SHOW OFF YOUR PEDALBOARD!

1774622700424.png


Little bit of a rejig. I could absolutely fit more onto this, but it is actually designed for ergonomics live, just as much as tonal variety.

Volume+Wah. Self explanatory. Polytune connects to the volume pedal for an always on tuner.

After the wah is the DD-500. I really fell in love with this pedal all over again since getting my 4th or 5th one since they launched. I use bank 97 exclusively with Summerisle. Preset A is a standard digital delay. Preset B is an analog delay.

Then into the Nemesis. I do use quite a few sounds on this when jamming at home. But live I just use my first preset, which is an analog delay. I like it because it doesn't go all pitchy when you tap the tempo. The midi clock of the DD-500 feeds the Nemesis so they're always clocked together.

Then into the RV-5, set to Modulate mode.

Then into the Meris MercuryX. This is such a sick reverb pedal. I have 3 presets on this that I use. A huge hall, a kind of shimmery cloud thing, and then another huge supernatural thing, without any shimmer and a bit dark.

Then into the MXR Reverb, and this I am just using for a tiny tiny bit of plate reverb. I only use that for cleans in one song.
 
I'm still trying to figure out my Tone King preamp board. I picked up a Strich Standard 28 board for less than $100, so this is my current plan.

a61edd4b-4aa5-40c2-8c64-ee7fc1674fe0-1_all_8317.png

Top and bottom board images are flipped, so the DC7 is directly beneath the Royalist.

First row (ordered from right to left) go into the Imperial input.

The Imperial will run into the Royalist which will connect to my Badlander preamp for a total of 6 channels.

Top row effects will run in stereo. The Mood and OBNE parting will be routed in a parallel loop on the Wetter Box into the Imperial effects loop.

Graviton M2 directs MIDI for Mood, OBNE, El Capistan, Brothers AM, and both TK preamps. A CME WIDI Thru6 BT adds flexibility for all of the MIDI connections and will send CC messages to a Suhr microMIDI Control box via Bluetooth for changing Badlander channels.

I'm not decided on final output routing. I intend to incorporate the Underfacer stereo ins and outs since it can be reconfigured for stereo or mono simply by pressing a button. I'll need to experiment so the board will work mono and stereo regardless of running direct or with real amps. I hope to also work out a wet/dry configuration.

Lots of fun ahead working on this board.
 
Last edited:
gearJunkie said:
I'm still trying to figure out my Tone King preamp board. I picked up a Strich Standard 28 board for less than $100, so this is my current plan.

View attachment 60797
Top and bottom board images are flipped, so the DC7 is directly beneath the Royalist.

First row (ordered from right to left) go into the Imperial input.

The Imperial will run into the Royalist which will connect to my Badlander preamp for a total of 6 channels.

Top row effects will run in stereo. The Mood and OBNE parting will be routed in a parallel loop on the Wetter Box into the Imperial effects loop.

Graviton M2 directs MIDI for Mood, OBNE, El Capistan, Brothers AM, and both TK preamps. A CME WIDI Thru6 BT adds flexibility for all of the MIDI connections and will send CC messages to a Suhr microMIDI Control box via Bluetooth for changing Badlander channels.

I'm not decided on final output routing. I intend to incorporate the Underfacer stereo ins and outs since it can be reconfigured for stereo or mono simply by pressing a button. I'll need to experiment so the board will work mono and stereo regardless of running direct or with real amps. I hope to also work out a wet/dry configuration.

Lots of fun ahead working on this board.
Click to expand...

That’s gonna be friggin killer. :chef

The Underfacer can do a stereo sum to mono with a button switch?
 
Whizzinby said:
That’s gonna be friggin killer. :chef

The Underfacer can do a stereo sum to mono with a button switch?
Click to expand...

Summing​

The TX Underfacer has two types of summing: Stereo Sum and Split Sum. To access these two modes, use the internal DIP switch to select which mode is best for you.

  1. Stereo Sum – This is the default mode The TX Underfacer ships with. In this mode use stereo effects as normal. When summed, the left and right inputs are merged and the exact same signal is sent to the left and right outputs.
  2. Split sum – Still use stereo effects as normal. When summed, the right input is ignored and the left input is split to both left and right outputs.
 
gearJunkie said:

Summing​

The TX Underfacer has two types of summing: Stereo Sum and Split Sum. To access these two modes, use the internal DIP switch to select which mode is best for you.

