that works.
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Most high end guitars get this right but you’re right to say that many companies still air on slightly higher than ideal. It’s far easier to fix than too low though so I don’t mind. I would also much prefer if companies started fitting the nut AFTER the guitar was finished so it’s easier to replace without having to cut it.
Floyd Rose nut hight and radius are far more problematic on most guitars. These tend to need attention on all instruments regardless of price.
 
According to my tech guitar needs re-fretting. from 10th fret it has a bow/hump and apparently only way to fix is to level it.....

Thats why its choking notes and he put back my original nut from gotoh upgrade sayon.. it was 5mm high and i either put original or he has to file it which will be more time and more chi ching. £350

I put original nut back in and its bit easier to play and do pinch harmonics. but my whamy wont go up like its used to. seems like something is blocking it.... i can only do tiny bit.


This give me good reason to buy new guitar for gigs.... and use this as a practice guitar.. but all this problems with amps and guitars and spending money make me want to call it a day.... sigh...

:brick:guiness
 
megametal7 said:
According to my tech guitar needs re-fretting. from 10th fret it has a bow/hump and apparently only way to fix is to level it.....

Thats why its choking notes and he put back my original nut from gotoh upgrade sayon.. it was 5mm high and i either put original or he has to file it which will be more time and more chi ching. £350

I put original nut back in and its bit easier to play and do pinch harmonics. but my whamy wont go up like its used to. seems like something is blocking it.... i can only do tiny bit.


This give me good reason to buy new guitar for gigs.... and use this as a practice guitar.. but all this problems with amps and guitars and spending money make me want to call it a day.... sigh...

:brick:guiness
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Is the relief basically dead flat to half the thickness of your high E? If not adjust it until it is. Then reset the action and see how it performs. If it is the same with this set properly he may be correct buy without it in front of me it’s difficult to advise beyond this.
 
Eagle said:
Is the relief basically dead flat to half the thickness of your high E? If not adjust it until it is. Then reset the action and see how it performs. If it is the same with this set properly he may be correct buy without it in front of me it’s difficult to advise beyond this.
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low E side is straight, high E from 10th fret it a dips... i can see it when he showed me.
 
Andy, what's your take on truss rod relief?
I usually set it as straight as possible with minimal bow unless there is something wrong with the neck.
My preferred action is 1.5mm-1.25mm (E-to-e) at the 12th fret with 1st fret fretted, from my experience minimal bow is required for the neck action to feel consistent across the entire fretboard.
 
James Freeman said:
Andy, what's your take on truss rod relief?
I usually set it as straight as possible with minimal bow unless there is something wrong with the neck.
My preferred action is 1.5mm-1.25mm (E-to-e) at the 12th fret with 1st fret fretted, from my experience minimal bow is required for the neck action to feel consistent across the entire fretboard.
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You have this completely correct. The best next fret clearances are when the neck is almost dead straight. Half the thickness of your high E around fret 7-8 . Any less and it tends to buzz around 5 , more and it buzzes (chokes) in the upper register. This is correct regardless of string gauge or preference is action.
A lot of people who like a higher action think it should be more but all they are doing is reducing the dynamic rage and reducing the sonic benefits of their higher action.
 
Any thoughts on Caps, Andy? Would you recommend something different
for Strats/Teles/Single Coils than you would Les Paul/Humbuckers---apart
from the Cap values, which I am aware of.

Thanks! :beer
 
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