Andy Eagle ( Guitar repair tech for 30 years )

Buy this and forget the rest unless you have an old real strobe from Peterson,the pedals are no good.
IMG_3403.jpeg
 
Amen to the Turbo Tuner. It's one of those "it just works" utility pedals. The battery on the non-Mini model also lasts a long time. I have had mine for literally several years now and it had the battery the previous owner put in it. I only had to replace it a few weeks ago.
 
@Eagle, what's your take on the whole "how long should you let the guitar rest after adjusting the truss rod" thing?

You find conflicting opinion on the subject online - some say "just turn the truss rod in small increments until it's right", others say "you should let it rest for X time before adjusting again to let the wood settle."
 
laxu said:
@Eagle, what's your take on the whole "how long should you let the guitar rest after adjusting the truss rod" thing?

You find conflicting opinion on the subject online - some say "just turn the truss rod in small increments until it's right", others say "you should let it rest for X time before adjusting again to let the wood settle."
Click to expand...
It totally depends on the type of truss rod. If it is a modern two way in a straight channel it doesn’t need any time. The only type that needs time is loosening a vintage single rod . The string tension then slowly pulls the neck in to the adjustment. Sometimes this just won’t work particularly if the neck is thick and stiff naturally. Tightening a vintage rod is also instant.
 
@Eagle Acoustic related

Andy, looking to pick up an A/E after the new year celebrations...what is your recommendation for a single cutaway (no dread or jumbo).

I prefer a GA size to run Elixir 11s. Trying to keep it below $800. Thank you for your input...
 
From a practical useable perspective at that price I would audition as many Lower end Taylor guitars as I could . Build is always solid and amplified tone is acceptable.
 
Hi Andy, do you think this Kaish stainless steel set is a worthwhile upgrade to the FR that is in a MIM Fender Player Stratocaster? Or rather just update to a complete Original FR?
1703200021189.png
 
Henry said:
Hi Andy, do you think this Kaish stainless steel set is a worthwhile upgrade to the FR that is in a MIM Fender Player Stratocaster? Or rather just update to a complete Original FR? View attachment 16183
Click to expand...
If you have a Floyd Special these are a great improvement. They are nicely cnc machined .The only issue that ever comes up is sometimes they are a bit stiff in the hing and the fine tuner sticks but I have always managed to get them to move smoothly with a little bit of oil. Amazing value.
 
Something that puzzles me is my MIM strat I bought about 10 years ago. After I got over the honeymoon period I deemed it a "just okay" guitar.
Kinda dead, just felt slow and it lacked response. Then a couple years ago I on a whim I tried my Vega-Trem on it and it came alive! That dead sluggish response disappeared and now it's one of my favourites.
Somehow the stars (parts) aligned on that guitar. The Vega-trem does not sound like a trad strat trem, you don't want it on a guitar for your typical vintage strat tones, but on this guitar it did the trick.


IMG_8635.jpeg
 
Blix said:
Something that puzzles me is my MIM strat I bought about 10 years ago. After I got over the honeymoon period I deemed it a "just okay" guitar.
Kinda dead, just felt slow and it lacked response. Then a couple years ago I on a whim I tried my Vega-Trem on it and it came alive! That dead sluggish response disappeared and now it's one of my favourites.
Somehow the stars (parts) aligned on that guitar. The Vega-trem does not sound like a trad strat trem, you don't want it on a guitar for your typical vintage strat tones, but on this guitar it did the trick.


View attachment 16476
Click to expand...
The original trem has a sintered pot metal block which is made by filling a die with zinc powder and heating it up just enough to stick it together. This as a disaster for tone because it absorbs string energy like a string dampener. The only saving grace is the top plate and saddles being stamped steel plate manage to get save it a bit. If you tap a block made like this it produces a dull short knock. It’s as much about way the block is produced as the metal. Gotoh use zinc for the T block on some 510 trems and it sounds good because it is poured as a liquid in to the mold. You are mostly hearing what happens when you allow the string energy to go through a much stiffer material. The best sounding trems and bridges are made from rolled stock cnc milled .
 
Eagle said:
The original trem has a sintered pot metal block which is made by filling a die with zinc powder and heating it up just enough to stick it together. This as a disaster for tone because it absorbs string energy like a string dampener. The only saving grace is the top plate and saddles being stamped steel plate manage to get save it a bit. If you tap a block made like this it produces a dull short knock. It’s as much about way the block is produced as the metal. Gotoh use zinc for the T block on some 510 trems and it sounds good because it is poured as a liquid in to the mold. You are mostly hearing what happens when you allow the string energy to go through a much stiffer material. The best sounding trems and bridges are made from rolled stock cnc milled .
Click to expand...
Ahhh, that makes all kinds of sense, no wonder the guitar responded better with a trem not made out of crap metal.
 
Last edited:
Blix said:
Ahhh, that makes all kinds of sense, no wonder the guitar resounded better with a trem not made out of crap metal.
Click to expand...
It’s one of the reasons budget guitars are not a bargain. Even if the wood was a lucky dice roll the hardware is guaranteed crap like the electrics. Then paint 3mm of bendy plastic dip on and you have a Sire🤣

The good thing for you was that Mexican Fenders are fully compatible with replacement parts made by all manufacturers for USA Fender and most of the so called new “amazing value “ brands are not, making even the normaly easy mods a job for an experienced tech and therefore expensive.
 
@Eagle - Telecaster topic

What would you recommend for a good value Telecaster ? Doesn't matter to me where it was made....

Classic Vibe ? Performer ? Prefer rosewood FB. Not looking for custom shop pieces. I'm talking "off the rack".

Thank you
 
I really like the Vola Vasti, their take on a Telecaster MiJ, All Gotoh hardware amazing price performance

volaguitars.com

Vasti V3 MC

Vola's version of the iconic single cutaway, with some modern innovations to take your music a step further. Handmade in Japan, this guitar features high quality workmanship, Gotoh hardware, the modern C neck profile with hard maple wood, and an ash body. Installed with the Vola VDR I bridge...
volaguitars.com volaguitars.com

1703948236491.png
 
Eagle said:
If you have a Floyd Special these are a great improvement. They are nicely cnc machined .The only issue that ever comes up is sometimes they are a bit stiff in the hing and the fine tuner sticks but I have always managed to get them to move smoothly with a little bit of oil. Amazing value.
Click to expand...
I could not get to screw in the new stainless steel screws (saddle and fine tuners) into the FR Special. I think it's just a thick layer of chrome that is applied after they cut the threads. I bought a tap and die set and recut all threads. They are M3x0.5 and M5x0.8, for reference, if anyone has to do the same thing too. I also upgraded to a push-in arm. It looks nice now. It will be a while before I put the guitar back together though, major other work going on ...

1704057228509.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top