  1. Stereo Sum – This is the default mode The TX Underfacer ships with. In this mode use stereo effects as normal. When summed, the left and right inputs are merged and the exact same signal is sent to the left and right outputs.
  2. Split sum – Still use stereo effects as normal. When summed, the right input is ignored and the left input is split to both left and right outputs.
Click to expand...
That's pretty handy!
 
Orvillain said:
That's pretty handy!
Click to expand...
I was lucky to find a slightly used one on Reverb for about half of retail price. It's pricey, but it's a solid road-worthy build in a relatively compact under-the-board package that provides a ton of utility.

Now I'm hoping that the Imperial and Royalist can support my vision. It seems that their stereo effects loops are only true stereo when using the balanced outs. Their "TO AMP RETURN" output jack is a TS mono signal.

If I skip the Imperial's stereo effects return and run them to the Underfacer and then to a pair of amps, I miss out on the Imperial's internal reverb and tremolo, along with the ability to run direct using the "0 watt" power amp and built-in IRs.

I sent an email to Jerry at B.A.D. support asking for guidance.

1. Is it possible to get stereo output (that includes tremolo and reverb) without using the XLR direct outs?

2. Since the "TO AMP RETURN" output is mono, are the left and right return signals summed or is one side simply ignored?

3. Is it possible to use the Imperial "send" to my stereo effects and then split their return to the Imperial left return and the Royalist left return, and then use their respective "TO AMP RETURN" outputs to drive my Filmore and Badlander combos in stereo?
Click to expand...

Hopefully I"ll hear from them by early next week, or I'll just start wiring things up and see if I can make something work. I'm fairly certain that's actually half of the fun of building a new board, so I should simply "shut up, mock up, and play!"

:cheers
 
1774866685928.png


Thinking about going over to two Metro Max boards. Was thinking about what the problems have been and why I was even almost sucked into the Morningstar world in full. I was thinking... I have a biggish board, and I need switching help.

But I don't. I just need to be able to access everything very quickly, and develop the muscle memory. So... if I put my wah and volume on the floor to the side... gets me a comfier foot angle for them anyway. But it also gives me the horizontal space to have everything I need on a single row; which means the big booty boards I have become surplus.

I also want to bring the VP4 into the mix a bit, but only have it in the Mark V's effects loop. So that led me to the idea of putting my amp footswitch and it on a board too. But even there... the reality is .... all I really need is one single long connector cable coming from the DC7+CRUX on my main board, to the VP4. So I wouldn't need a PSU for the 2nd board at all.

This would give me the freedom to position stuff easier on small stages, and still gives me everything I need to get through a set.
 
Orvillain said:
View attachment 60937

Thinking about going over to two Metro Max boards. Was thinking about what the problems have been and why I was even almost sucked into the Morningstar world in full. I was thinking... I have a biggish board, and I need switching help.

But I don't. I just need to be able to access everything very quickly, and develop the muscle memory. So... if I put my wah and volume on the floor to the side... gets me a comfier foot angle for them anyway. But it also gives me the horizontal space to have everything I need on a single row; which means the big booty boards I have become surplus.

I also want to bring the VP4 into the mix a bit, but only have it in the Mark V's effects loop. So that led me to the idea of putting my amp footswitch and it on a board too. But even there... the reality is .... all I really need is one single long connector cable coming from the DC7+CRUX on my main board, to the VP4. So I wouldn't need a PSU for the 2nd board at all.

This would give me the freedom to position stuff easier on small stages, and still gives me everything I need to get through a set.
Click to expand...
Orvillain, putting on those Fred Astaires.
 
Digging through my pedalboard build box of goodies, I found an unopened Fedex envelope from Best-Tronics.

Based on the invoice inside, it appears that in December of 2023 I fell victim to a late night (potentially impaired) shopping spree for patch & power cable build supplies.

Looks like my soldering iron has plans for this weekend.

1000003281.jpg
 
When I added the phase 95 and really got the rotary and wahs dialed in right on the stomp, I finally felt like I could stop shopping for pedals. Not a lot I can’t do with this. But I am still considering slimming down the drive section to make room for a pre drive chorus.

IMG_4677.jpeg
 
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