MannMade Bridge Upgrade for PRS

Jarick

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Decided to bite the bullet and order one of the MannMade replacement tremolos for my 2016 PRS CE-24.

The CE-24 has been my #1 or #2 guitar since I got it in 2018. It's a newer model so it has some compromises compared to a Core model, most notably the bridge/tremolo. The CE guitars (like the S2's) have the same tremolo unit as the SE's, which is a cast steel block and cast bridge and saddles. It functions pretty well and sounds fine, but there are times where strings seem to have a little bit of a buzz or ping at the bridge.

I've heard all kinds of good things about the MannMade replacement tremolos and it's been on my radar for years. I know the holy grail is the one piece bridge but that hasn't been available for many years. I got the 2040 model which has a machined brass block, plate, and saddles. Also has the full size tremolo arm instead of the dinky SE one. Most reports seem to say it helps a bit with sustain and more of a solid tone, but we shall see.
 
Yeah this guitar is a keeper for life so at the very least it's peace of mind. I already changed out the pickups to a set of Suhr Thornbuckers (kept the originals in case I want to swap back). Will likely get it refretted with stainless frets in the next couple years as I've worn them down pretty good. Having a really nice tremolo is really the only other thing I'd want.
 
Bridge is in but I'm not sure it's an improvement or not.

The guitar is way brighter than before, and/or it has a less low end. It sounded almost like a single coil guitar at first. With the old bridge there was a bit of a dull tone to it, almost like the tiniest bit of palm muting, and there was a little bit of give when strumming the strings like a shock absorber. That's all gone, but maybe a little too far in the other direction?

It could be related to setup though. The strings buzzed a fair amount at first even with the action up high. I switched back from 10's to 9's a couple weeks ago and was tweaking the truss rod, so that may be a part of it. I loosened up the truss rod some more and lowered the action and that helped, but there's till buzzing either in the low frets with truss rod tightened or high frets with the truss rod loosened.

Also, the intonation is slightly off, I have the saddles all the way back on a few strings and it's still sharp. That may be related to having the action a little too high. But even with the action a little high the strings are still buzzing on the 12th fret a decent amount.

Lastly, the tremolo bar is super stiff even with the hex screw loosened all the way. I just called the shop and talked to someone, and he said it's likely a tolerance issue with the manufacturing. He gave me John's info and I'll reach out next week when he's back but there's a couple workarounds/fixes they will try (new tremolo bar may be easiest).

On the plus side, the tremolo is quite smooth and when dialed in seems to return to pitch well. The quality is definitely quite high in the machining and finishing.

As of now I'm thinking about finding a good repair place locally to have it checked out for potentially a new nut and fret dressing. The frets have a good amount of wear and I do want to have stainless jumbo frets installed at some point, but maybe not quite yet.
 
Adding extra brass in place of zinc often adds a hollow brightness. It will bed down though and fatten up as the screws get worn in to the new knife edges. It takes a while for a Mann style trem to work together properly even if it does hold tune.
 
Adding extra brass in place of zinc often adds a hollow brightness. It will bed down though and fatten up as the screws get worn in to the new knife edges. It takes a while for a Mann style trem to work together properly even if it does hold tune.

Do you generally like the design or no?
 
Do you generally like the design or no?
Yes and no . It works and I have it on a PRS but the six contact points need to bed together before it works properly. The reason why you need six is the load needs to be distributed or the brass will be chewed up. Once you get the notches lined up you should never touch the screws again. I personally find two post better because you have no alignment Issues and a smaller friction point. Does it work? Yes . Does it sound good?yes . Do I much prefer my Gotoh 510 ? Yes
 
Little update,

I sent an e-mail to John Mann looking for some feedback. I think the bridge might be defective.

The tremolo arm is far too tight in the socket, even with the set screw loosened. And the strings still won't intonate fully on the high strings, even when tightened all the way they are still a bit sharp.

Today I noticed the intonation screws won't turn smoothly and when loosening one the screw came completely away from the bridge while the saddle stayed in place. Even with the strings loosened quite a bit. Looking closer, the saddles are all slightly askew, not lined up straight.

Hopefully I can get a new unit which works better, but this has been a disappointing "upgrade" to this point. Think I'll swap the original unit back on today.
 
Another update, John's going to exchange it, so hopefully a proper one works much better! I did remove the bridge completely, and the intonation screws were still off. It's definitely slightly askew.

Re-installed the old bridge and even with fresh strings it's noticeably warmer (could be fatter or darker/duller depending on your views). Very interesting!
 
I do this upgrade over replacing the bridge on SE’s and S2’s because I like the combination of a steel plate and a brass block and saddles. The brass block adds some sustain and also highs and lows, definitely a fuller sound. Steel block gives more midrange and is snappier sounding in my experience if that is what you are after. I also do the brass blocks from FU on Gotoh 510s and Floyd’s with the same results.

BTW, John Mann is great as well as his wife Roxanne. They will take care of you.
 
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The steel Ts and Tzinc blocks are much better on the 510 and the 1996 has a brass block on it stock. Making it bigger just messes up the eq balance and is seriously detrimental to the mid response . It also hinders to transfer of energy to the body hence the slight increase in sustain at the expense of interaction with the body ie tone.
 
I personally prefer the tone of the USA PRS trem to the Mann. Too much brass in the bridge is not a balanced tone . The mids get scooped and you get a half cocked wha overtone. This ended the oversized brass hardware in the late 70s particularly is there was a fashion for heavy hardwoods which made it worse.
 
I do this upgrade over replacing the bridge on SE’s and S2’s because I like the combination of a steel plate and a brass block and saddles. The brass block adds some sustain and also highs and lows, definitely a fuller sound. Steel block gives more midrange and is snappier sounding in my experience if that is what you are after. I also do the brass blocks from FU on Gotoh 510s and Floyd’s with the same results.

BTW, John Mann is great as well as his wife Roxanne. They will take care of you.

I'm hoping for the best. I had e-mailed him years ago about getting replacement saddles for his adjustable stoptail but he never responded.

I personally prefer the tone of the USA PRS trem to the Mann. Too much brass in the bridge is not a balanced tone . The mids get scooped and you get a half cocked wha overtone. This ended the oversized brass hardware in the late 70s particularly is there was a fashion for heavy hardwoods which made it worse.

It would be interesting to compare. I find the stock bridge a little dull and the Mann was a little bright. If the USA was in the middle that would be perfect. It probably is perfect, PRS makes awesome stuff that I tend to like the sound of.

I did look though, and the PRS bridges are $330+ compared to $225+ for the Mann. Going to try the replacement first.
 
I'm hoping for the best. I had e-mailed him years ago about getting replacement saddles for his adjustable stoptail but he never responded.



It would be interesting to compare. I find the stock bridge a little dull and the Mann was a little bright. If the USA was in the middle that would be perfect. It probably is perfect, PRS makes awesome stuff that I tend to like the sound of.

I did look though, and the PRS bridges are $330+ compared to $225+ for the Mann. Going to try the replacement first.
You can get brass third party blocks for the SE that are decent quality and do improve the tone over the sintered zinc stock one. I generally only have a problem with the tone of sintered zinc . It is dull and quit different sounding to a liquid poured zinc block.
 
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