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I’m starting to wire up my FM9 board; the goal was to keep the FM9’s jacks in great condition by not utilizing them every time I plug into it and getting some kind of breakout/junction box to take on the wear and tear. It’s also a pain in the ass to read everything on the back panel of the FM9 in gig lighting, I’d rather just have one area I plug everything into for convenience sake.
Tip #1- When measuring your board size, PLUG ALL YOUR SHIT IN and THEN measure! More specifically, use the EXACT cables you plan on using to do this, so you know how everything lines up. The more shit you cram in a small space, the more important it is to do this.
TBF, I had 14” to work with as I need this board to fit the case it’ll be going in (14”x 34”) eventually, so this particular issue couldn’t really be avoided and I’m hoping the newer low profile jacks save the day.
There’s *just* enough room for that junction box to fit between the IEC and MIDI jacks. I mean JUST and not in a way I’d prefer in case something goes wrong. Everything would be too tight to work on without ripping it all apart.
I’d rather use all right-angle jacks coming out of the j-box and to the amp, like this-
But the IEC location won’t allow for it, unless I raise the FM9 up about a half-inch and I don’t want to do that, so I’ll probably run with this instead-
This leaves space for the IEC, MIDI cables and everything going into the j-box. There’s just enough clearance from the board height to not force the cables in any direction.
I was also going to do the same thing with the IEC, get a J-box for it, but I got one of these instead-
It’s just a 1’ left-angle extension (right angle is pictured, I got a left angle) that I’ll tie down to the board with a zip tie/holder to take on any stress if someone trips on the power cable off the board. I figure any way I can keep power/audio lines from touching/running along side each other, the better off I’ll be. The j-boxes I/O is fully isolated.
On the other side I’ve got a basic I/O box for the guitar’s input. This was initially going to go where the single momentary switch is, but I need that momentary switch to switch to lead presets when I use the wah/Whammy pedals. In the future I’m going to add an A/B switch that’ll have both a wireless and this cable plugged into it so I can use whichever without disconnecting anything, or if the wireless goes down live.
I’m giving those solderless pedalboard wiring kits a shot-
It’ll be here tomorrow so I can complete all the actual connections to the board, as well as a low-profile right angle MIDI jack to go to the j-box. I have all these old cables I was going to cut up for it, but I hate soldering so screw it.
Once I’m done wiring it all up I’ll start on the snakes that’ll run to the amp, I only need one but I’ll make a backup or two for shits and giggles, all right angle jacks on one end and straight on the other.
Tip #1- When measuring your board size, PLUG ALL YOUR SHIT IN and THEN measure! More specifically, use the EXACT cables you plan on using to do this, so you know how everything lines up. The more shit you cram in a small space, the more important it is to do this.
TBF, I had 14” to work with as I need this board to fit the case it’ll be going in (14”x 34”) eventually, so this particular issue couldn’t really be avoided and I’m hoping the newer low profile jacks save the day.
There’s *just* enough room for that junction box to fit between the IEC and MIDI jacks. I mean JUST and not in a way I’d prefer in case something goes wrong. Everything would be too tight to work on without ripping it all apart.
I’d rather use all right-angle jacks coming out of the j-box and to the amp, like this-
But the IEC location won’t allow for it, unless I raise the FM9 up about a half-inch and I don’t want to do that, so I’ll probably run with this instead-
This leaves space for the IEC, MIDI cables and everything going into the j-box. There’s just enough clearance from the board height to not force the cables in any direction.
I was also going to do the same thing with the IEC, get a J-box for it, but I got one of these instead-
It’s just a 1’ left-angle extension (right angle is pictured, I got a left angle) that I’ll tie down to the board with a zip tie/holder to take on any stress if someone trips on the power cable off the board. I figure any way I can keep power/audio lines from touching/running along side each other, the better off I’ll be. The j-boxes I/O is fully isolated.
On the other side I’ve got a basic I/O box for the guitar’s input. This was initially going to go where the single momentary switch is, but I need that momentary switch to switch to lead presets when I use the wah/Whammy pedals. In the future I’m going to add an A/B switch that’ll have both a wireless and this cable plugged into it so I can use whichever without disconnecting anything, or if the wireless goes down live.
I’m giving those solderless pedalboard wiring kits a shot-
It’ll be here tomorrow so I can complete all the actual connections to the board, as well as a low-profile right angle MIDI jack to go to the j-box. I have all these old cables I was going to cut up for it, but I hate soldering so screw it.
Once I’m done wiring it all up I’ll start on the snakes that’ll run to the amp, I only need one but I’ll make a backup or two for shits and giggles, all right angle jacks on one end and straight on the other.
