My unscientific method is to do a null test that are time aligned and volume aligned as best as possible. Then compare the garbage of one null vs the other, the less garbage the better.re: a Null Test
Been doing a bit of reading - always a dangerous thing - and came across an interesting comment in a Y/T Comments section - but I don't know if its correct or not (?)
Just using NAM and Tonex as an example against a real amp.
Is the following right ?
Say NAM Null tests to a real Amp at -40 LUFS
Say Tonex Null Tests against the same real Amp at -37 LUFS
Apparently it is not that straight forward ?
For example, Tonex could reproduce the Frequencies below 50hz and above 18khz not as well and that will account for the lower LUFS Score difference.
However, as these frequencies <50hz and above >18khz are basically irrelevant to a guitar signal, there are actually no effective differences between the 2 .... their conclusion being that a Null test may (?) not be the most correct picture for meaningful accuracy comparison.
Any validity or truth or "accuracy" to this ?
My unscientific method is to do a null test that are time aligned and volume aligned as best as possible. Then compare the garbage of one null vs the other, the less garbage the better.
The result of that has always been the item that’s sounded the best to my ears before I performed the null test.
On things like regular NAM training files vs super input training files it really gets into hair splitting turf and somewhat surpasses my care factor. They’re both so good it’s borderline irrelevant to me.
Bottom line is just don’t buy it for a while right after they release the Mark too just wait like six months or so what’s a big deal I’m sure you guys have other stuff you play withKemper told me in an email that the Player will gain the ability to Profile. I guess they lied?
If it craps out below 50 Hz it is perfectly perceptible (if you have speakers able to reproduce those frequencies and if you listen at a high enough volume), even though our ears have reduced sensitivity in that band, but the k-weighting in the LUFS measurement roughly takes care of that.Their basic point was if the Null tests crap out in the 100hz <-> 8000kz range, chances are its going to actually audibly sound worse for guitar (?) .... but if the Null test craps out at <50hz and above 18k, the is no "perceptible human" even though the Null test scores are less (?)
Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.That’s why you build a board around it. Or a preamp like Friedman, Victory, etc.
On this we agree.Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
What? How so?Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Which would be positively absurd, given the existence of tube preamps, the HX Stomp, Nano Cortex, ToneX, and yes, the KPP. Lots of people also don't want to menu surf to adjust stuff; tweaking a knob for their delay or chorus right there is extremely appealing, especially to technophobes that are new to direct.So… is your point of view that the only worthwhile digital solution is an all-in-one system?
Gotta agree. Unless you have roadies, ditching the pedal board is a primary driver behind all-in-one modelers.Yea, about that.... the idea of buying a digital amp only to supplement it with a pedal board seems like buying a digital camera that needs film to work.
Gotta agree. Unless you have roadies, ditching the pedal board is a primary driver behind all-in-one modelers.
I have yet to find anything that requires an add on pedal. I've visited the lands of Fractal, Line6, and Kemper, and found none of them lacking in that way. Then again, I don't use fuzz effects.